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Thread: A Question/New Aluminum Accurate 4 Cavity Mold

  1. #21
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Northwest Ohio
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    14,536
    On multiple cavity mpoulds I ladle pour into I tip the mould front a little lower than the back over the pot and start pouring farthest cavity away. This way any extra over a full spru runs off or into the full cavity. I normally fill the cavities and pour a full ladle of lead letting the excess run back into pot and keep spures and bases hot longer.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    DHDeal's Avatar
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    Aug 2016
    Location
    South Carolina
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    636
    Quote Originally Posted by country gent View Post
    On multiple cavity mpoulds I ladle pour into I tip the mould front a little lower than the back over the pot and start pouring farthest cavity away. This way any extra over a full spru runs off or into the full cavity. I normally fill the cavities and pour a full ladle of lead letting the excess run back into pot and keep spures and bases hot longer.
    I didn't do it that way, but I will for now on. More great information.

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    Northwest Ohio
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    DH, my casting pot holds 130 lbs of alloy ( ussually 20-1) and when we cast its 3 of us sitting around it ladleing into moulds. ( we are older and have some issues so none of us are casting alone this way). I have always ladle cast overfilling the mould as described. When the other 2 seen my bullets and how clean they looked they started doing it that way also. I have even ground shallow troughs in my heavier sprue plates to control the over fill running off. On thiner plates I make a new one from 1/4" gage stock and cut the trough in it. My BPCR bullets are normally around 1 grn spread doing this. I cast 300-365 grn 38s 400-430grn 40s and 400-550 grn 45s. I have cast some of my PP cup based 45 that the machine marks from the insert showed in the bullet bases.

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy gundownunder's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Posts
    254
    I'm with Mold Maker. A soup ladle with a 1/16 hole in the bottom works great on both my 4 cavity Accurate molds and my 4 cavity Mihec mold. The only thing I would watch out for is that the handle is a solid addition to the ladle, because if you buy one of the cheap flimsy ones and the handle falls off, it is going to hurt.
    I use a cast iron dutch oven on a gas ring and that will hold about 40 lb of lead when full. It takes over 1/2 an hour to get up to temp but will then hold a very consistent temp even when I add another ingot to the mix. I preheat my mold by hanging it on the side of the pot while the pot gets up to temp and then I preheat my additional ingots by using them as a heat sink for my mold while the sprue hardens. This system has worked for me for the last 10 years and it's cheaper than electricity as a 20 lb gas bottle goes a loooong way.
    Last edited by gundownunder; 09-26-2016 at 07:49 PM.
    Hard work made me what I am today,
    Broken and broke
    ******************************
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check