finning on 2 cavity noe mold

[DerekP Houston]

well, usually I can figure out what I'm doing wrong and correct it but this mold has me a bit stumped. After a good run a few months back i finally busted out the 160gr 2 cavity RN mold for another batch. Both cavities are giving me a bit of finning now on the tip, not the base. I've cleaned the vent lines with a bamboo skewer, rubbed them with while hot with a lead ingot to pull any lead off, and can't see anything on them for the life of me.

Any other common problems i should check for? Not pressure casting it, sprue plate is tightened to "thumb pressure" release when casting. everything is filled out nicely, just getting jagged tips on the end. Once it cools off i'll take a close up picture to see if yall can spot anything I missed. Looking down through the sprue plate I can see a definitive line of daylight between the 2 halves.

[farmerjim]

Look with a magnifying glass. I found some lead spots on one of my molds when it started fining. I could not see them with my naked eyes.

[DerekP Houston]

Look with a magnifying glass. I found some lead spots on one of my molds when it started fining. I could not see them with my naked eyes.

Will give that a try, didn't have my glasses on so i couldve missed something.

[DerekP Houston]

hmm still don't see anything, can I safely scrub an aluminum mold with a brass or copper brush or will that cause damage? I've got a mason jar full of bullets that didn't have this issue so at one point it was fine. Don't want to damage it with my cleaning though.

[Strtspdlx]

I've had issues with lead collecting around alignment pins that I couldn't see easily. It may be worth a closer inspection. I'm not familiar with how noe molds are aligned but I'd check pin fitment. If you don't find anything pull the handles and see if the blocks close better with the handles off, just to take the handles out of the equation. If they still don't is look at the alignment pins again. If the gap is even I wouldn't think block war page or debri. Usually debri will give you more light in on area. If it's even if imagine the pins moved from expansion and contraction. Was that filled mason jar from the first time casting or has this mold been used for some time?

[skeettx]

BEFORE you start to work on the mold, please insure your handles are NOT binding on the mold
Mike

[osteodoc08]

Check the handles and alignment pins as suggested. If nothing seen in the vent lines and everything else looks good, give Al a call. He will make it right.

Do NOT scrub that aluminum with brass or copper or stainless or any brush except nylon.

[country gent]

Also check the alighnment pin holes Ive had burrs or a light build up make them bind or stick. On some a little crud changes the way the pins seat. Also run a qutip around edges of cavity and blocks looking for burrs. a rough feeling spot or cotton fibers sticking may indicate fine burrs that get where they shouldnt be.

[DerekP Houston]

hmm I hadn't thought to check the allignment pins, will do that first thing in the morning. Thanks yall for the advice, better to ask a dumb question than ruin a mold.

When I first bought the mold I case ~3 qt size jars full of bullets with no issues, just recently pulled it off the shelf to cast up some more as I'm on my last jar.

[Butchman205]

As with fixing just about anything, it's a process of removing known variables until you arrive at the problem...don't give up on the mould and start scraping on it. NOE is good stuff!

You said you've already checked for small pieces of lead in the vents...and verified the mould is clean.

I'd remove the handles first, to verify they aren't binding some way.
2nd-Check the alignment pins to verify they aren't binding or have some lead or crud in them.

3rd-if there's still an air gap in the mould, look to see which end of the mould the gap is wider. You may have a tiny ding on the edge of the mould...it doesn't take much to hold it off.

If it still wasn't sealing off well, I'd send it to NOE before I started scratching on it...and let them check it out. From what I've heard, and from my experience...they're good folks.


-Butchman

[DerekP Houston]

handles are properly loose and not binding - CHECK

allignment pins are clean and no crud - CHECK

sending mold to NOE for verification - CHECK

If it turns out to be user error I'm fine paying for shipping and him to clean it up. I'd just like to get it back in circulation. Just awaiting a response from my contact form submission now. Even with a magnifying glass I couldn't see any leads chips blocking the mold from closing, and testing today had finning on both cavities.

[Dragonheart]

I would not recommend a brush unless it is a last resort as aluminium scratches very easily.

I remove lead deposits by mixing a one to one ratio of over the counter hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. I usually start out by rubbing lead deposits with a dampened Q-Tip, sometime that is all it takes as the mix will turn the lead deposit into lead oxide. It will show up as a dark spot and may be very small. If the spot is more stubborn I dip the eraser end of a #2 pencil into the mix and rub the spot gently with the dampened eraser, it may take a little rubbing to remove a heavy buildup. This will work on aluminum, brass or steel, but the mix is an oxidizer so it will rust steel, so keep that in mind. The sharpened point of a #2 pencil is also very good for removing small amounts of build up in the cavities and on the edge of the cavities. The pencil lead can also be used to coat a sticking cavity with graphite.

If this does not fix the problem the close the mold and hold it up to the light and see if any light can be seen coming through the halves. If so you may have a warped mold.

[K.O.]

I would not recommend a brush unless it is a last resort as aluminium scratches very easily.

I remove lead deposits by mixing a one to one ratio of over the counter hydrogen peroxide and white vinegar. I usually start out by rubbing lead deposits with a dampened Q-Tip, sometime that is all it takes as the mix will turn the lead deposit into lead oxide. It will show up as a dark spot and may be very small. If the spot is more stubborn I dip the eraser end of a #2 pencil into the mix and rub the spot gently with the dampened eraser, it may take a little rubbing to remove a heavy buildup. This will work on aluminum, brass or steel, but the mix is an oxidizer so it will rust steel, so keep that in mind. The sharpened point of a #2 pencil is also very good for removing small amounts of build up in the cavities and on the edge of the cavities. The pencil lead can also be used to coat a sticking cavity with graphite.

If this does not fix the problem the close the mold and hold it up to the light and see if any light can be seen coming through the halves. If so you may have a warped mold.

I think that combo also will make lead acetate which is more dangerous than lead itself..? iirc...

[Dragonheart]

K.O., Good point, as I remember acetate is made by boiling, but regardless there will be dissolved lead in the discarded solution, if there was any lead there to be removed. As a Certified Lead Inspector/Lead Risk Assessor I can assure everyone lead can be hazardous. The main risk in handling lead is ingesting by mouth or by breathing in lead dust. Since this is a wet procedure and the small quantities involved I would think that anyone that is already taking the precautions in handling lead should be able to do this safely. I personally worry about individuals that believe casting poses no danger at all and are exposing those most susceptible which is children.

[K.O.]

Well they do use lead acetate in Grecian formula here in the states. ... They do use a different formula in Canada and the E.U. where it is banned...

[Smk SHoe]

Not sure if anyone has recommended this yet, but have you tried your smart phone. I have been fighting getting older but my eyes haven't. Harder and harder to see up close, so I take a couple good and close pictures with my phone and can really zoom in to see whats going on. Also works good on checking mint marks on coins.

[Butchman205]

well, usually I can figure out what I'm doing wrong and correct it but this mold has me a bit stumped. After a good run a few months back i finally busted out the 160gr 2 cavity RN mold for another batch. Both cavities are giving me a bit of finning now on the tip, not the base. I've cleaned the vent lines with a bamboo skewer, rubbed them with while hot with a lead ingot to pull any lead off, and can't see anything on them for the life of me.

Any other common problems i should check for? Not pressure casting it, sprue plate is tightened to "thumb pressure" release when casting. everything is filled out nicely, just getting jagged tips on the end. Once it cools off i'll take a close up picture to see if yall can spot anything I missed. Looking down through the sprue plate I can see a definitive line of daylight between the 2 halves.

You need to just get rid of that SORRY NOE mould!!!! They're TERRIBLE!!!

Hit me on a pm with your PayPal address, or send me your home address for a mo...and I'll take that sorry thing off your hands. Might go straight to the recycler with it!!!
(Wink-wink)

-Butchman


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[woodbutcher]

For the same reason that the ole boy went fishing"just for the halibut"check the BOTTOMS of the alignment pin holes for debris of any kind.
Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
Leo

[tomme boy]

Get it up to casting temp and wipe the whole inside of the mould with some bees wax. Yes I said it. Do this a couple times and then clean it with some carb or brake cleaner and try to cast with it. The wax will float off any lead or antimony stuck to the mould. It works