Finishing bare aluminum handwheels

[cheese1566]

I just made new handwheels and spinners for my basic Craftsman 109.21270 lathe.

I would like to leave these as they appear, but will need some kind of clear sealer to keep from oxidizing and keep my hands from turning black when using them.

Any idea's? Clear lacquer, clear spray paint?

I tried home anodizing once but it didnt work. Unsure if it was my power source (converted computer power supply) or the aluminum material.
I dont have any sources close by for commercial anodizing.
Worse comes along, i can lightly sandblast and cerakote. But i only have black at the moment. Maybe sandblast and RustOleum Hammered Silver.
Attachment 173024

[country gent]

Paint will rub off on your hands just about as bad as the bare aluminum will. If there is a shop that does chrome plating near you you might consider having them flash chromed. A light blasting and powder coat heat baked on my be good. If you have the time they could be shipped to a place that does anodizing also.

[Baja_Traveler]

Clear powder coating.

[izzyjoe]

Nice work!

[Ballistics in Scotland]

Heat-shrink Teflon tubing, used for electrical insulation, would be excellent on the little handles if they rotate, and is available in clear, black and sometimes colours. If they don't rotate, I'm not sure it would be smooth enough to avoid blistering the fingers with long use, but your chances would probably be best with the clear kind. It is also available up to 40mm. and perhaps much more, for the edge of small handwheels, and smoothness wouldn't be a problem there.

I bought some on eBay in from China, in the hope that it would be suitable for shrinking onto cast bullets. It isn't consistent enough in thickness for that, but I find lots of uses for it.

[Moleman-]

I'd actually give anodizing another shot or have them chromed. I used a manual battery charger for anodizing and was getting the surface anodized, but the color wasn't taking well or was blotchy until I had a test piece turn out well. Then it was a scramble to figure out what I had done right. Turns out the pieces were drying between the acid stage and dye stage. If they were kept wet between the stages the color took. Had no trouble making the parts surface harden, but it also yellowed slightly if no color was used. Never figured that one out as there is bright aluminum annodizing.

[Calamity Jake]

If you don't mind the wait, I have a local commercial anodizer here, he does all colors including clear.
I think his flat rate charge is $40 no mater how many pieces.
PM if your interested.

[bangerjim]

Powder coating is the only way to go. It is tough and will not wear or chip off if applied and baked properly. We all do boolits on here all the time. And I coat a lot of tool holders and other tools for my machine and wood shops. You can get clear powder, but I much prefer colors! Check with Smoke on here for clear powder. Your best finishes will be with an ESPC gun and not BBDT like so many use for boolits. ESPC gives you a smooth glass-like finish every time.

banger

[sdcitizen]

Cheese, I have some clear powder if you want to lend enough to finish them.