RCBS 35 200 GC sized to 360 (micro groove) and enough IMR4227 for about 1750 fps work really well in both of mine. A fine 150 yard woods rifle.
RCBS 35 200 GC sized to 360 (micro groove) and enough IMR4227 for about 1750 fps work really well in both of mine. A fine 150 yard woods rifle.
A bumble bee is considerable faster than a John Deere tractor
Have an older ballard rifled 336SC coming, that should be here the end of the week or the following Monday (15th same day bear season opens)..
First up is going to be the mold Ranch Dog designed for the Marlin 336 in .35 Rem.
Have a original RCBS and LEE group buy RCBS clone (223 grs.) along with a BRP PP mold to run thru the rifle also..
Powders tried first will be LvR, H335 and H322..
Osteodoc, get the Marlin and join the fun..
Nrut, do you know of anyone that sells that boolit?
Have a 35 whelen n two 35 rems, a 141 pump n a m 336 nearly interchangeable with CB loads in the field.Rcbs 35-200's run bout 1600-1900 fps to find a sweet spot loaded with the largest diameter that will chamber 1-3moa.I use approx 50/50 ww-n-soft water dropped.Have popped many deer,two elk,two bear and I think four antelope 20-175ish yds they all react much the same as being hit with my .338 win.fall down or not no guessing if they are hit or not"mid to high drama".I live in Montana n hunt Idaho,Wyoming and Canada when I canover 90 percent of shots on game in the last 45 years have been well under 200 yds,,,Long range western hunting.All are great CB launchers plinking or on game,,to me anyway.
NOE just ran a run of these molds:
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.p...sort=2a&page=2
Accrate Molds makes one simular or the same:
http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...=36-195R-D.png
edit: I should add the bullet mold I show above in post #42 SC359-190-RF is the regular lube groove design..
The run NOE just made is the original TL design TLC359-190-RF..
I have an old LEE group buy ran by Ranch Dog that is TL ..
I run it both ways, TL or through the lubrasizer for shooting in my .357 Low Wall..
Last edited by Nrut; 08-09-2016 at 08:09 PM.
***UPDATE***
The Marlin that I was going to purchase ended up being sold. There was a Remlin, but the fit and finish was sub par.
As as luck would have it, on the Georgia Outdoor Trader, there was a pre safety Marlin up for sale at a very reasonable price. The only catch was that it had been D&T for a vintage scope mount......but it was straight and had filler screws in it. Went to look at it anyhow and the K serial number code dates it to 1953. it has been well taken care of and while not pristine, I'd say 85+% with some honest bluing wear but otherwise smooth as silk.
cant wait to get my mold in and lob some lead down range.
Picked up a new-to-me yesterday.
Puzzling over how to make it work with paper patched... bound to be a way!
Good Cheer,
Do you have a RCBS .359" 200gr. mold?
If so get a push thru die .001" over your bore dia. (not groove)..
Should be around .351"or smaller depending on your rifle..
Then patch up that bullet "over the ogive" and size the patched bullet so you can barely hand seat in your unsized fired case..
I start the bullet by hand so it is straight in the case and finish off the seating with the seating die..
Fill the case to the base of the bullet with a slower than normal powder so you have some compression so the bullet can't be shoved deeper into the case..
I just received my first Marlin 336SC .35 Rem. (K made in 53 just like osteodoc8's) yesterday..
Today I slowly worked up to 38grs of H335 surplus powder I have under a RCBS 200 (213grs.)
While I was at it I dug up some old 215gr. PP bullets I wrapped several years ago just to see if they would feed thru the 336 without tearing the paper and they fed fine with no tearing except for one bullet I didn't patch high enough over the ogive..
Here is an old thread by McFred PP'ing his Rem. Model 81 Autoloader with the same BRP PP bullet I have..
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-81-Autoloader
Note what the loaded round looks like and that the PP runs up and over the ogive break..
The ones I fed and fired through the Marlin today looke the same as his..
You don't want any lead exposed to the bore, which means forget about PP only as far as the crimp groove as you were asking about on another thread..
I would ship you some of my BRP PP bullets but I live north of the medicine line and I am sure US customs would frown on that..
As you may know BRP has gone out of business but it would be no trick for Tom at Accurate Molds to make you one..
I thought NOE ran a copy of the BRP PP mold, but I didn't see it on their website just now..
My first priority is to work-up loads for the RCBS grease groove and RD TL molds as hunting season starts soon and if I can get those two bullets shot accurately with AC 50/50 I really don't need a PP bullet at .35 Rem velocities..
yet..
Good luck with your new/old .35 Reminton..
I have killed 3 whitetail dear with the Hornady Leverevoloution and experienced no expansion at all. The dear died but they didnt bleed. I was not impressed
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They were factory loads all well under 100 yards. More like 30-65 yards. Used them because I didnt have a cast load worked up yet.
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Mine has put a fair bit of meat in the freezer in years past using the RD boolit. I don't think of it as a particularly powerful round but it has a knack of putting deer and even bigger hogs on the ground NOW.
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Smokeless powder is a passing fad! -Steve Garbe
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Some of my favorite recipes start out with a handful of depleted counterbalance devices.
In the forwhatitsworth department, I'm looking at making a 358156 into an adjustable length .35 Remington boolit by having the SWC nose made bore rider diameter. That's with a WFN business end.
Still working on the idea and figgerin' the chamber dimensions. I don't think there will be any feed issues but have to make up some dummies to simulate the geometry and cycle test.
The two conditions driving the idea are what I've come to refer to as Indiana goofy reg #1.8 (that's a 1.8" maximum allowable case length) and having an adjustable length mold. The .35 has that little bitty short neck that gets even shorter with GR#1.8 so the length adjustment would be in the bore riding portion.
358156 has two crimp grooves so it might be a pretty good place to start.
At this juncture I'm concerned about the rather minuscule lube groove... I'd prefer bigger.
Want to add my thanks for the good info on molds and loads here. Just last week I picked up a Model 14 in .35Rem from my neighbor who is thinning his herd post-retirement before moving to a smaller home in the country. I bought some Hornady ammo to get the brass as much as to have something to shoot in it. The rifling is worn but visible, maybe .25 mm left. I suspect jacketed will not be terribly accurate past 60-70 yards, but I bet some heavy-cast .358's will do the trick.
Bulldogger
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |