How to remove the "flash" from the bottom of bullets.

[dahermit]

Background: I have been casting since about 1965. I started with Lyman single-cavity bullets. Currently, being interested in high production rate due to shooting every day (have my own backyard range), I am using two (that's right, two), Lee six-cavity molds that I fill and empty alternately. One of the cavities (the one in front by the sprue bult), will leave some flash on the bullet.

I have tried tumbling, but the flash just seems to bend over instead of coming off the bullet base. Currently, I sort them out and trim each by hand using a box cutter. However, my volume is so high that I want a faster way to do it.

In as much as I am Powder Coating the bullets, I cannot just leave the flash on.

So, my question is, has anyone found a better way of removing flash and/or excess lead from the bullets? Please note, that I am not asking for ways of keeping the flash from occurring...with Lee molds I have discovered that each has its own characteristics and the cavity that produces flash on top is not likely to be remedied with any simple trick that I have not already tried.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I have one troublesome mold and I use one of these in a battery screwdriver.


http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...8jmqi6h61slib3

[dahermit]

I made something similar out of drill rod when I had access to a machine shop. I still have it, but unforntuately, I made it to fit .30 caliber and my problem is with a .356/9MM mold. I guess I will have to order that device. Thanks, it is just what I was looking for.

[Beagle333]

I use one of those, but I have the manual version. 'Works great.
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...8jmqi6h61slib3

[fredj338]

DOn't get the flash in the first place? spru plate issue?

[RogerDat]

I have both of the NOE cutters, one is great in in small power screwdriver for bulk processing, the manual one for the occasional flash discovered at loading. I also use them for PC flash removal. Work pretty good for that purpose too. Even without flash they can make seating gas checks go smoother.

I have one mold that gives me flash on one of two cavities and I am about ready to try engineer blue to figure out why. Can't see any reason for it.

[John Boy]

spru plate issue?

Normally a loose sprue plate - bullets not hardened, cutting the sprue early or smeared lead on the bottom of the plate due to casting too fast

[44man]

DOn't get the flash in the first place? spru plate issue?

There you have it. You do something wrong to get flash. You dropped out of school too early.

[popper]

I had one of those Lee 6x that would smear the sprue. Found if I changed the pour order I could get it to be minimal. IIRC it was the one away from the pivot that I would pour first then back to the other end. Normal practice is to start at the pivot as it hardens first and needs more umph to cut. THe sprue lever tends to lift the far end. I stick with 4x & 2x moulds for that reason. You could also just not use that hole till you get a NOE tool.

[retread]

Mold top flat, sprueplate flat, everything tight = no flash

[scottfire1957]

Scrape it off with a thumbnail or other tool? Don't use that cavity, or toss 'em back into the pot?

1965. I was 7 years old. Dang.

[44man]

Many posts to lap plates but it does not work.You will make a rocker. When I have a problem only milling will fix it.
I learned to mill the block tops before cutting the cavities and I mill the plates. Don't sand any of those.
A perfect fit will prevent flash but a small one is just a thumbnail.
Cutting molten lead will build up on the plate and mold top. Take a glove and cut before the lead hardens will drive you crazy. They say to lube but it is good for 2 boolits. Gobs of lead stuck to the plate will lift it.

[mdi]

I too, would look at the sprue plate. I'd use some emery cloth and a pane of glass. Put the emery on the glass (it is very flat) and place the sprue plate on it. Keeping the plate flat, move in a circular manner. Check the bottom of the sprue plate for even "honing". Same can be done to the top of the mold blocks...

BTW, which cavity is the flash coming from?

[RogerDat]

Stain the surface of sprue plate and die with this blue die/brush on stain then rub on glass plate with abrasive paste or emery cloth. The blue stain gets rubbed off by the abrasive, high spots show up in sharp relief as the places with the blue gone. Have also used a good new sharpening stone for this as a quick check. Flat enough and mild abrasive side.

https://www.amazon.com/Dykem-80300-S.../dp/B0018ACR6G

My problem child is one cavity with slight damage or radius at the base of the bullet mold cavity. I essentially cast in a flash on that one edge. Need to replace mold when I get around to it but since I touch up the bases for gas checks anyway it seems to work fine for now so replacement gets put off.

For what it is worth I have been at one time or another guilty of all the operator error methods of getting a flash on the base from too fast cutting to out of adjustment sprue plate. I have found it worth my time to just do the abrasive and glass check to make sure the plate is all good before I start, have had some that were less than smooth and flat. Almost like there was a burr or protrusion at the pour opening. Once I know I have a flat plate, and a flat mold it inspires confidence when I adjust the plate pivot screw it will all work.

[stinjie]

Mold top flat, sprueplate flat, everything tight = no flash

what he said ^^^

[Silvercreek Farmer]

Had a Lee 6 cavity mold that produced flash sometimes but not others. Figured it was due to bolt tightness, warped sprue plate, etc. Might be, but I finally realized it depended on how much lead was in the pot. A full pot would produce flash due to the additional head pressure, and a half empty pot would cast beautiful boolits. Easy thing to try before you go removing material.

[Echo]

DOn't get the flash in the first place? spru plate issue?

Absolutely. Fix the mold...

[44man]

When I make my sprue plates I lap with a few strokes to remove the burr from the pour hole and that is ALL. I have had 1 or 2 that did not fit perfect so I tried the glass lapping to make things worse. The plate will be cut at the edges more no matter the pattern you lap and none will be flat. Extensive fooling around has shown it is a poor thing to do. I solve it by putting the plate on my mill. It is the ONLY way to get it flat.
Never lap a mold top either.

[GLynn41]

finger nail clippers - the curve fits the base of most bullets-- best is stop the flash to begin with --if one of starts that and I can not get it stop with flow-- I stop using it and steel wool it, check for screw tightness etc- but the nail clippers work well-and better than box cutter

[45-70 Chevroner]

My first thought was the same as "RogerDat". He must be cutting the sprue too soon. When it happens to me I just scrape off the flash with a pin knife or my thumb nail. I don't often get flashes. By the way this is the first time I have incountered the term flash. I have always called it lead smear. When I read the OP's opening statement I wasn't sure what he was talking about until I read a few of the suggestions.