Springer break in question

[hoosierlogger]

Since I am laid up by my recent injuries I bought another air rifle. This is a beeman silver Kodak with the .177 and .22 barrels. Since the lady at beeman couldn't figure out what I was asking.... My question is when you shoot 200+ pellets thru it to break it in, is that to break in the barrel, or to get all of the oil out of its air chamber?
i shot 80 old lead .177 miscellaneous pellets today. Just don't want to waste 200+ pellets of each caliber. I plan on using the .22 barrel almost exclusively on this one. My gamo is .177

[turtlezx]

good ??? i dont understand this whole breakin thing

[hoosierlogger]

As I understand it, the object is to get the oils used in the assembly process to "diesel" out. The erratic pressures caused by combustion of the oils causes fliers. Shooting a bunch of pellets supposedly Eleminates this problem resulting in greater accuracy.

[MT Chambers]

My TX200 shot exactly the same on the first shot as it does now, no break in, no dieseling, and it drives tacks.

[hoosierlogger]

Mine are both sprinters. Yours is a lot more rifle than my Wally World ones.

[DougGuy]

It will also give the spring time to take a "set" which it will do fairly soon after you start using it. I'd leave it cocked overnight a couple of times a week for the first 2-3 weeks.

[hoosierlogger]

I'll try that Doug! I want a pcp rifle, but these springers will do for now. I thought they are a suitable replacement for the elusive .22lr. I cans stand to shoot all mine up knowing I can't replace it when I want. Lead pellets are lying every where.

[cbashooter]

I find it takes a tin of shoot and clean until the diesel ING stops coating the bore with crud.if you have the ability to take it down you can clean it up and lube it correctly.many have thick lube all over.air rifle headquarters sells a lube set that's nice but honda 70 works good too. Once you're comfortable taking down spring rifles and deburring and lubing them you'll never shoot one without doing it. it generally makes a difference on the cheaper guns with tje smoothness..but even the high-end German and English stuff it helps

[hoosierlogger]

I've read about deburring them. Haven't seen any exact instructions on how to do it though. Kind of afraid to take something apart that I know nothing about. One guy mentioned a spring compressor?

[Black Beard]

Take it apart, polish all the working surfaces. Details here:

http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ing-Gun-Tuning

The Beeman Kodiak is the same as a Webley Patriot (Hatsan 125?) and will probably need a spring compressor to safely take it apart and assemble. You can make one from a large G clamp and some timber.

[hoosierlogger]

Awesome thanks Blackbeard!! Now I need to start gathering supplies.

[HollowPoint]

I think there might be some sort of formal "Break In" procedure for air guns but, all I've ever done was un-box them when I got them home, load them up and start shooting them.

On my air guns I do dismantle them after the first long shooting session but this is mainly just to see what makes them tick or to see where I can make some improvements. If I see areas that could use some polishing or de-burring, I take care of that while I have them apart but, as far as a formal "Break In" procedure, Na; maybe if it were a center fire I would but even then I just shoot them. Generally speaking, my air guns get "Broken In" wether I'm making a conscious effort to do so or not.

HollowPoint

[victorfox]

You don't need that many pellets. Every gun is different. The more powerful usually burns all the oils more quickly. Breakin in also is quite necessary for the piston seal to acomodate to chamber. I advise against disassembling it if you praise the warranty. However this seems to be a less expensive model and if anything is worng usually is cheaper to fix it yourself than having it fixed under warranty (shipping costs whatever)

If as Black Beard pointed the Kodiak is the same as the Webley Patriot, then yes, it's a Hatsan 125. It should be clean of any oils in about 10 shots... LOL these Hatsans are devilishly powerful airguns, I wish they were cheaper when I bought my .22.

The barrel itself don't need any breaking in. Sometimes not even cleaning... I've been running patches with kerosene in my barrels for the last 4 years (since I bought then that is) and they shoot great.

Watch closely the stock screws these can loose over a few shots, ruining accuracy and risking stock breakage among other problems.

Use silicone oil inside the chamber if you decide to disassemble and hone the stuff. Outside the chamber (behind the piston where it meets spring) you can apply moly grease liberally. Sometimes the piston and spring gets dry and "honk" when you cock the gun,

[Crank]

WHOA ALL STOP!!!! Never leave a spring piston airgun cocked for more than the time it takes to load and fire, the spring will not respond well to overnight periods. The best thing to do is just shoot it, after about the first 10 rounds, you have eliminated any residual oils. Normal operation will do the best honing you could ask for. With use the gun will smooth up and velocity will peak. Only break barrel guns with gas rams can be left cocked indefinitely. Shoot it, see how it works, if you are happy with it leave it alone. If it nags at you, there are a number of tuners out there that can safely and quickly do the work for you. The key things to remember are:
1 - Break-in is for the compression chamber
2 - Lead pellets will not "lap in" a barrel like a powder gun and therefore should never require cleaning under normal use.
3 - The spring in that gun has enough stored energy to provide air conditioning in your noggin, so if you feel like working on it, educate yourself on safe disassembly.
4 - Most of these will outshoot you and "improvements" are more often than not, the shooter developing better techniques.
I have an inexpensive RWS 45 ($159) from 1983 that still shoots at the advertised 900fps after tens of thousands of pellets and it has never been apart. Go tool around Gateway to Airguns (GTA) and some of the other sites, there are sub-forums dedicated to springer operation and maintenance.
Good Luck!


Mark

[hoosierlogger]

WHOA ALL STOP!!!! Never leave a spring piston airgun cocked for more than the time it takes to load and fire, the spring will not respond well to overnight periods. The best thing to do is just shoot it, after about the first 10 rounds, you have eliminated any residual oils. Normal operation will do the best honing you could ask for. With use the gun will smooth up and velocity will peak. Only break barrel guns with gas rams can be left cocked indefinitely. Shoot it, see how it works, if you are happy with it leave it alone. If it nags at you, there are a number of tuners out there that can safely and quickly do the work for you. The key things to remember are:
1 - Break-in is for the compression chamber
2 - Lead pellets will not "lap in" a barrel like a powder gun and therefore should never require cleaning under normal use.
3 - The spring in that gun has enough stored energy to provide air conditioning in your noggin, so if you feel like working on it, educate yourself on safe disassembly.
4 - Most of these will outshoot you and "improvements" are more often than not, the shooter developing better techniques.
I have an inexpensive RWS 45 ($159) from 1983 that still shoots at the advertised 900fps after tens of thousands of pellets and it has never been apart. Go tool around Gateway to Airguns (GTA) and some of the other sites, there are sub-forums dedicated to springer operation and maintenance.
Good Luck!


Mark

Good to know, thanks!

[victorfox]

Well as Crank said, while I lube and clean the outside of my airguns (and sometimes lube the insides), I never dissassembled them beyond removing the action from stock (for cleaning and lubing) because I never saw the need...

Another interesting aspect I found is the breech O-rings, if bought in gun shops or airgun dealers cost a ton of cash. For the price of ONE ring, I bought 20 of the same from the hydraulic stuff dealer (you know, truck and tractor parts).

[cbashooter]

Many new air guns take quite a few more than 10 shots to clear the oil out of the chamber.

[Papa smurf]

It normally takes me about 500 plus or minus pellets till I get the accuracy I want . This has happened in all seven of my rifles except one , none of them are high end rifles . I got a Remington Express .177 last year . It worked very well after less than 50 or so of 9.8 gr domed until last week . After near 2000 pellets it changed its mind and now likes a 7 gr wadcutter . I think an air rifle is a lot like a woman . It wants to be held lightly and changes its mind often. Good luck and Good Shooting to you hoosierlogger ----------John --AKA --Papa Smurf

[Crank]

Papa Smurf,
+1 The newest mid priced springers from the high volume sellers do tend to need a longer break in time to settle down velocity and accuracy. My Dad bought one of the magnum Gamo rifles from one of the big chain stores. I tried to sight it in but it was erratic as hell until I got a bunch of pellets through it. It was still improving but my arm was a noodle from cocking the blasted thing. It kept going supersonic for the first half dozen rounds then the oil vapor burned off. Powerful as hell, but I'll stick with my old school German springers for smoothness. If I need horse power I have PCP's.

Mark

[cbashooter]

I agree mark,the magnum spring guns are just not easy or fun to shoot. An 8-14 fpe gun is just fine and easy to handle.more power needed grab a PCP is my take also.