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Thread: Rolling Block w/ weakened Mainspring

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy Argentino's Avatar
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    Rolling Block w/ weakened Mainspring

    Howdy,

    Iīve bought a ' 66 Rolling Block chambered in .43 Spanish (Argentine Contract).

    Mainspring lost a lot of tension so the hammer will fall weakly over the firing pin (maybe someone kept it cocked for a long, long time-I donīt know for sure).

    Wondering if there is a method of getting it back to its original strength (like quenching it in oil and then tempering, or something like that).

    Does anyone know how to do this? I can also try to make a new one, but I would prefer to fix and use the original instead.

    Thanks,

    Argie.
    "Skill is acquired not alone through practice but through the combination of study and experience" - P. Sharpe

  2. #2
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    44man's Avatar
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    I make a lot of springs and it might work for you. Heat cherry red and quench in oil, I use transmission fluid.
    Now set your lead pot to get to 600° and set it on the lead. Keep at 600 and let it soak for an hour, then fish it out and set on the pot edge to cool down with the pot.
    I have ML mainsprings and frizzen springs going strong after 32 years.
    I have stainless aircraft safety wire I hang them with, takes the heat and leaves no cold spots like pliers will.

  3. #3
    Moderator Emeritus / Trusted loob groove dealer

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    Check to be sure your firing pin isn't broke.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If it was left cocked the spring may have taken a new "set" also. It may take a little reforming of the shape to save it. quenching and drawing back may renew it. Not sure on the type of steel but I would let is soak a little at red hot and quench in oil. Then temper and slow cool. I might even drop pots temp 20* every 10-15 mins to around 300* then shut pot off. An extra lead pot filled with sand would be handy here as part can be submerged and left there thru the cooling process.

  5. #5
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    If any reforming is needed, do it before anything else. No sharp bends or scratches.
    Lay the spring on paper and draw around it. Some springs can be shaped by hand a little, use the paper drawing to compare.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Argentino's Avatar
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    Many thanks for your help, guys.

    Firing pin is sound but hammer gets to firing position under very little pressure and when released it wonīt deliver a blow strong enough to ignite a primer.

    Iīve already disassembled the action and cleaned everything inside so there is no dried grease or something similar that might be slowing down the hammer.

    Iīll compare itīs shape along another original mainspring to bend it gently if needed.

    Oil quenching followed by tempering as described sounds like a very good idea. Iīll give it a try soon.

    Thanks a lot for your help.

    Argie.
    "Skill is acquired not alone through practice but through the combination of study and experience" - P. Sharpe

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    If the spring needs reshaping, I would anneal it first. In my experience it is better to bend annealed spring steel than to try cold bending one that has taken a set.

    Robert

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mk42gunner View Post
    If the spring needs reshaping, I would anneal it first. In my experience it is better to bend annealed spring steel than to try cold bending one that has taken a set.

    Robert
    Yes, good idea. Just heat red and cool slow. I forget a lot and they might have buried the part in lime to cool.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
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    Buy a spring from Lee Shaver. He can probably sell you an original or make you one. He's a great gunsmith and a great guy. He is probably the best single shot rifle guy in the country. Rolling blocks are one of his specialties.
    http://stores.leeshavergunsmithing.com/

  10. #10
    Boolit Master


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    It is a spring that does not work save money and time and get a replacement. Not expensive.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    https://www.dixiegunworks.com/produc...ul8ip9adhetgv2

    I have used several of these. sometimes they are a bit stiff and can be filed down. Best price I have seen lately.

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master pietro's Avatar
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    .

    FWIW, it may be problematic to have a replacement spring shipped to Argentina.....................

    You can do it, Argentino !


    .

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Note no location on his post saying Argentina

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Wondering if there is a method of getting it back to its original strength (like quenching it in oil and then tempering, or something like that).

    Does anyone know how to do this? I can also try to make a new one, but I would prefer to fix and use the original instead.
    Your wasting your time - just buy a replacement ... http://www.rollingblockparts.com/
    Regards
    John

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check