How Much Did I Just Spend

[ArrowJ]

I took apart my Dad's Smith & Wesson model 49 bodyguard cylinder to clean it for the first time in 25 years. Long story short, I cannot get the cylinder open now. I am sure I did not screw in the one part to the other part correctly (fancy gun smithing terms) and it is now too long to actuate. I may have stripped the threads in there too. I could probably disassemble the entire thing, try to keep screwing in the ejector rod to see if it is stripped and then order parts, but it is not my gun and I have done enough damage already. Assuming the ejector rod does have to be replaced can you provide me with a ballpark estimate of what I just got myself into? I know prices differ I am just looking for something in the neighborhood or even the town.

[44man]

Most ejector rods are left hand thread, which way did you turn it?

[Walkingwolf]

Send it to S&W, they may not charge you anything depending on how old the gun is. The reviews of their bending over backwards from what I have seen are positive.

[ArrowJ]

I did turn it the correct way as I looked it up so I would not make a mistake...that worked out well

I had not thought about sending it to S&W. I may consider that, but I imagine it would be a longer turn around. Thanks guys.

[pietro]

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If you don't want to get back into it, I would suggest you take the gun to a real gunsmith (not some parts-changer).

If you want to get back into it; first see if you've made a mis-step.

S&W caveats:

1) Do not pry off the grips - just loosen the grip screw & tap on the head to loosen the opposite grip, then tap the remaining grip off the gripfame from the inside.

2) NEVER pry up the sideplate, as you will cause irreparable damage. Instead, after removing the sideplate screws(using properly fitting "hollow ground" screwdrivers so you do not destroy the screws), remove the sidepalte via holding the gripframe & tapping the cylinder frame to vibrate the sideplate loose enough to pick out by hand.

(The sideplate screws are fitted, and are not interchangeable, so make sure each one goes back into it's correct hole.)

3) Be careful not to over-extend the hand (pawl) backwards to clear the frame or you will cause the stud on the hand to slip past the spring and the hand/pawl will not properly engage the cylinder ratchet on reassembly.

4) Do not over tighten any screw on reassembly; do not use loctite of any variety when reassembling;do not lose the hammer block when removing the sideplate.

5) Do not allow the rebound spring to fly off into parts unknown, and use the proper tool to replace the rebound and spring into the space in the frame.

6) Do not attempt to disassemble the cylinder without either a proper cylinder disassembly tool or acceptable substitute, remembering to not shear the extractor locator pins by loosening or tightening the center pin without supporting the extractor properly with the specific tool or at least empty cartridges in the charge holes.


For future reference, many firearms, especially those whose lockwork can be easily exposed, do not require a complete dis-assembly for cleaning - as (most times) they can simply be soaked in a good solvent (like kerosene), blown dry & relubricated with a good GUN oil.







.

[ArrowJ]

I followed all of those rules...except one I am near Oglesby and Oglesby and a couple other shops in Springfield Illinois. I will probably take it to one of them. I was really just trying to do my part to keep gunsmiths in business.

I knew the cylinder did not have to be taken apart, but I figured it had not been cleaned in 25-30 years so I would go for it. Stupid.

[osteodoc08]

Live and learn my friend. We've all made mistakes.

[DerekP Houston]

I followed all of those rules...except one I am near Oglesby and Oglesby and a couple other shops in Springfield Illinois. I will probably take it to one of them. I was really just trying to do my part to keep gunsmiths in business.

I knew the cylinder did not have to be taken apart, but I figured it had not been cleaned in 25-30 years so I would go for it. Stupid.

Eh my model 10-10 that was giving me issues turned out to be coated in red locktite =/. Took a combo of pb blaster soaking for a week and a hairdryer to heat up the metal. Runs like a champ now, just a few scratches caused by me. It was only 80% quality when I got it as a trade in, so it is my "practice gun" for repairs/cleaning like this.

4) Do not over tighten any screw on reassembly; do not use loctite of any variety when reassembling;do not lose the hammer block when removing the sideplate.

I wish that was more common knowledge. This one probably hadn't be disassembled since it was reclaimed from the armory at the PD. Black gunk all in the cylinder; soaked it in ATF for a few days and it came out all nice, clean and slick now.

[Piedmont]

If I am understanding this correctly you might have the wrong screw installed at the forward sideplate position. Those screws are not identical.

[Mk42gunner]

If I am understanding this correctly you might have the wrong screw installed at the forward sideplate position. Those screws are not identical.

This makes sense to me. If the forward sideplate screw is too long and bears on the crane, it will prevent the crane from rotating, thus holding the cylinder in a closed position.

It has been a long time since I had a J frame apart, but I used to maintain a whole lot of worn out Model 10 K frames used by the base security force. Usually, if you can get the cylinder closed, the ejector rod isn't too long for it to be opened again.

I'd at least try loosening the front screw and seeing if the cylinder will open.

Robert

[ArrowJ]

I tried loosening the front screw which did not work, but then I just took a pair of pliers and pulled on the pin that the extractor pushes and swung it out. Why I did not do that before I have no idea. I turned the plunger and it tightened a little more. I wrapped it and tried to tighten it a little more with pliers and it would not go. It operates correctly now. I am going to take it to the range tomorrow to make sure it does not loosen up have an RUD. I think I am back in business. Thank you for all the advice!