Making .38 special shotshells?

[Mauser48]

I'm going on a hunting trip this weekend and I want to bring my 357 for snake protection. I have 22lr snakeshot but I feel like a .38 would be way better. I have 700x powder and #8 shot. I'm looking to do this with stuff at the house. I don't want to go get those speer capsules. Any suggestions?

[SWANEEDB]

Have any gas checks?, one over powder, crimp one over shot, work well for those creepy crawers, #9 or 10 is good to go.

[Mauser48]

Unfortunately no. I was thinking maybe 2 grains of 700x, a paper card, Shot up close to the top, another paper card, then some type of glue. Is this unreasonable?

[woodsie57]

I've done it just about the way you're describing, used RedDot powder. Just make sure you use enough of a powder charge to get decent penetration

[Sasquatch-1]

I don't know how it would work, but how about wrapping your shot in tissue paper that is used for gift wrapping. Personally, I think I would just buy a small box of preloaded shells if it's a one time thing.

[Travelor]

Next time out, here is what I recommend.

Here is what works best as the shot does not touch the rifling in the barrel and you get much more shot in the cartridges. https://www.huntingtons.com/store/pr...roductid=17170

I use 2 grains of Bullseye and #12 shot. Heavier charges of powder tend to spread the shot out further. The #12 shot works out to be 102 grains. Number 12 shot is 1250/ounce compared to Number 9 shot being 568/ounce. This load works best in a 2 inch barrel as the longer barrels tend to spend the shot more, thus enlarging the pattern.

Here is a source for #12 shot http://www.midwayusa.com/product/814...t-12-10-lb-bag LIFETIME SUPPLY

I have used this load/gun combination for years. Snakes do not writhe, as they do with #9 shot, but rather just go limp in place. It has never failed me - seems as if the #12 shot just penetrates and kills instantly!

[Ed_Shot]

Heavy paper over-powder and over-shot cards work just fine for 38/357 shot loads. I use a W-mart paper plate and cut the wad on the end grain of a 2x4 block using a 38 or 9MM case (primer removed) as the punch (no need to sharpen). Use a piece of wire to poke the cut wads out of the case. Seat the over-powder wad with the blunt end of a pencil. Seat the over-shot wad so it's just inside the case mouth then crimp the case mouth and put a drop of Elmer's glue on top and spread it around the edge of the case mouth with a toothpick. While the paper over-powder wad definitely saves room for shot, I believe your shell will be much more durable if you use an inverted gas check for the over-shot wad; again using glue as a sealer. I got some Gator Checks to use with 44 Mag and 45 LC shot loads.

Your #8 shot will work fine. The squirrel in my avatar did not complain. I use Bullseye 2.5 gr. in 38 Spl and 3.0 gr for .357 cases. There is little expense in using the supplies you have. How many snakes do you expect to run into? A dozen shot rounds last me a long time. I think you'll find leading is very minimal and a non issue from the occasional use of a shot round to dispatch a varmint.

[JSnover]

I've dribbled candle wax on top of the shot to hold it in but a card with some glue probably would have worked better.

[Mauser48]

Thanks guys good stuff here! Would playing cards be think enough for over powder and shot cards? If not I might have some paper plates. When I put the card over the powder do I just seat it so it stays on top of it? I'm guessing it would be bad t compress it?

[sparky45]

What's your favorite box candy? I'm a Junior Mint fan. The cardboard box is what I use for my shotshells.

[Scharfschuetze]

I've used 38 Special shot loads (41 and 45 ACP too) quite a bit while vermine hunting in the summer.

I'd definitely get the Speer shot capsules if you have time between now and your hunt. If not, I'd order them and use them the next time. As noted above, they well keep the shot from rubbing against the barrel and thus stop any leading from forming when using the shot loads.

Given the revolver's rifling imparting a spin to the shot cloud, patterns open up fairly fast so I use number 9 shot, but 8 shot works well in giving you the densest pattern possible. Some commercial shot loads use number 12 shot.

[Mauser48]

I'm in luck I found paper plates. How does 2.0 grains of 700x sound?

[Outpost75]

I'm in luck I found paper plates. How does 2.0 grains of 700x sound?

3 grains would be MUCH better!

Attachment 172505

[jcren]

I just use foam meat trays for overpowder and primer boxes for over-shot. I set the bullet seater to lightly compress/seat the over-shot card and a light roll crimp locks the card in place. Wax or glue would give extra insurance.

[bedbugbilly]

Just remember .. . . it is far better to "retreat" and fight another day than to charge a snake and not take it out on the first shot!

Lot's of good tips. I've used aluminum gas checks and also thicker cardboard. You can take a spent casing, drill the primer hole out and insert a small threaded machine bolt. Chuck it in a drill press and use it like a rotating cutter to cut them out. If you put the screw in through the casing and use a nut to tighten down against the base, you can then unscrew the nut and use the screw to push them out.

I have also used the Speer shot cylinders but have found that the home made seem to work just as well.

[SWANEEDB]

Unfortunately no. I was thinking maybe 2 grains of 700x, a paper card, Shot up close to the top, another paper card, then some type of glue. Is this unreasonable?

Sure, heavy roll crimp should do fine, may not need glue.

[Mauser48]

Just made some cards. I cut the end off a 38 special case so it would fit in the drill then I sharpened it with a chamfering tool. Time to loaf now!

[country gent]

Poster board, paper plates, a file folder, primer boxes milk carton tablet backs and covers all make good wads. I simply set the over primer wad with a dowel by hand, then dumpthe measured charge of shot into case, A simple dipper can be made and speeds thing up considerably.Hand set the over shot wad and a roll crimp with out the seating stem installed. then candle wax drbbled on seam, or a thick wood/paper glue around seal to seal and provide a little more resistance to aid ignition. I tried making tubes around a mandrel from tracing paper 2 wraps around mandrel end formed and paper glued over end ovf mandrel and cut to length needed. They did work and looked impressive. didnt seem to pattern a whole lot better though. One plus would be to use magnum brass or Max brass cut and sized to fit cylinder to just below face. This gives more room for shot and a heavier shot charge.

[Mk42gunner]

https://www.google.com/url?q=http://...axYaaVCugv4pGg
I like the amount of shot that Geargnasher's method provides over the two gas check method.

I also think #12 shot would work better than anything with 7½ to 9 shot. Pattern density is what you want when going against Mr. No Shoulders. I have killed one fairly large snake with factory CCI .38 shotshells I was not impressed with the performance. This was back when they were loaded with I think 7½ shot. I have had better luck with .22 LR using #12.

Robert

[flounderman]

you want power, rather than shot pattern. you are not shooting across the street and at snake distance, you will have a concentration of shot. I made some using the gas checks. elmers glue will work on the top wad. just cover it and let it harden. I never saw a snake twitch after the first shot. I believe you get more pressure from shot than from a cast bullet. I never tried it, but it should be possible to neck a 357 case down to where it would enter the cylinder all the way if the cylinder was long enough, and use it for shot loads.