Anyone using the NOE 452-230 Large HP Mold?

[Possum Lickaa]

I am considering adding this mold to my budding collection. My only concern is the very small bearing surface left on the nose of the boolit after that big .25 Hollow Cavity comes out. Due to the relatively low velocity of the .45 ACP 230 gr, I am expecting to use a relatively soft alloy in order to get good expansion. I am afraid of deforming the nose during seating. Does anyone have any experience with this mold, or similar molds.

I can't really say I have any particular use for this boolit in mind, just seems like a fun toy to have.

[luky-dude]

No deforming at all here--I also have a different over size powder funnel in my 650

[SWANEEDB]

No problem at all, drops about 250 without the pins, favorite in our 45 colt.

[376Steyr]

I cast a bunch of them using "isotope" lead, sized them with a Star, and loaded them without more than a slight ring on the noses. They feed great in my Colt with GI-style magazines.

[Possum Lickaa]

Thanks for the quick replies guys!

[Possum Lickaa]

I cast a bunch of them using "isotope" lead, sized them with a Star, and loaded them without more than a slight ring on the noses. They feed great in my Colt with GI-style magazines.

"Isotope Lead"?

[Possum Lickaa]

"Isotope Lead"?

Is that "Boolit Speak" for Pure? Im new here and still catching on.

[376Steyr]

"Isotope" lead is smelted from medical isotope storage containers. It has, IIRC, 2.5% antimony and 1% tin, so it is harder than pure lead and softer than clip on wheel weights. I add a touch of tin to it as I cast to help with fill out. It is a dandy alloy for hollow point handgun bullets.

[Possum Lickaa]

"Isotope" lead is smelted from medical isotope storage containers. It has, IIRC, 2.5% antimony and 1% tin, so it is harder than pure lead and softer than clip on wheel weights. I add a touch of tin to it as I cast to help with fill out. It is a dandy alloy for hollow point handgun bullets.

Sounds nice. I am thinking along the same lines with my alloy. Going to start with a 2-1 ratio of Pure to COWW, and build from there (may need to toss a little Sn into the mix as well). I'm aiming to get the softest alloy that will still hold together and not cause leading. I'm thinking I should be able to go pretty soft with .45acp velocities.

[mold maker]

A ring imprint on the exposed nose will only be a problem if not concentric or large. You're going to love the boolits that mold produces.

[Possum Lickaa]

A ring imprint on the exposed nose will only be a problem if not concentric or large. You're going to love the boolits that mold produces.

Oh... I'm sure I will! I have a brass NOE 359-175 RFN, and it is fantastic. Took a little getting used to because I am new to this, and learned with an aluminum Lee mold. But once I got the hang of it... Wow!

[jmsj]

Sounds nice. I am thinking along the same lines with my alloy. Going to start with a 2-1 ratio of Pure to COWW, and build from there (may need to toss a little Sn into the mix as well). I'm aiming to get the softest alloy that will still hold together and not cause leading. I'm thinking I should be able to go pretty soft with .45acp velocities.

I posted this a while back
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ansion-results
I have been using this bullet in 45 Colt as my "light" bullet with great results.
Good luck, jmsj

[rintinglen]

The boolit in question is the the one on the right, IIRC. Note the 22 short, disappearing in the cavity so that the bullet can no longer be seen from the side. That, my friends, is a hollow point.
The other cartridges are a 9mm and 38 both loaded with an NOE 135 grain HP that actually weighs about 125 grains. It is 135 grains when cast with the alternate, flush nose, designed pins.

[Budzilla 19]

I just purchased this mold from NOE and boy, do I have some learning to do!!! I can't seem to get it to throw perfect HP's every time! Tried it hotter, colder, slower pace faster pace, I'm at a loss. Sometimes the pins will move but not the boolit itself so the hp is oblong now! Sometimes the hp hangs on the pins, then falls off by itself,sometimes I have to tap the mold handle bolt gently, sometimes when I open it, all fall off like magic! Break in as advised, just a little learning curve I guess, 50% rejection rate now. I'm not giving up on it just yet, as I suppose it's operator error ! Lol, it's ALWAYS the operator!! ANY advice is greatly appreciated! Thank you. ( alloy is ww-3%SN)

[GSaltzman]

Those hollow point molds need to be run a little hotter. You need to preheat them well on a hot plate before casting. I also run my alloy temp a little higher. I'm ladle casting so I try to keep it no higher than 720. Also speed up your pace a little. Those pins will cool off too much if you do not cast fast enough. Sometimes you may need to loosen the screw that holds the pins in place on the bottom of the mold. That will allow the pins to pivot freely. When my hp molds from NOE are up to temp they cast nice. You may still have to tap a little to knock em loose but not hard.

[C. Latch]

Polish the HP pins if they don't drop easily.

As for the bullet itself, yeah, when you cast them soft with the big HP you'll see a bit of deformation from the feedramps of some pistols. I can't say if that will apply to yours or not. But the bullet itself feeds great and I shoot a lot of them, not because I need a lot of HPs but because I like the mold.

[376Steyr]

In everybody's experience, the HP pins need to be hot. I'd suggest cranking up the lead temp, casting as quick as you can until the bullets are well frosted and the sprue smears (tossing these castings into the reject pile) and then throttling back on the temp and casting rate. I assume you are rolling the mould upside down before you open it to let the bullets dangle from the pins.

Other tricks: Make sure the pins are free to slide in their grooves, they may be binding. Try putting the slightest trace of sprueplate lube on the pins. Smoke the cavities and pins with kitchen matches. You can also spin the pins in a drill and polish them up with fine abrasive.
Also, if a casting session isn't going well; stop, shut everything down, and try again the next day. I think this gives the mould a chance to oxidize a little bit.
Casting is one of those things that it takes practice to master. Moving up from casting solids to hollow points is like going from the JV to the varsity team. Don't get discouraged.

[reddog81]

I was casting some of the exact same bullets earlier today for the first time but mine is the small HP. I noticed that the bullets released better with a slightly hotter than normal temp. At the beginning of the session I was having terrible problem with the lead stream being very inconsistent. I had had to stop and re-adjust the spout handle to get a steady stream. This had a huge impact on the bullet quality.

[Budzilla 19]

After I posted my thoughts earlier, I went back to try again!! Got that sucker smoking hot, maybe too much but it cast a little better! I truly appreciate the advice from all of you in this matter !! When I get it lined out, I'll post some pics for sure!! And yes, that is a huge hp!! Powder coat and let er rip!!! Thanks , guys!!

[Loudy13]

I used this same mold for the first time this weekend. After seasoning it (heating it up and letting it cool) 3 times I decided to give it a try. I smoked the mold with a butane lighter as the manufacture suggests warmed the mold and it worked well after about the 3rd pour. I did have a few that stuck to the pins but if I poured steady and kept it warm it seem to fall right off when tapped open. Cast about 400 useable bullets and about 75-100 that ended up going back in the pot. I think with more use it will only get better and I wont have to smoke it at all. Love this mold and will have a hard time going back to my other molds.