Just received some new guns with some serious carbon issues around cylinders. What is recommended as best for carbon removal?? I do not have an ultrasonic machine, or plan to get one. Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.
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Just received some new guns with some serious carbon issues around cylinders. What is recommended as best for carbon removal?? I do not have an ultrasonic machine, or plan to get one. Any suggestions gratefully appreciated.
Best? Oh boy... stand by for the avalanche.
I've used Hoppes, JP8, various solvents that have probably shortened my life, CLP, break cleaner, TCE, and tons of other stuff I can't remember because of too much exposure to hazardous chemicals, but I'm not sure there's a best.
Many here are fond of Ed's Red. You can make it yourself and it's a lot more affordable than the little jars of Hoppes or whatever.
https://nfa.ca/resource-items/eds-re...w-bore-solvent
Last edited by John 242; 06-26-2016 at 08:00 PM.
For your application this has worked well for me https://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php
I have used one designed for chain guns. That worked very well also but I am current out of town and the product name escapes me.
Some tests here http://www.frfrogspad.com/cleaners.htm
Last edited by M-Tecs; 06-26-2016 at 08:35 PM.
Another recommendation for Ed's Red here. I don't know if it is the best or not but it works very well for me. And it just takes hardware store ingredients unless you put lanolin in it. Which is optional. I am too cheap lately to pay $10-15 for a 4 oz bottle of something to clean my guns with when I can mix this for maybe $6 a quart.
If this is for a revolver, I've had good luck using an oversized bore brush + frog lube paste (not a recommendation for it, I just happen to have some). I ruined a 45 cal bronze brush, but got rid of all the carbon build up and stickiness in my model 10-10 favorite.Originally Posted by Jim-Bibs
Pull the cylinders from the frame or yoke. Get a small container with lid. Put the cylinders in the container and fill to halfway up the cylinders with any automatic transmission fluid. Add same volume of diesel fuel, WD40, or lamp oil. Put the lid on and let them sit for 2 or 3 days. In my experience the fouling will come off with a light scrub with a nylon brush. YMMV but it's the easiest I've found. HTH....
if it doesn't fit, don't force it. Get a BIGGER HAMMER!
I use equal parts acetone / stoddard solvent with a bronze brush. Works very quickly with minimal effort.
The Bird of Time has but a little way
To fly-and Lo! the bird is on the wing
I used to use JP8 (vehicle fuel) to wipe out the GMD (grease) from the insides of one of these (M242) and clean the carbon out of M240C machineguns. Not authorized but it worked great, especially when they would chase us away from the solvent tank in the motor pool.
I loved that gun, hence the call sign, John 242.
Last edited by John 242; 06-26-2016 at 10:22 PM.
Only buy factory lapped barrels
Get P3 Ultimate Gun Vise, take off height adjuster, build wooden understructure and clamp to bench.
Patch with KG1 [Carbon cutting]
Dry patch
Patch with KG 12 [Copper dissolving]
Wait a few
Dry patch
Brush with Witches brew [like Kroil and Flitz mixed with a ball bearing in the bottom] [kreeps under Copper]
10 strokes
wait a few
10 more strokes
Measure brush diameter, if smaller than groove diameter, replace and hand it down a bore size
Patch with alcohol [Flushes out black stuff from Witches brew effect]
dry patch
Inspect last 1/4" of bore with magnification and illumination
If any Copper is present, go back to KG12 step and continue
Last edited by Clark; 06-26-2016 at 11:45 PM.
M-Pro 7 with a brush. I use a suede brush outside. Water base so I just rinse under hot water. Stuff was made to clean cannons.
When you are done with Hoppe's and Ed's Red, M-Pro 7 will show you what was left.
The next best is Butch's Bore Shine.
SeaFoam for transmission is not bad if you let it soak for a little while.
I use mostly Ed's Red. cheap, and it works.
I picked up some methyl ethyl ketone.
I'm going to use it to replace the acetone in Ed's Red. It's suppose to evaporate slower than the acetone. See if it helps any.
Years ago we used a 2 cycle engine cleaner call ( I think if memory serves me) Mercury quick silver. It was made for cleaning degreasing 2 cycle boat motors. On small parts with no firnish ( bluing or parkerizing) I have used easy off oven cleaner. Let soak and brush It loosens and removes hard carbon deposits. I used to do this with the gas pistons from m1-as and some other small parts. We also used it as a cleaner on the big screw air compressors at work during rebuilds and overhauls.
MEk (methyl ethyl keytone) will remove carbon. I have used it in the past to clean exhaust ports in engines that were carbeoned- up. It will dissolved carbon, but that also has a side effect. Our body is carbon-based, so don't breath it and keep it off your skin. It is a carcinogen, so you need to use some precautions.
Ed's red will work too, although a little slower. It is the formula that was in Hatcher's notebook way back when, only the whale oil has been replaced with Dexron ATF. It is my go-to. It also helps remove rusted and frozen bolts.
Ages ago I washed airplanes, DC-6 and DC-7. They had exhaust tracks, some gray paint. The cleaner ate carbon off right quick and we hosed it off. Did not want to get a drop in your eye.
Supervisor came out with white gloves to check. I don't know what the stuff was, came in 55 gal drums. They just called it track cleaner. Big recipes were filthy.
One of the cheapest and most effective cleaners is plain old Carb Cleaner from Wally World. Just be sure you don't get it on any wood stocks or wood grips. I have used one brand or another for the last 40 years or so and haven't ruined a stock or grip yet or hurt the bluing, now that I said that I will probably ruin one tomorrow, when Wally World came out with their store brand I switched to it and have used it ever since. For light clean ups I usually use CLP or something like that.
Steve...........
NRA Endowment Life Member
GOA Life Member
North American Hunting Club Life Member
I use non chlorinated carb cleaner to begin cleaning my auto's. It really cleans stuff out quickly. Be sure to get the non chlorinated stuff, the chlorinated stuff has stuff you do not want on your skin.
About a year and a half ago I bought a 30 caliber suppressor that is user servicable. I found that the carbon build up at the Blast-Chamber end of this suppressor was very difficult to clean due to the carbon build up. When shooting cast bullets, the combination of lead dust and carbon make it even more difficult to clean; let alone taking the suppressor apart.
I tried nearly every chemical listed above and they all worked to varying degrees but I'm sure none were doing my health any good.
I happen to stumble onto a product that sounded to good to be true but I gave it a try anyway. It's called Slip 2000 Carbon Killer. It's non toxic and non-biohazardous and it actually works for a change. I take my suppressor apart and let the components sit in the solution for about 15 or 20 minutes. (the time it takes to clean my guns) After my guns are all cleaned and put away I turn my attention to my suppressor. With a light brushing of the interior walls with a copper shotgun cleaning brush I wipe it down and It's good to go. When I shoot cast bullets I'll let it set in the solution over night. Since my outing to the shooting range are few and far between now days I can leave my dirty suppressor sitting in that solution of Carbon Killer for days with no ill effects.
I've never let my suppressor soak for that long but If I had to it would be no problem. It usually only take about 15 or 20 minutes for this stuff to loosen the carbon or lead dust from the interior walls of my suppressor. I would imagine that the same would hold true of dirty forcing cones or chamber walls of a revolver.
HollowPoint
44 man, I think it was called B&B
Eds Red for me, works great. The odd time I must dunk the part, if possible then you brush carbon slurry off. SKS pistons after firing corrosive ammo are the worst and require dunking for an evening.
Be safe
When you read the fine print you get an education
when you ignore the fine print you get experience
Ed's Red, followed by non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Ed's Reds really gets thing loosened up. The brake cleaner flushes the mess away.
I've had good luck soaking stuff in a mix of hoppes and kroil for a day or two and the carbon wipes off
Use it for my compensators and ar bolts.
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