Texaco Marfak MP 2 (NLGI 2) lithium greas as lead cast bullet lube

[AJG]

Texaco Marfak MP 2 (NLGI 2) lithium grease as lead cast bullet lube

What you guys think of this? I use this very product for lead cast bullet lube. As far I can tell no signs of leading.

I use this one for lubricating cast lead bullets. Yes it is Texaco Lithium Complex NLGI 2 grease.

here Webpage https://www.chevron.com.br/negocios/...D-5F9BFD4B0475.
Picture:
PDSDetailPage Texaco Marfak MP2 grease.pdf

What do you People think about using this as bullet lube?

[bruce381]

its a grease and too soft and messy for me but would be easy to hand apply I guess, would be a mess in my star tho

[runfiverun]

about 30% of it in a wax would do pretty well.
once it gets hot outside the grease straight or even a higher percentage in a wax will start to throw flyers and open the groups.

[AJG]

Why will this produce Flyers once it gets 40 degrees Celsius outside?

I burned it with an ligther flame and it never catches fire nor melts. It stays how it is and only turns smoky dark (like you smoke your mold with an candle). It does not liquify and does not catch fire. Yes it smokes when Held an flame for a while on it.
When shot it smokes a Little but not excessive.

[Char-Gar]

I don't know about the current product, but 50 years ago, Texaco Marfac grease was used as a bullet lube by many, mixed with beeswax as a bullet lube. A 50/50 mix should work well.

[runfiverun]

it makes flyers by laying down a wet coating in the barrel.
this coating is purged by the next shot.
using it straight would continue the process over and over again with unpredictable results.
mixing it with a wax keeps the mineral oil base in check and only allows a small amount of the oil to be laid down in the barrel.
boolit lube needs stuff like friction, strength, and a thixotropic nature to be successful.

when you see that puff of smoke from your barrel each shot it's from the grease getting blown off the boolit and forward into the barrel by the gas pressure, then the boolit comes along and scrapes it all out.

[sundog]

I've used 50/50 beeswax and Sta-lube. Worked fine in 45 acp, but very smelly and smokey.

[AJG]

I am not sure about that. I can not see any wet coating inside the Barrel.
If the lube blows past the bullet and then the bullet "scrapes it all out" then I have gas blow by and should Experiment leading.

None such ThingI can observe.
The Barrel is dry and only smoky from inside from the powder.

Here 2 Pictures of the S&W SD9VE Barrel front and back from inside. I can not see any leading. 8 shots of cast lead bullets shot through it with Marfak MP2 lube lubed:



What you guys think? is there leading? those crumbles are powder/(lube?) residue.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

If you haven't noticed any fliers, I'd say you are good to go.

You haven't mentioned what accuracy standards you are striving for?
I suspect that any fliers caused by a non-visible layer of Grease in the barrel, will be well within your standards.

[AJG]

If it is not accurate, it is most likely me.

Average pistol defense accuracy 25 meters.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

what size group at 25 meters ?

Generally I shoot pistol at 50 feet (about 15 meters)
when I shoot revolver (off-hand) I like to see 2" 10 shot groups, when I had made a lube that was high in synthetic oil content, I'd get fliers...about every fourth shot was 3" outside of that 2" group.

[AJG]

I did not masure but at 25 meters it may be 3" to 4" Groups.
I develope still a strong flinch.

I am new to casting and so I did not even have a good Chance to test groupings. Till now i tested only reliable Funktion in the pistol. I settle on 3.1 grain of the weaker powder and 3.0 grain of the faster burn powder for the 124 grain TC TL Lee lead cast bullet .356" nominal Diameter.
One disclaimer: The bullets are seated not all straight. I expand the max I can and even than the bullets seat just barely. Some do not seat well (bullet is bigger than the expanded case mouth) and when seated they are forced down and half of the time are not seated straight. I have the Hornady taper crimp with the sleeve seating/crimping die and if fairly straightens out the bullet. But some have an noticeable angle.
I do not care about that since soon arrive my 38 short/Long Colt Lee die set.
Maybe I should Switch to Cowboy Action Die sets.

[victorfox]

AJG I believe you can get beeswax online, in Brazil a bunch of guys sell it, costs about R$ 50 per kg (about US$ 18), there are plenty of good lube recipes mixing grease and beeswax, or paraffin and vaselije, if you want to try something different latter.

I read somewhere you were casting using an aluminum pan... Wow I'd prefer to use a coffee can or something like this instead of aluminum. It's riskier than the can welds failing.

Better yet, my sister in law was throwing away a bunch of old cooking pans and I took them and they are china made teflon coated, but are carbon steel (there was rust inside where the teflon was brushed off with scotch brite pads...



I just cast this beauty on a brick (have no ingot mold) from assorted range laed. It weighed 16.5oz (about 470 grams).

Take care amigo

[AJG]

Glad to hear from you again Victorfox,

The aluminum water kettle has NO welds. It just has rivets on the handle.
No beeswax is not availlable and if for 18 US$ per Kg I would not buy it (too expensive). I want to avoid any more additional work for reloading since it is already much work.
Here a photo of the 124 grain Truncated Cone 9mm Luger Lee lead cast bullet and 7/8 oz lead Lee slug (it somehow is sideways):



The Revolver is the 357 mag Pietta SAA gun, right side on the gun is the own made 9mm Federal Rimmed loaded with bullets above and secon one of the lead cast bullets and then an 9mm Luger loaded with same cast bullet and on the left side is the 7/8 oz Lee drive key slug. Bullets are wrinkled due to probably high Zinc Content and cold kettle neck. Right side Container contains about 150 Lee 124 TC TL .356" lead cast bullets and left side Container contains about 16 Lee 7/8 oz drive key slugs.

[runfiverun]

I'm not trying to dissuade you from what your doing [I understand your circumstances]
I'm just giving you information so if you do see problems pop up you have ideas of where to look to repair them.

[starnbar]

Well when you get done lubing the boolits you can lube the ball joints and ujoints on the drive shaft too.

[AJG]

PROOF NO LEADING IS PRESENT: I just ran a brass brush several times through both Barrels (pistol and Revolver) and NOTHING CAME OUT WHASOEVER on an White paper. The Barrels look cleaner know since the black powder residues are gone but nothing showed up on an White paper. So I may definitively affirm my unsized cast bullets DO NOT LEAD AT ALL.
Seems to be that FortuneCookie45 (on Youtube) has right: cast bullets cast with Lee molds do not Need to be sized. The best sizing does the rear back of the cylinder of an Revolver and the Barrel of an pistol. Obviously the cast bullets must be oversized to at least 0.001" (mine are between .357" and .361" and I shoot them as cast). I do not water quench in order they stay as soft as possible in order to be sized easily by the cylinder/Barrel and to better obturate. They are heavily lubricated with Texaco Marfak MP2 (NLGI 2) Lithium grease and I just scrape off the grease on the base of the lead cast bullet were it touches the powder. I may have heavy Content of Zinc in my bullets but they all weigh about 125 grain. Seating depth of These TC TL bullets is 1.044" below 3.0 grain or 3.1 grain scavenged shotshell powder.
I believe this is a recipe for success for at least my moderate Volumen of Shooting.

[victorfox]

AJG you gave up the black powder project?

Today I went to the range with some black powder loars (generic brand says elefante in the tube not ELEPHANT which is quite good powder) and all the loads were bloopers, no power, only flames at muzzle.

What worked great was the duplex loads with smokeless. I'm shooting my judge with 37gr (a 44-40 case full) of black powder and a 22lr case full of smokeless at the bottom. Made a nice boom, lots of smoke and shoved my hand powerfully (can't chrono).

Earlier attempts at black powder loads gave me similar results and I blamed the primers but seems my black powder sucks (store bought), so duplexing is the way to go for me.

[AJG]

Yes I Kind of gave up with Black Powder.
Mine never worked.
I fill up an 12 ga shotshell with BP (way more than 70 grains in weight) and on top an 7/8 oz Lee drive key slug. It allways goes bang but never has sufficient energy Levels. The slug is heavily dented but does not go through an 1/2" soft Wood. Lack of energy.
And since 12 ga shotshells are relatively inexpensive (0.5 US$ to 0.8 US$ per round) and primers can be bought commercially I just scavenge These shotshells for reloading.

More molds and reloading Equipment is coming and I have to save Money for it since when it arrives it is expensive. I am done with buying reloading Equipment since I have almost all togehter and it has become a bit boring as well but I cut down the costs to about 75%. I will stick with 9mm Luger and 9mm Federak Rimmed/38 Short Colt +P+ (pistol and Revolver).
Talk to you on evening.

[AJG]

I Changed my bullet lube for Animal marker Crayons brand Raidl Raidex made by Hauptner&Herberholz in Germany. They supposed to have <<Crayons based on special waxes and paraffin oil. temperature stability>>.

Here their Webpage: http://www.raidex.de/en/products/ani...ng-sticks.html

I can not see any leading with These. They stay solid till 80 degrees Celsius or 176 degrees Farenheit. They have about an consistensity of an lipstick (they are not hard nor to soft). They are harder than Vaseline and softer than candles (like an lipstick used by humans or like These german Uhu glue sticks).
If I expose them to hot sunshine on an hot Motor Hood they do not seep oils nor do they liquify. I believe this is an perfect Option availlable locally for bullet lubing. I rub the stick into the tumble lube grooves till filled completely and then load them.