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Thread: Paper patching CJ bullet from .358 to .366

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master 303Guy's Avatar
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    That knurling tool does a fine job. The difficulty mentioned of aligning the subsequent passes could be solved with a grooving tool. Such a tool could be made easily if one has a lathe - which I do. But that knurling sure looks good and can only work well.
    Rest In Peace My Son (01/06/1986 - 14/01/2014)

    ''Assume everything that moves is a human before identifying as otherwise''

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I made my own knurling tool (not fancy but functional) and it works pretty well. It started out life just as you say as a grooving tool. I wanted to make "tumble lube" boolits out of the smooth boolits I get from my push out moulds so made a ribbed/grooved roll using a threading bit to create a rolled microgroove surface looking a lot like the Lee tumble lube boolits. This worked exceptionally well giving as good accuracy as GG boolits.

    I found though that due to lack of grip the grooved roll would slip occasionally ruining a boolit. The more I used the tool the more it happened. Likely the surface roughness from machining smoothing off or filling with lead bits. In the end I decided to go with knurled rolls and that worked too so I stayed with that.

    I've often wondered why the knurled surface isn't more common but I guess just casting GG boolits is easier when a guy is buying a GG mould. For me, I make the smooth moulds so wanted to get better/easier lube than grease cookies or extremely thin tumble lube (this being for bottle neck cartridges).

    Lately I have been thinking of a hybrid roll using very narrow ribs then running a knurl over those to provide some traction on the lead. I like the grooves in some ways better than the knurl.

    Lead Pot:

    Do you knurl up then size back a bit or just set the knurler to produce the size you want and if so how consistent is that?

    Longbow

  3. #23
    Boolit Master Lead pot's Avatar
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    I start low and adjust up till I get the diameter I want if I have a undersized bullet. Once I have the diameter I want I lock it in.
    I also have a Sheldon lathe that I make a lot of stuff with and I can make different knurl patterns or the amount of aggressive I want.
    There is a benefit for putting a knurl on a GG so there is no bare lead in contact with the bore if the rifle has a history of smearing lead.
    A heavy knurl.

    Light knurl.

    Or just changing a cast bullet that starts as a PP diameter to a GG diameter.

    But why mess around changing diameter of bullets when the unchanged proper bullet works as well as these 12 rounds shot with the .50-90 Shiloh with one sight change at 200 yards.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    Tammons, I'd say you're idea has merit. I'm thinking they might benefit from being rolled under a file to rough up their surface a la Ross Siefried's article. I can't think of a reason it wouldn't work just fine. I think grip is what you're looking for rather than diameter changes with file rolling. Let us know the results you get.
    Last edited by yeahbub; 02-07-2017 at 01:16 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check