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Thread: Bench top thickness for press

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    metricmonkeywrench's Avatar
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    Bench top thickness for press

    I am currently in the process of converting one of our bedrooms into a hobby room, with the wifies approval, where my press will be relocated from the unheated/cooled garage. The construction is rather simple, 2x4 triangle bases will be lag bolted to the wall to the studs hiding under the latt and plaster to avoid "legs" and have a more open feeling. Hopefully in the press area the top plate of the triangle will be a 2x6 to mount the press and double up the angle piece to transfer the force. The top will be secured from underneath and to cleats along the wall to minimize pull out.

    My question now is what thickness/materal should I use where the press is to be mounted if I cannot locate the press at a reinforced brace? The current plan is at leas an inch of particle board and MDF and covered with laminate
    Last edited by metricmonkeywrench; 08-24-2016 at 09:32 PM.

  2. #2
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    LUCKYDAWG13's Avatar
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    I have a 3/4 piece of plywood on top with hardboard over that so it's nice and smooth
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Ole Joe Clarke's Avatar
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    I have a solid core door as a table top, covered with glued on laminate flooring. If I spill something, I just wipe it off. It's about 2" thick give or take 1/4" or so.

    Have a blessed evening,

    Leon

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
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    Really kind of depends on the usage. A swaging press will put a lot more force on a bench than a rock chucker.
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  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My one bench top is 1" ply wood with a aluinum sheet covering it holds up good and looks good. the solidist one is a buther block style from 2/4s on edge glued and doweled together, finding long enough bolts is a problem at times though. 2X4s or 2x6s layed flat make a solid bench top. cut the sides just enough to get square corners with a table saw and done right it will look like one solid piece. A solid bench top is also dependant on the under suppor or frame work under it. Use glue and screws supports and frame it solidly. A box structure under it from 2x4s with a couple cross suports depending on length. Every 12"-18" is good. Again use glue and screws top fasten together at the joints. With a solid frame work underneath the top and a good top it should be rock solid. to help stiffen the angled sides a piece of 1/4"-3/8" plywood cut to match and glued and screwed onto the insides of them will help alot to stiffen them up more also.

  6. #6
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    I make made mine out of 2x8s glued and doweled together and 2x4 cross pieces periodically running crosswise underneath that are connected via carriage bolts to every 2x8. If I have a hole in it from moving something that is mounted to it, all I need to do is create a dutchman or glue a dowel / peg into the hole and cut it off flush on the top and bottom and then sand it.

    A sturdy table for a reloading press is nice to have. Don't scrimp on the materials.

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master OS OK's Avatar
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    Put it together with big screws and glue the joints.
    I did a double laminated top of 3/4" plywood, not pressboard.
    You can router the top edge next to the edge with a 1/2 round bit and catch all the little thing that like to roll off the table.
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  8. #8
    Boolit Buddy MaLar's Avatar
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    I use a solid core door not metal. I put some kind of finish on don't remember what.
    I once used 2X12's for a bench split them suckers. The door has lasted for a decade.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master Ola's Avatar
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    I clued together 3 pcs of 1/2" plywoods and framed it with 2x4's. The bench is quite nice.
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    SISU

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I glued 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood together.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    Glued and screwed two pieces of 3/4 ply together. Once dried, clamped a straight edge to the front, trimmed it even and covered the laminations with an oak 1x2 glue, counter sunkmscrew with caps.

  12. #12
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    Butcher block made with 2x4's and all thread topped with one thickness of 2"x12" held down with construction adhesive and 3.5" deck screws. It doesn't move/flex even for the swage press.
    8500' Wet Mountain Valley, Colorado

  13. #13
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    NavyVet1959's Avatar
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    My bench top made from 2x8s has lasted around 22 years so far. I had originally painted it with an oil based paint, but a few years ago, I sanded it down and used Danish oil on it instead. I have 3 presses mounted on one side and a drill press mounted on the other side.

  14. #14
    Boolit Man kentuckyshooter's Avatar
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    Not to hijack the tread but in also getting ready to build a bench. My plans called for 2x4s to box the top with a 2x4 every 2 foot for a cross brace. I was gonna top it with a sheet of 3/4 plywood. I figured it would be sturdy enough for my needs but after reading what the rest of you have built I don't know if I'm thinking to flimsy. I done for see it ever getting hard shop use but I don't want it splitting out with my single stage. Might go ahead and install the plate I made for the current desk set up I have been running just in case.
    I cast therefor I shoot. Or is it the outher way around?

  15. #15
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    Reloading benches are fairly cheap to make so over engineering them doesn't raise the cost all that much.

    I have a bench with a top made from edge glued 2x6s. The front and back rails are 2x6s and the legs are 4x4s. They are joined using mortise and tenons. The rails have additional supports joining them from front to back offering more support. It is very sturdy. Make sure you get the bench height correct from your height. This will help prevent backaches. I gather many people make them too short.

  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have made several bench tops in my work area, and I have really liked 2 layers of 3/4 MDF. A 3x8 weighs 72 lbs, so I have a bench top that weighs 150 lbs and doesn't change shape. So, if you go to buy a 4x8 sheet (96 lbs) take some help.
    Robert Abbott
    "I don't save money reloading. I just get to shoot more."

  17. #17
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    stay away from the particle board period!Mine is made from 2x12s and is very sturdy,No problems what so ever.
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  18. #18
    In Remembrance
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    My bench is built with 2X6 frame, front to back joists on 12" center. 2X6 on top run length of bench. First layer of 3/4 B&C plywood glued & screwed to 2X6 top. Second layer glued & screwed to first layer with 3 1/2 deck screws. Legs are 4x6 and are secured with 3/8" carage head bolts. Bench is secured to wall studs. Bench is finished with spar varnish. Makes for a stout, good looking 2ft. wide X 8ft. long load bench. My reloading and swaging presses are bolted in place. I have not been able to detect any movement of the bench when using any of the presses including the RCE W-H swaging press.

  19. #19
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    alamogunr's Avatar
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    I built my bench top from 2"+ particle board. Not the kind most are familiar with. This stuff is extremely dense. The glue that binds it had to withstand decades of submersion in hot transformer oil. My 8' bench top weighs over 200 lbs.

    I built it from plans in this book with a few modifications:

    http://tinyurl.com/zjrujfb


    You can get an idea(but not much more) from the picture of the cover.
    John
    W.TN

  20. #20
    Boolit Buddy sirgknight's Avatar
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    All of my frame work was done with 2x4's using decking screws. When it came to the table top I used 3/4" MDF board and covered it with plastic stick-on shelving paper to protect from drink spills, etc. I then placed 2x4 support legs between my presses and the base of my frame-work. By using the support legs I eliminated all movement from the pressure used in raising and lowering the ram arms. My bench has lasted almost 20 years without any repairs or replacements and my presses are just as sturdy as the day the bench was built. Notice the 2x4 mounted directly under the two presses. They do not budge no matter how much pressure I apply upwards or downwards.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 039.jpg   040.jpg  
    Last edited by sirgknight; 08-28-2016 at 10:37 AM.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check