Sprue Plate Lube?

[SgtDog0311]

Just checking. I've got several steel and aluminum molds (several from Accurate). I've never had issues with galding till my last two Accurate molds. Had three others with no issues. These two galded right off and Tom said I ought to be using some lube.

So what kind or lube would any of you suggest?

Welcome any other comments on the topic.

Thanks in advance.

[Moonie]

I believe 2 cycle oil is the normal recommendation, Marine synthetic I believe works best from what I've read. I still have some that Mihec sent with his molds.

[LakeviewBulldog]

I use a full synthetic 2 Stroke motor oil, I think I paid $2.50 for it down at the local auto parts supply house. I've heard good things about snowmobile oil. Just kind of hard to find in Alabama.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use a full synth 2 cycle oil.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...BullPlate-too)

[SgtDog0311]

Thanks Gentlemen... would you guys be casting with aluminum or steel. And do you just put a drop or so and then spread an even covering.

I had one recommendation for Frankford Arsenal Drop-out. I'll have to look that over and see if it might not be the same thing with an aerosol carrier.

[Beagle333]

About every 150 boolits (or whenever you start to see any silver on the bottom of the sprue plate), I will cut the sprue but don't open the mold, and then rub the top of the blocks (with boolits still in the cavities) and the bottom of the sprue plate with a Qtip with some synthetic 2-stroke oil on it. It will remove the silver streaks (which are usually just tin anyway) and then rub the top of the blocks and bottom of the plate with a rough cloth to dry the oil. I use denim or burlap. That will remove enough oil that it won't make your next pour have wrinkles and so then you can open the blocks, drop the boolits, and carry on for another round of casting. You will still have a protective sheen of oil on the surfaces, but you won't be able to see it. You don't want it thick enough to actually be visible.
Be sure to use full synthetic and not the blended oil.

Be sure to wear gloves the whole time. That oil and rag will be really hot. Also, do this quickly and you won't lose the heat in the blocks or the sprue plate and the next pour will be keepers.
Before you start casting, you can put a light coat on the bottom of the sprue plate and wipe off all that you can. It'll transfer some to the blocks when you close the plate. Too much will make wrinkles for just a couple of pours, but it won't ruin your day if you use too much. It'll steam off really fast when you start casting again. It'll take doing it a couple of times to get the timing and amount to apply adjusted to fit you. This works on any block material - aluminum, steel or brass.
Good luck and happy casting!

[reddog81]

I use The Frankford mold release spray. It seems to work OK for this use. I don't use it inside my molds so I might as well use it for something.

[too many things]

Kroil !!!

[farmerjim]

Permatex 80078 anti-seize lubricant, first then 2 cycle oil for the rest of the casting session.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Thanks Gentlemen... would you guys be casting with aluminum or steel. And do you just put a drop or so and then spread an even covering.

I had one recommendation for Frankford Arsenal Drop-out. I'll have to look that over and see if it might not be the same thing with an aerosol carrier.

Any mold (Alum,Brass, steel).
Do not apply a "drop or so"...that's way too much.
read the sticky I linked to above.

[SgtDog0311]

Thank you again All.

JonB, thanks for the redirect. Not sure why I read over that link initially.

Beagle, Good instructions. As good as MikeS' handout posted in Jon's link. Thanks!

[bangerjim]

I get mine at Wal-Mart........2 cycle "blue" engine oil. That little bottle will last you several lifetimes. Works great. Apply with a Q-tip.....NOT drops!!!!! I actually use an old (blunted needle) hypodermic syringe to apply mine.

Works on all the materials used for molds that I have!

[Silverboolit]

I have been using the Liquid Wrench spray dry lube on both the insides of the cavaties as well as the sprue plate. Works well and I don't care if it gets into the cavaties as all it does is lets the boolits drop out easier.

[gpidaho]

I use dielectric grease, available at auto parts stores. A little bit goes a long way and you don't have problems with it migrating into the cavities. Give it a try, it works very well. Gp

[bangerjim]

I have been using the Liquid Wrench spray dry lube on both the insides of the cavaties as well as the sprue plate. Works well and I don't care if it gets into the cavaties as all it does is lets the boolits drop out easier.

LW Dry Lube may be a bit iffy around open flames and heat:

http://www.rscbrands.com/products/msds/L512.PDF

It is mainly heptane and propane. Good combustible fuels.

2 cycle "blue" oil is much safer! And a little oil in mold cavities does NOT cause wrinkles, as mis-stated on here for many years.

[Springfield]

I use some cheap blended 2-stroke Marine oil from the auto parts store. As long as you use a q-tip you never get too much on. I use the same thing in my blackpowder bullet lube. Works well but the best thing is it doesn't build up on the mould like some other lubes.

[John Boy]

So what kind or lube would any of you suggest?

Paraffin and on the pins too

[bangerjim]

How about ear wax?

[alamogunr]

I've got a drawer full of those little bottles that Miha and Swede send with molds. Now I think Swede only includes it if you specify it.

If there was a cheap(really cheap), I would send you some. It does work to prevent smearing on the sprue plate.

[mold maker]

Had a small bottle of Bull Plate (no longer available) for years and finally knocked it to the floor, open. Of corse all I found was an empty bottle and a greasy spot. At the time I had just gotten my first Mihec mold, and it came with a like product. These tiny bottles also are apt to make greasy spots among the spilled tumbling media.
Short story long, on the advice of others here, a trip to the hardware produced a 4 oz bottle of synthetic 2 cycle oil with a much bigger bottom that doesn't spill as easily, and lasts forever. I apply it with an only damp q tip and then remove as much as possible with the dry end. Used on top and bottom of sprue plate and working surfaces of the mold except right around the cavities it does a totally acceptable job and only cost a few bucks.
Did I say it lasts forever? My almost full bottle is over 3 years old, and I've also found many other uses for it.