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Thread: lanolin and alcohol case lube???

  1. #21
    Boolit Master VHoward's Avatar
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    http://www.ebay.com/itm/LANOLIN-OIL-...item2a30babcd6 I bought 8 ounces of this.
    http://www.goldeagle.com/product/iso...jector-cleaner and a bottle of this at the local auto parts store. It is 99.9% iso alcohol.
    I used 1 ounce of the lanolin = $1.73
    1 bottle of the iso heet = $3.99
    which totals $5.72 for 13 ounces of spray lube.
    I did it in 70 degree weather, did not use heat at all. Just put both in a spay bottle and shook it up to mix. It has not separated and it works just as good as Dillons spray lube which I have a bottle of. Almost looks the same. What I made is darker yellow. I lay a single layer of cases out on a towel, give them a light spray and allow to dry. I do not turn them or tumble them together after spraying, just allow them to dry. Never have had a problem. And mine are ready to size in about 10 minutes, not 1 or 2 hours.

    Dillon spray lube is $8.95 for an 8 ounce bottle

    I've got enough lanolin left to make 7 more bottles of spray lube.

    You choose. Seems economical and easy to me.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master slughammer's Avatar
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    I'm not sure how you guys are cleaning the lanolin off the cases when done; I've found it to be a sticky mess.

    Case Lube
    12oz of 91% isopropyl
    1 bottle of RCBS case lube
    8 marbles

    I put this in a sprayer bottle with the marbles and agitate it every time I use it.(though I'm not sure it needs that). I use either quart or gallon ziploc bags. I spray 2 or 3 squirts in the bag and then add the brass, work it around and dump them into a cookie tin for the small batches or onto a cookie tray for the big batches. (The bag is pressed flat and reused until dirty, then replaced with a new one.) The alcohol flashes off quickly. The lube is distributed evenly. My hands stay clean enough to load a round from start to finish. I've loaded well over 5000 rounds and I probably have 3-4 oz left. Clean off by wiping with a rag or large batches I vibratory tumble with fresh corn cob media.
    Happiness is a couple of 38's and a bucket of ammo.

  3. #23
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    Thirty minutes in the tumbler cleans the lanolin off. I don't use it when making ammo. I only use it during brass prep.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master
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    True Cost of Homemade Case Lubricant

    Having read on forums about users attempting to blend their own case sizing lubricant either to save money or to improve the lubricant, I must say that perhaps we are overlooking the obvious. The actual cost, per ounce, of the available lubricant versus the cost, per ounce, of homemade lubricant.

    Almost to an individual, the referenced and apparently preferred case lube formula sought after is the one produced by Dillon Precision which contains Isopropyl Alcohol and Lanolin. Anyone who has used this lubricant is well aware that it works effectively. Self-formulators seem to gravitate to a 10:1 ratio of Alcohol to Lanolin.

    There is a reason that Dillon uses Isopropyl alcohol in their product. The reason they use Isopropyl Alcohol (C3H8O) instead of Methanol (CH3OH) or Ethanol (C2H6O) is that the evaporation rate of Isopropyl Alcohol is significantly slower than the other two types of alcohols. Methanol or ‘wood alcohol’ evaporates “crazy fast” to quote a chemist friend of mine. Ethanol evaporates slightly slower but you may prefer to drink your ethanol instead of spraying it on cases. Isopropyl Alcohol fits the niche precisely with its low volatility and acceptable evaporation rate – allowing case handling, rolling, and effective surface flow of lubricant to coat the case before the carrier (alcohol) evaporates off.

    Lanolin used should be of the liquid variety to allow for saturation in the carrier solution (alcohol). Those who don’t read the entire posts here will be doomed to repeat the failures of others who did not read the entire post and used normal and readily available Lanolin in its ‘greasy’ state. Liquid Lanolin, while slightly more expensive, allows for ready mixing and will not form precipitate when in solution.

    So having made the decision to reproduce the Dillon formulation using Isopropyl Alcohol and Liquid Lanolin, and using the consensus of the home brewers of a 10:1 formulation (which may not be a Dillon formulation) let’s investigate the cost savings.

    The Dillon Case Lube plus shipping works out to be $1.30/ounce. That’s 8 bottles at 8 ounces of product each for a total of 64 ounces of case lube. Shipping to North Carolina would cost me $11.99. Combined with the product equals $83.59 total. So we have $83.59 divided by 64 ounces for $1.30 per ounce - delivered.

    I purchased 4 bottles of Liquid Lanolin (16 ounces) from PipingRock.com for $5.49 each. With free shipping, the total order was $21.96. The cost of the Liquid Lanolin worked out to be $1.37 an ounce.

    The 99% Isopropyl Alcohol which I ordered through my local chemist was $29.70 for four 16 ounce bottles. This works out to a total of 64 ounces at $0.64 per ounce.

    My total cost for the liquid components of the lubricant (no spray bottle) using 99% Isopropyl Alcohol and Liquid Lanolin (the Dillon Formulation) are $7.77 for 11 ounces of product or $0.70 per ounce.
    (10 ounces Alcohol is $6.40, 1 ounce Lanolin is $1.37)

    Frankly we can see that the home brew using ideal components costs us $0.70 an ounce whereas the Dillon product costs $1.30 per ounce or almost twice the cost of home brew. We are assuming too that the Dillon product is a 10:1 ratio which it probably isn’t.

    Now the larger question looms. Is the 100% savings of a home brew product worth it? I have an 8oz bottle of Dillon Case Lube on the reloading bench I have been using for a few years. I have another in the closet to replace the first bottle when needed. I do not load thousands of rifle cases every year nor are the majority of my handgun calibers run through standard dies. I use carbide Dillon dies on my Dillon 550B progressive which does see a few thousand rounds per year.

    I expect the Dillon Case Lube to last a while and just don’t see the need for 28 ounces of lubricant in the next 10 years. I could have spent $20 bucks on a single bottle of lube from Dillon and saved 30 bucks for something more useful on my reloading bench.

    Another point to ponder is that by patronizing companies like Dillon and “giving” them the $4.00/bottle profit (if it actually is that much), we will continue to receive the EXCELLENT customer service from them we have grown to expect. The last time I called Dillon to get a part for my 550B press, I almost got into an argument with the guy about letting me pay for the part that I BROKE. He absolutely refused and kept quoting Dillon’s “No ********” warranty policy.

    The few extra dollars we spend at Dillon, RCBS, Lyman, Accurate Molds, Lee, and a host of others, allows them to pay Americans to fill American jobs and answer phone calls from a dummy like me with a positively stupid question. It allows companies like Dillon to provide us with “No ********” product warranties to keep us banging out ammo for matches.

    Please keep in mind that unless you use gallons of lubricant every year, and if you are like most of us where 16 ounces will last a decade, our American companies need our support and dollars to keep them healthy and
    viable. If you are using gallons of case lube every year, you may be able to swing a deal with one of the commercial suppliers to get your lube at a reduced cost.

    While researching this piece, I did happen to watch a great video by user GunFun in post #20. His use of the plastic jug with sponges inside of it will save quite a bit of lubricant, either homemade or commercial. That is a GREAT idea and one I will adopt. Even the ‘whippersnappers’ have a good idea every now and again!

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tar Heel View Post

    While researching this piece, I did happen to watch a great video by user GunFun in post #20. His use of the plastic jug with sponges inside of it will save quite a bit of lubricant, either homemade or commercial. That is a GREAT idea and one I will adopt. Even the ‘whippersnappers’ have a good idea every now and again!
    Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  6. #26
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by M-Tecs View Post
    Bag Balm is nothing more than 99.7% Anhydrous lanolin http://www.mws-d.com/images/PDF/7943.pdf Cheaper through Randy
    .
    Yes, I thought John Boy was within his rights to mention it. Anhydrous lanolin isn't far from being a solid, and a bit gooey for skin care by the delicately nurtured. The trouble with hand care products is that we don't know what else is in them. I dare say some are fine, and it isn't as demanding an application as bullet swaging, but I think pure anhydrous lanolin is a better starting point.

    When I was at school lanolin was the big new buzz-word in shampoo and soap commercials, and my geography teacher used to delight in telling the girls that it was extracted from the sewers in Bradford, "capital of the wool world". Personally I still put my faith in STP Oil Treatment, which practically is the old-fashioned case lube. It is horribly adhesive stuff, but I think its effectiveness is worth it, and a large bottle has lasted me about half of forever.

  7. #27
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...made-Case-Lube

  8. #28
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Which thread? GunFun's post does not appear in this thread/
    Here is the video
    https://youtu.be/13iRxKdajAA?list=PL...PYQ3-UwyuETZIt

  9. #29
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    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    enjoyed the video. might have to go find a smaller spray bottle as I'll only be doing 13 oz at a time and don't see need for oversized one--I'm known for being clumsy.

    Heet was less than $2 per bottle at wally world.
    did order liquid lanolin off ebay

    now just waiting on the big brown truck.....
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  10. #30
    Boolit Master VHoward's Avatar
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    And for all those saying you don't save enough to make it worth while. Sometimes it's not about saving money, but doing it yourself. And as I pointed out using the full retail price of the heet, it did come out less than the Dillon spray lube.

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by sghart3578 View Post
    I too went down this path and my conclusion was that the time, money and energy invested was not worth it. It pains me to admit this also because as a caster and reloader I try to be frugal.
    Every time I try to save a buck it ends up costing me 10 and more headaches than I need. I'll swear to myself that next time I won't be so frugal. I spent $4 on a tub of Unique case lube after years of using chapstick simply because I had it in my pocket all the time and I'm starting to think it's being magically filled by elves when I'm not looking. Seems that 4$ will last forever.

  12. #32
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I like the tinkering that comes with casting/reloading. Something about having more to do with it than just buying it off the shelf is inviting even if I only save a few cents.

    Course I grew up hearing, "Eat you green beans, children in Europe are starving."
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  13. #33
    Boolit Buddy
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    Every time I go down this path of concocting my own stuff to save money I either get the formulation wrong and ruining the whole batch ( costing me money ) or I wind up with enough product to last me and 4 buddies the next 26 years. And I am simply out of room for storing all the savings I am getting out of these deals. I already built a 12 x 24 shed to move stuff into to have more room to store more reloading stuff, lead and all my savings.. Now I am beginning to look at these venture a little differently. So instead of saving money on product and building a new shed to store it & other stuff in I am just going to pay the retail price for what I really need realizing I am helping someone else build their shed a dime or two at a time..

    Ron

  14. #34
    Boolit Master


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    not to speak ill of One Shot but lately it really hasn't been that effective in lubing my cases. Either ones in loading blocks that get sprayed from four directions or in a baggie.

    I shake the can and do it what I would call extra long but not doing it for me.

    I'm ready to try this both from something new to tinker with and hopefully a better way to lube my .45 Colt cases
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  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ballistics in Scotland View Post
    Yes, I thought John Boy was within his rights to mention it. Anhydrous lanolin isn't far from being a solid, and a bit gooey for skin care by the delicately nurtured. The trouble with hand care products is that we don't know what else is in them. I dare say some are fine, and it isn't as demanding an application as bullet swaging, but I think pure anhydrous lanolin is a better starting point.

    When I was at school lanolin was the big new buzz-word in shampoo and soap commercials, and my geography teacher used to delight in telling the girls that it was extracted from the sewers in Bradford, "capital of the wool world". Personally I still put my faith in STP Oil Treatment, which practically is the old-fashioned case lube. It is horribly adhesive stuff, but I think its effectiveness is worth it, and a large bottle has lasted me about half of forever.
    Exactly what he said.
    When it's time to fight, you fight like you are the third monkey on the ramp to Noah's Ark.... and brother, it's STARTING TO RAIN!!

  16. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    I'm ready to try this both from something new to tinker with and hopefully a better way to lube my .45 Colt cases
    Lee carbide FL sizing die needs no lube, I have never lubed straight wall pistol cases when using these dies in 30+yrs of reloading. Only rifle cases get lubed here, and after firing they get collet neck sized and don't need lube for that either.
    Got a .22 .30 .32 .357 .38 .40 .41 .44 .45 .480 or .500 S&W cylinder that needs throats honed? 9mm, 10mm/40S&W, 45 ACP pistol barrel that won't "plunk" your handloads? 480 Ruger or 475 Linebaugh cylinder that needs the "step" reamed to 6° 30min chamfer? Click here to send me a PM You can also find me on Facebook Click Here.

  17. #37
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Lee carbide FL sizing die needs no lube, I have never lubed straight wall pistol cases when using these dies in 30+yrs of reloading. Only rifle cases get lubed here, and after firing they get collet neck sized and don't need lube for that either.
    my hat is off to you as you're a stronger guy than I. I like the fact that lube makes it easier to size the brass.
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  18. #38
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by DougGuy View Post
    Ok suppose we actually FIND some Bag Balm, (lol) how to mix it and use it/apply it?
    I got mine from the Vermont Country Store - online and catalog. I don't mind supporting another family business, either.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  19. #39
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    Speaking to the matter of straight walled pistol cases only..........(I don't reload for rifles)

    Carbide dies have eliminated the need to lube cases.

    Best "lube" for pistol cases is the soot, and bullet lube, that's leaked back around the case after they've been fired. Again, I'm speaking of carbide dies.

    Cleaning cases before sizing removes any beneficial soot. Never clean my cases, waste of time. Removing the excess lube squeezed out during the seating process is enough to clean the cases before using the rounds. I pan lube, so there's always some excess lube floating around on the bullets, which has to be removed prior to putting them up in my baggies (YES I USE BAGGIES....cheap, easy, and can fit more rounds in an ammo can)

    BAGGIES ROCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  20. #40
    Boolit Master rondog's Avatar
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    I use the lanolin/Heet homemade stuff, works excellently. Don't remember the ratio, still using the first batch. My lanolin came off eBay, it's a thick paste in a tub, was quite cheap as I recall.

    The spray bottle quickly clogged, now I just dump all the rifle brass in a large plastic tub, pour a little of the lube in my hands and rub it in, then just paw all the cases - stirring and mixing them around. Works great.

    The Heet evaporates quickly and after sizing them all, I just run 'em in the tumbler with fine corncob for a bit. Then they're ready for trimming and all the rest of the fun stuff.

    You could also use cheap cotton gloves, wet them with the lube and go to town on the brass. But bare hands work quite well. Leaves my hands baby-butt soft too!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check