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Thread: Early winchester bedding tips?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    nekshot's Avatar
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    Early winchester bedding tips?

    If I decide to restock a couple older Winchesters that have the stud on barrel is there a hidden secret how to bed these so they shoot the best given the bolt at barrel. I would only do this so the gun can go hunting with out original stock on. It would be better to beat up a new stock(one that I made) than the original in my way of thinking.
    Look twice, shoot once.

  2. #2
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    I have a pre-64 M-70, and that screw in the forend that ends up in the barrel band was once considered an accurizing tool. You just shot it and adjusted the screw to see where it shot best at with regard to the angle of the slot. If you remembered that position, it was no big trick in those days to put it back together very closely like it was before. Some with these guns just remove the screw entirely and free float the barrel and barrel band in the forend. And there's no guarantee of success whichever way you choose. Tuning a rifle is, has always been, and likely will always be, a simple matter of trying and testing various things to see what works best. I love those old M-70's! Slicker'n owl poo! Great old guns, if their barrels are good, and if not, a new barrel and nicely done stock turns them into a VERY desirable hunting rifle!

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    Like Blackwater said-try various things and see what works. I have 2 standard weight M-70's, one shoots best with the barrel completely floated and the forend screw left out. The other won't shoot worth a nickel unless the forend screw is tight. The tighter the screw the better it shoots.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I bedded mine action first the played with shims finding the desired barrel tension that it wanted bedded a pad to the shims and left the stud floating. I didnt want it to act as a recoil lug or disturbing the barrels harmonics. The screw runs at just enough tension now to not loosen or fall out.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Thanks for replies. I found a thread on Beartooth forum addressing this also so I am gonna give it whirl. I was always told if you want to split a stock these will do it!
    Look twice, shoot once.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    Pre '64 model 70 with the screw. Tried it both with and without the screw. Action was glass bedded. Shot best without the screw. When I sold it I taped the screw up and fixed to the barrel.. And told the new owner what the accuracy load was. Met him a few weeks later and liked the load so much never tried the screw. Frank

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy 22cf45's Avatar
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    I have several I've restocked. I didn't even bother to drill the hole for the screw in the new stock. I always glass bed the recoil lug and the area where the tang screw is located. I fully float the barrel except for about 2" just ahead of the recoil lug. They all shoot very well.
    Phil

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master



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    With pressure point bedding and or the stock screw tension if you play with them enough you can get some very good groups. For me the issue is point of impact change as the humidity changes when not free floated. Point of Impact change is something I will not tolerate.

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master
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    If you are dealing with a two piece stock (especially a single shot high wall or low wall) it helps to isolate the fore end, which is necessarily mounted on the barrel from the front face of the receiver. A tiny air gap is all that is necessary and can usually be disguised by the ridge that comes out from the face of the receiver. The ideas is that this keeps the wood from bridging forces across between the harmonics of the barrel and the less mobile receiver.

    Froggie
    "It aint easy being green!"

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