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Thread: 43 Mauser Dominion

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    43 Mauser Dominion

    Found some of this brass on Facebook.

    not selling. How much is it worth?

    Worth getting more of? Worth paying $1.50 per case?
    Attachment 172579
    Yes, Buffalo Arms has it for $2.xx. When in stock.

    I was planning to anneal the neck. Some have been reloaded.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    This is older Canadian ammo and although I have not used it in .43 mauser, I have heard that it does not stand up well to multiple reloads.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

    Kraschenbirn's Avatar
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    Like previous poster, never worked with the .43 Mauser but, at one time, came into a quantity of Dominion/CIL 8x57. Brass seemed awfully brittle; ever after annealing began getting split necks on 2nd reload.

    Bill
    "I'm not often right but I've never been wrong."

    Jimmy Buffett
    "Scarlet Begonias"

  4. #4
    Boolit Master powderburnerr's Avatar
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    we had some of that ,factory loaded and we split most of them. they split in the head across the primer, I was not impressed with the stuff.
    lover of 74 sharps
    MYWEIGH scale merchant
    " i'll tell the story 10 different ways before I'll lie to you."

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thanks for the info. I have one box - he has another 7 boxes and dies. (I already have dies...).

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy guninhand's Avatar
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    I got pitting on the lens of my glasses from rupture of a Dominion case being shot in a 71/84 Mauser. An other Dominion cases from that period, .455 pistol cases, also seem brittle. I crushed mine.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Guninhand,
    Ugg - thanks for the info. I am getting the idea that I should just stay with new (and better brass). I was kind of hoping for the 'deal' - but safety is a little more important.

    thanks

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    MY 11mm 43 Mauser

    I HAVE A 11mm, 43 MAUSER. WHAT I HAVE CHOSEN TO SHOOT IN IT IS:
    1. THE CASE IS A 45-90 BRASS W/A LARGE RIFLE PRIMER
    2. I USE 33 gr. OF IMR 4198 SMOKELESS POWDER
    3. I PUSH A 340 gr. LEAD PROJECTILE PURCHASED FROM "THE BULLET BARN"
    IT IS VERY ACCURATE.
    I HAVE NEVER SEEN ANOTHER 43 MAUSER LIKE MINE. THE WOOD FOUR ARM DOES NOT GO WAY DOWN THE BARREL, IT APPEARS TO HAVE BEEN SPORTERIZED IN THE "DANZIG ARMERY. SOMETING ELSE THAT IS VERY DIFFERENT ON MINE THAN OTHERS I'VE SEEN IS WHEN THE CHAMBER IS CLOSED. THE BOLT IS NOT STRAIGHT OUT, THE BOLT GOES OUT AND TURNS DOWN.

  9. #9
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    Hi Larry1946, welcome to the castboolits forum! I recently acquired a 71/84 Mauser and was fortunate enough to get 10 previously reloaded Bertram cases with it, but don't know how long they'll last, so I'm looking around for a good source of reliable brass. I've seen where guys are making their own out of several different caliber cartridge cases, but haven't as yet seen .45-90 recommended. Could you elaborate a bit on what you do to make them functional, and how are they working out for you? Thanks.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master



    skeettx's Avatar
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    I want some to go with these
    NRA Benefactor 2004 USAF RET 1971-95

  11. #11
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    If the chamber on your rifle isn't grossly oversized then you might have success with the old Dominion (CIL) .43 Mauser brass. They are probably at least 50 years old and they are "balloon head" cases. They often pull the case heads off in the press if they need very much resizing after fire-forming. Personally for that kind of price I'd pass on them and form some cases from readily available belted magnum cases. I'm in the process of forming some now for my 71/84 rifle using 7mm Rem Mag and .300 Win Mag brass and even if they have a short life or if I destroy a few in the forming process they were all "gifted" brass that cost me nothing to begin with. It requires turning off the magnum belt, annealing the mouth and shoulder, and then re-forming in your .43 Mauser dies and then trimming to correct length. The case head / rim is a bit undersized and may or may not extract in your particular rifle, but that varies from rifle to rifle. (Since I'm just "plinking" with my .43 Mauser if I need to tap them out with a cleaning rod from the muzzle so be it.) You could try forming a few test cases to find out how they perform in your gun and go from there. They might be a bit labour intensive to produce, but again I'm making mine from free brass so it's worth giving it a try ... and if I form 100 rounds it'll be a life-time supply!

    Here's a photo from the article that I saw on converting belted magnum cases into useable .43 Mauser cases. It's what convinced me to give it a try ...

    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy Argentino's Avatar
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    Reverend Al,
    I normally use those magnum cases as well. You might want to try a rubber O- ring placed around the case cannellure to solve the extraction problem. You may need to try a few different o ring sizes before finding one that performs well, but its a simple and effective way of solving that problem. I have also tried adding a #11 steel seeger ring in the cannelure as well (then cutting the ears off with a dremmel tool). Works even better than the o ring trick but tends to rust pretty easily when cleaning the cases and it also somewhat hard on the extractor.
    Hope that helps,
    Argie
    "Skill is acquired not alone through practice but through the combination of study and experience" - P. Sharpe

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check