Bench top thickness for press

[Dragonheart]

A good frame is much more important than the decking thickness. I personally recommend using 3/4" plywood and then glue on a cut sheet of 1/2" plywood so you can install T-tracks into the top. The T-tracks are 1/2" thick so they are flush with the top of the plywood. I use a 6" on center spacing for the tracks, which works well for me. I have most of my tools set on 1" oak bases that will slide into a T-track.

So If I want a press, a vice, a lube sizer, a case trimmer, etc. etc. I can simply and quickly slide it in and lock it down. When I am through I unlock and slide it off and my bench top is free for the next project. I have done this for friends so now if someone needs to borrow a tool any of us can simply slide the tool into our tracks as they are all on the same spacing. I glue and screw down my tracks and have never had one loosen.

[OS OK]

You are just...'Bad to the Bone' Rich...when I grow up I wanna be just like you!

"Gooood Morning Katyeee"...charlie

[metricmonkeywrench]

Navyvet, I do much appreciate your (and others) input into what I am doing and did pay heed to the advice concerning particle board use. If you re-read my latest submission the particle board was used on my wifes light duty side that will support nothing more than a sewing machine and glue gun (I have been warned already). To combat the poor strength and potential sagging that particle board demonstrates I glued and screwed a base layer of 5/16 ply down first, then glued and screwed the particle board to the base layer and supports then added the third layer of plywood glued, clamped and nailed to the top of all that. I believe strength wise the 3 layers equate to much more strength than a simple laminated countertop.

For "my" companion bench that the press will be mounted to I will not be using any particle board at all, but rather 3/4 plywood minimum for table top construction.

Dragonheart..Good call on the T-bar may go that route myself for "accessory" mounting instead of a replaceable plate, the press will definitely be a solid mount though. Did you cut a "insert" to go into the slot when not in use to have a smooth top and keep from collecting small parts and tools when the bench is used for other purposes?

[Dragonheart]

The top of the T-tracks are flush with the top of the deck so other than the cut in the 3/4" wide metal tracks the top is completely flat. I use "Woodpecker" knobs that go through my mounting boards and the bolt heads exposed under the mounting board, engages into the tracks. For heavy items like "Ram Checker", "Ram Chucker", "Ram Buster", Rock Chucker, presses, bench vice, etc. I used 4 knobs to lock down, but found later two knobs were all that was needed as they did not move. The 4 knobs do allow for more adjustment as I can extend most of the tools out over the countertop, locking down the rear knobs and then sit comfortably in front of the tool while working.

I have a couple of tall cabinets so I store my tools and install then in a couple of minutes when needed. When not in use my work surface is clear and as my bench is not loaded with tools or full of mounting holes. The tools mounted on the tracks are just as secure as if the bolts went through the top. I do recommend multiple work areas if you have the room because having more than one tool mounted can come in handy

[Silverboolit]

Another thing to consider is the width of the top, especially where the press is mounted. I only went with 16" instead of 24". There is less leverage to move the top down at 16 rather than at 24. It would also be easier on the wall studs and your angle braces. Also, I don't accumulate as much 'stuff' on the top as I did with the 24". Now, I wish that I had gone to 12" rather than 16" in the press area. Just don't need the room behind the press

[Dragonheart]

Since none of my presses are mounted on the edge of the deck I don't have the problem.

[metricmonkeywrench]

Silverboolit, concur, thru luck when constructing the first bench it just worked out that the short leg is 18in out from the wall because of the stud locations in relation to the walls so when mirroring the opposite bench the press section will be the same.

Dragonheart, been looking at the T-tracks online, are yours aluminum and where did you get them and what length screw do you use?

[Dragonheart]

My "Incra"tracks are heavy aluminium purchased from a Rockler store front a number of years ago, but they can be found online. Tracks can be cut to length, but they typically come in 18, 24, 36 and 48 inch lengths. Exposing the factory end looks and works better. It is usually not necessary to go all the way back to the back wall, but if you are fitting in 1/2" plywood it is easier. If you already have a solid deck, a 3/4" router bit and a good straight edge locked or screwed down as a guide will assist in cutting a nice groove for the track. The typical track is 3/4" wide and 1/2" tall.

The 1/4"-20 Woodpecker knobs are large and easy to grasp and tighten. They came from a Woodcrafters Supply Store, but they to can be ordered online; I believe they are 12 for $20. Woodcrafters also carries T-tracks and a little bit of everything else. I used a 6" on center spacing for my tracks and it works for me.

The only tool that took any thought was my Rock Chucker as it was designed to hang over the deck. I just set it up where it is on top of the deck; a steel mount would do the same thing. Mounting boards are salvaged 1" oak stair tread cut offs. See photo.
Attachment 177054

[Wayne Smith]

When you are designing your booksheves or cabinets above your bench make room for your powder scales. This removes them from the bounce and vibration of the bench.

[dudel]

I wouldn't use particle board. No real strength in any direction.

I built mine from 2x12s, then covered it in 3/4" plywood to give it a smooth top. I gave mine a coat of white Krylon to reflect light and brighten up the area. Keep the front overhang (table from frame) as short as you can for mounting the press. That will also reduce flex.

I had a bench like the one the OP is describing. I missed the storage below.

[kmw1954]

I've been following this from the beginning and am still trying to comprehend particle board. Are you all referring to OSB, orientated strand board, or actual particle board?

The top on my bench is a recycled commercial desk top that is 1.125" think and is pressure laminated particle board between two pieces of Formica. I was going to use this as a garage bench top and have had a 600lb pc. of machinery on top of it and it didn't flex at all and it was only supported by saw horses.

[Dragonheart]

The difference is the size and shape of the filler material. Particle board filler is like a course sawdust. Strand board is larger wood strips, both material are bonded together with adhesive at great pressure. These products work well under a laminate surface, but the cannot be directly exposed to moisture. Your laminated deck should not be a problem as it will handle compression if properly supported, as you have already found out. Since it is sandwiched between laminate I don't think you will have any problems with standard reloading procedures.

[tmc-okc]

Kmw, I know what you are talking about on that OLD commercial desk top. I have been using on of these in my shop for about 20 years. That is some tuff stuff. There is NO flex to that stuff. It should work very well. The table top I have is 60" x 30" x 1.25" thick so I believe we are talking apples to apples. There isn't one bit of flex to it. I turned the piece upside down and I have been using it as a cutting table and have not penetrated the Formica one bit. Again NO flex. That is one tuff piece of sandwich of materials.

Ron H

[kmw1954]

The difference is the size and shape of the filler material. Particle board filler is like a course sawdust. Strand board is larger wood strips, both material are bonded together with adhesive at great pressure. These products work well under a laminate surface, but the cannot be directly exposed to moisture. Your laminated deck should not be a problem as it will handle compression if properly supported, as you have already found out. Since it is sandwiched between laminate I don't think you will have any problems with standard reloading procedures.

Having been working with old boats for the past 20 years I am quite familiar with MDO/MDA, OSB, Particle board, Marine grade ply, interior and exterior grade ply, types of veneers, number of veneers, orientation of veneers and lamination. Have also used Aluminum plate, SS plate and composite materials.

Just trying to be clear on what material is being discussed.