I read the entire thread before I noticed it was OLD.
Then I thought about it . The thread was new to me because at the time I didn't have a 650 so I skipped reading it the first time it was up.
This forum has lots of knowledge that people just have to search for.
Don't like being hammered by the Cast Boolits Staff, then don't be a nail.
The rules are simple to follow.
The number of topics posted here would be cut by at least half if folks used the search function and see previously post answers to their questions.
"An ignorant person is one who doesn't know what you have just found out." Will Rogers
That is why I thanked him. Can't get mad at someone digging up the dead when next Wednesday someone else will start another LNL/650 thread (if it takes that long).The number of topics posted here would be cut by at least half if folks used the search function and see previously post answers to their questions.
I don't have a problem with zombie threads. I agree that we are driving in an information circle and that most of the threads are re-runs.
Gentlemen,I'm just about done with this forum or any other. I brought up a post in the process of trying to find another thread that I was looking for. The result is I have people coming out of the wood work with comments that frankly aren't needed. Maybe I'm mistaken but I thought that we were supposed to find a thread that had been started if possible instead of starting a new thread that basically is identicle with a thread already out there. An example are the countless Star sizer problem thread that are out there still trolling.
You are correct and the last four posts also agreed with youMaybe I'm mistaken but I thought that we were supposed to find a thread that had been started if possible instead of starting a new thread
Old and dead threads are only old and dead to those that have read them before. They still hold a wealth of information for those of us seeking help.
6, Don't leave a forum just because there are some grumpy old men looking for something to grump about. They should be appropriately ignored. You didn't do anything wrong.
Thanks for bringing this thread up. I had not read it. Just finished reading every post. Fun read.
I didn't realize this was an old thread until I found where I had posted. Since the time I posted, I've added a few new things to the arsenal and I'd change about a third of the suggestions I had then to others.
I had to cut and paste, but changes in blue below:
I have been fighting these things since I got them. Got set up to run the case trimmer on the press that loads 223. Double feeds cases continually. Did the same on 45 on a different press. Did the same on another press in 308. I am now dead in the water as far as case trimming goes.
This is just an opinion, but after years or reloading and reading reloading forums, I've determined if you want fast trimming, Giraud is the way to go. Anything else is either inefficient or just doesn't work. Send those on the press trimming units back for a refund. For pistol calibers, don't bother trimming unless you're shooting bullseye at 50 yard targets. After some additional experimentation with new/different equipment, today I would recommend keeping the Dillon trimmer and using it for rifle only. When using for rifle, I would recommend sizing/trimming in one pass through the progressive and primer/powder/bullet seat/crimp/etc in a second pass. This is the most efficient way to reload rifle cartridges progressively and reduces the amount of time one's hands touch the brass. Aging hands with arthritis do not like to do as much manual labor. I do see an adjustment issue above that could likely be addressed if the machine was not defective. That said, different people do better with different approaches to mechanics. I do better with Hornady and RCBS progressives that are auto advance. Others do better with Dillon. I would now say buy what fits you and you are the most comfortable with.
Pulled the universal decapper apart 9 times now to straighten the pin. Bent beyond all recognition. My spare is broken of completely. None of these cases are berdan primed.
I generally deprime in an operation by itself, unless I'm full length resizing. in which case I'll resize on the press, then trim off the press, then return to the progressive for powder, bullet seating and crimp if needed. This is generally the best way to handle progressive rifle reloading, for all the reasons you're having trouble with. Today I would deprime on press, full length resize and trim with a trimmer, all on progressive press, then take off press to tumble as needed to remove brass/sizing lube. Then back to press to finish loading.
Dillons warraunty also leaves alot to be desired. By the time I send the bad part in and get it back I am loooking at 2 weeks.
Used to be, they just send out the bad part. For most progressives, it's a good idea to have a couple of spares of "expendable" items likely to break. If I remember right, you're still new to the presses, there is a learning curve and during it, you're going to break parts. I suggest you remove some items and just get the basic progressive going, then add features on as you gain experience with the press. This allows you to focus on tuning the basic press without an overwhelming number of things going at one time This is still very good advice. Keep it simple stupid (KISS) is still a very good/excellent approach to something someone is new at. I'd add to buy spares of what is known as commonly broken by new user parts by asking on forum.
The large Dillon brass polisher is almost worthless. I have to run it two days to get my brass polished. The Lyman Turbo is twice the polisher at 1/3 the price. Brass polisher has been sent back once already.
Sounds like you may be overloading it. Try cutting your quantity of brass in half, then using 1/2 corncorb and 1/2 crushed walnut as a mix. Throw in a capful of Nu Finish car polish with each load of brass and see if things don't improve to the point you'll have enough of a reduction of time between loads you'll end up being more efficient. Or could just be a lemon. Exchange and see if new one works perhaps.
I am going to buy a cement mixer from Harbor Freight. GRRRR!!!!!
I've had one of those things. Resist the urge. HF sometimes doesn't have "gems." grin Today I would suggest reading the reviews on their website before buying. I'd had good success doing that with a chipper and a pressure washer.
Finally, be patient with the progressives you have. I'm a Hornady LnL man, but also have a close friend with a 650. You have good presses and they should do you a good job, but not everything any company makes, including Dillon, is the best. If you're wanting faster reloading, do the resizing by itself, trim off the press with a Giraud and finish the operation back on the press. Still good advice, but I would add that not everyone is the same, we are all different, so find a progressive that fits you and learn how to adjust and operate it correctly.
Take the time to learn the basic press operations before adding other goodies and the likelihood of items breaking will reduce and your learning curve will become less steep at the same time. Nothing like the old KISS principle to get things going. Simplify your operations, then add as you get the basic stuff smoothed out and running good. Speed will come with familiarity and tuning Still true, though I would add enlisting the help of someone local to you that is used to your machine if you're having problems unless it just doesn't make sense to you how it was designed.
Amen, but then what would we read instead of all of the "_____ sucks" threads.Take the time to learn the basic press operations before adding other goodies and the likelihood of items breaking will reduce and your learning curve will become less steep at the same time.
I have 2 of the 650's and never saw this thread before. I for one am glad it was brought up once again. Although I have not had any long term serious problems I did pick up on a couple of tricks and things to watch for.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |