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Thread: lanolin and alcohol case lube???

  1. #61
    Boolit Mold
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    I bought anhydrous Lanolin on line for under $10 for a pound (delivered) - that's enough for about 500 million rounds.
    Lanolin does not dissolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol (as available at any drugstore), but dissolves easily in the cheap and widely available "orange solvent".
    The solution of Lanolin in orange solvent can then mixed with 91% isopropyl alcohol without the Lanolin separating from the solution.
    The ratios I used is 1:10 lanolin to orange solvent and 1:10 lanolin solution to isopropyl alcohol.
    Make sure the solvents fully evaporate before sizing - the solvents kill Lanolin's lubricity and cases may get stuck in the die.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master



    BrassMagnet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ici View Post
    I bought anhydrous Lanolin on line for under $10 for a pound (delivered) - that's enough for about 500 million rounds.
    Lanolin does not dissolve in 91% isopropyl alcohol (as available at any drugstore), but dissolves easily in the cheap and widely available "orange solvent".
    The solution of Lanolin in orange solvent can then mixed with 91% isopropyl alcohol without the Lanolin separating from the solution.
    The ratios I used is 1:10 lanolin to orange solvent and 1:10 lanolin solution to isopropyl alcohol.
    Make sure the solvents fully evaporate before sizing - the solvents kill Lanolin's lubricity and cases may get stuck in the die.
    Paint and hardware stores sell 99+% alcohol.

  3. #63
    Boolit Bub
    Honestly Evil's Avatar
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    I tend to use the Iso Alch and fill a squirt bottle. I then use one whole tube of Lee lube. So far after a couple 100k cases for 45 i have had zero issues for running the brass through my Dillon 1050s after using the Case Pro for roll sizing first.

    Does anyone have better success with something cheaper for lube?
    ADAM HERBERGER

    Central Jersey Rifle and Pistol Club Member

  4. #64
    Boolit Buddy
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    I use a 12oz bottle of iso heat with one oz liquid lanolin.
    Quote Originally Posted by Honestly Evil View Post
    I tend to use the Iso Alch and fill a squirt bottle. I then use one whole tube of Lee lube. So far after a couple 100k cases for 45 i have had zero issues for running the brass through my Dillon 1050s after using the Case Pro for roll sizing first.

    Does anyone have better success with something cheaper for lube?
    Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

  5. #65
    Boolit Master



    Crash_Corrigan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Walter Laich View Post
    now if I could just use my butt to lube my wife couldn't tell me from the baby--butt-wise at least
    That partial phrase "from my...…..wife" just rings somewhat out of kilter to my ears. All I know is that if a certain supremely criticized ex business tycoon said the above it would bandied about the world for weeks as a denigrating statement about women and he would be vilified again and again on the late night TV shows.

    As for myself I bought a half dozen cans of One Shot over the past few years. They have a way of escaping from my view and I hafta buy another can....then I find the first can. I use the baggie method and dump a buncha deprimed and cleaned cases into the bag etc.

    Although most of my dies are carbide the lubrication makes the sizing and expanding of the case mouth (Dillon powder dies seem to hang up on the up stroke) a lot easier. Long ago I learned to gently work over the business end of those Dillon expansion parts of their powder dies with a crocus cloth and some French Polish goop. When the reloading process is completed and the loaded cartridges are in the blue bin I dump them out onto a Turkish towel and spread them out with another and clean off the excess lube.

    This is the final exam for these students, now they are ready to be stored in boxes and bags and take their rightful place as the backbone of our wonderful sport. At this point I check them out and from time to find I find a student lacking and it's back to basic for this little guy for retraining. Powder leaking from a priming hole missing a primer is a major cause for failure and since I stopped using a Lee Progressive press in '97 and went down the road of blue kool aid it is a thankfully infrequent situation. Also my students suffered from upside down primers with Lee presses and also with a blue press until I modified my Dillon 550 with a roller bearing on the priming shuttle. It is so frustrating to have done all the steps correctly and produce a high quality and consistent performing cartridge only to find that the primerface has gone to the dark side and you are looking a the area of the primer which is never displayed naked to the public normally. It can destroy reputations and rapidly dimish the offensive capabilities of the unknowing user to his peril unless he/she is using a revolver where just another stroke of the trigger brings a new graduate student into the fray. Using one of those hammerless polymer wonder semi-autos would require a rack sweep and dump and hope for more time routine that is sadly very seldom taught and somewhat difficult to perform under stress. Another triumph for the Old School of old cops and their trusty and somewhat underpowered .38 Special Smith and Colt revolters that got the job done from 1900 to about 1983 or so when a certain Austrian firearm hit our shores and took over the scene in the law enforcement genre.

    Packing a decent revolter, like a Smith or a Ruger double action would inspire more confidence than having to depend on the quality of the ammo in a Browning Hi Power or a Sig Sauer SP2022 for those life or death social situations into which we could be thrust without warning. This is another reason why I always have a powder checker die to insure the proper level of propellant when assembling my own ammo. Although packing a less far less capacity the basic revolter is less troublesome and more dependable during the crunch of armed combat than the high tech and more complicated semi.

    That is just my two cents based on 5 situations over 23 years of using both platforms in NYC and New Mexico during my LEO career. Dependability and boolit placement triumphs over capacity and speed of reloading as I only once had to fire more than 6 rounds at an opponent/opponents from '64 to '91.

    Take your own path.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

  6. #66
    Boolit Buddy
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    I'v been using " Murphy's Oil Soap " the last few years ,, slosh it around in the bottle ( plastic ) stick your finger in the neck wipe on case's ,,yup ! to much will cause dents ,, use it to reform 45-70's down to 40-60's , after ," after " I trim to size and anneal the neck's , wipe on the MPoS reform ,, slick as snot .Give it a try if it don't suit y'a give to the little wife for the house cleaning .

    coffee's ready ,, Hootmix .

  7. #67
    Boolit Master
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    I ordered liquid lanolin on line and mix 2 oz per 12 oz 91% alc from Wally World. Been on same squirt bottle for about 2 years, you have to let it flash off at least 5-10 minutes or they will stick and there is no joy then.

  8. #68
    Boolit Buddy
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    The red bottle of "Heat" sold at auto parts stores is 99% isopropyl alcohol, it is what I use--works fine with lanolin.

  9. #69
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bama View Post
    The red bottle of "Heat" sold at auto parts stores is 99% isopropyl alcohol, it is what I use--works fine with lanolin.
    That's what I use and have no complaints.

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
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    I use the red bottle of HEAT with lanolin in a squirt bottle , but find I must set the plastic bottle in warm water before using it to keep the lanolin mixed , and the pump working .

  11. #71
    Boolit Master slim1836's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by toallmy View Post
    I use the red bottle of HEAT with lanolin in a squirt bottle , but find I must set the plastic bottle in warm water before using it to keep the lanolin mixed , and the pump working .
    I have never had that issue. Refer to my post #3 and follow the link. If you mixed your Heat and lanolin per the video,, all you have to do is shake the bottle to mix it up prior to using. Sounds like you may have used too much lanolin or did not use 99% alcohol.

    Slim
    JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.

  12. #72
    Boolit Master
    toallmy's Avatar
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    I am using a solid lanolin not a liquid that I purchased here from a nice member to use in home made boolit lube , case lube , and spray case lube so I can't complain about it - there is a lot in a pound of lanolin .

  13. #73
    Boolit Grand Master


    GregLaROCHE's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slim1836 View Post
    This video is good as far as the lube is concerned. I don’t like the tumble method, because you don’t get that much lube inside the case to lube the neck. I prefer to spray the cases standing up so lube gets inside the necks. Also I deprime my brass before I clean it and size it after. Just my way of doing it.

  14. #74
    Boolit Buddy
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    Is it not 2018?

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06WG...b8L&ref=plSrch

    https://www.amazon.com/Swan-M314-Iso...IHL&ref=plSrch

    Mix 10-1. Put in spray bottle. Dont drive all over town. Live happy.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check