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Thread: How to remove bead ?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    dagger dog's Avatar
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    How to remove bead ?

    It's a Remington 870 Express, the bead is crimped in the rib with a ring crimp kind of like the primer crimp on military ammo,
    it's not threaded and it turns free, want to install a 6X48 thread tritium bead.

    Any help greatly appreciated !
    "NUTS" A. Clement McAullife

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thats going to be tricky since its spins free you cant simly drill it out. You might try a small pin vise clamed on the ball and pulling while twisting to work it out. If its crimped into a groove it may be hard to remove. A small clamp type bearing puller and light tapping might walk iit out also. A clamp type bearing buller made up to clamp on beads under side and a couple screws may jack it out also.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    I would carefully cut the bead off flush & drill out the stub & the crimp.

    If the remaining factory hole's too large to D/T to secure the new bead, I would enlarge the hole, then D/T the enlarged hole for a machine screw of your choice, cut the machine screw plug flat with the rib top before then D/T-ing it for the new bead's 6-48 shank.

    A touchup with cold blue should cover your tracks.


    .

  4. #4
    Boolit Master




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    I did one before for a hi viz swap out and I grabbed it with some tiny vice grips and just rocked it out. I drilled and then tapped by spinning Chuck by hand while lowering quill.
    You can miss fast & you can miss a lot, but only hits count.

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy


    thegatman's Avatar
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    I used an old drill chuck clamped onto the bead. Gives you more leverage. You can always use the screw method above with Loctite and red rill and tap the whole for a new sight.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    All these seem great ideas, will get back with progress.
    "NUTS" A. Clement McAullife

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Cyanoacrylate superglue is very penetrative, and a drop will probably anchor the bead firmly enough to drill it, at least if you use a succession of drill sizes in a pin-vice, turned by hand. There is probably oil where you will want to get the glue, so leave the muzzle in alcohol for a while first. You will almost certainly not get the hole quite central, which is good for once, as you will end up with a sort of crescent-sectioned tube which you can pick out with a pin. If that sticks in place, less heat than a gun barrel gets will loosen the glue.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    Or hammering the top will probably expand it tight enough to be drillable.

  9. #9
    Boolit Mold
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    I just pop them off with pliers and go. Anything you can get a solid grip with.

    Jeff

    Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    Had some free time to work on my new bead, used a miniature end nipper and it popped right out with minimal damaqe to the surrounding rib, was able to use my chamfer tool to remove the sliver that came up with the old bead, made a bottom tap by grinding the tapered portion of the starting tap to a bottom tap, red Loc-Tite secured it in place.

    Thanks again for the suggestions !
    "NUTS" A. Clement McAullife

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check