WidenersSnyders JerkyRepackboxTitan Reloading
Reloading EverythingLoad DataInline FabricationRotoMetals2
Lee Precision MidSouth Shooters Supply
Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345
Results 81 to 95 of 95

Thread: Tin/Pewter

  1. #81
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,877
    Quote Originally Posted by PBaholic View Post
    I can relate to that too.

    Chris, your gonna hate me again, cause I stopped at the thrift store, and found another 5lbs of Pewter for $13.

    I must just be lucky.......

    Yall are tempting me to go make the rounds again and I just got a lovely box of 13lbs delivered.

  2. #82
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by redriverhunter View Post
    I may have not got what I wanted but I found this duck at an estate sale for 6.00 said pewter and hong kong on the bottom. http://www.ebay.com/itm/TRINKET-BOX-...UAAOSwZVhWT3wL
    I found a vase similar to that duck.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Pewter vase.jpg 
Views:	14 
Size:	12.6 KB 
ID:	172278
    It had no markings, but was darker than Pewter. It scratched VERY easily with a brass key, and I could be scratched by Pewter.

    I melted it, and I checked it's hardness today. Rather than the BHN 30+ I usually get with Pewter, it came back at only BHN 12.5.

    This is a LEAD alloy, rather than Pewter!

  3. #83
    Boolit Master
    DerekP Houston's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2015
    Location
    Houston, Texas
    Posts
    2,877
    my son is having to much fun banging all the assorted pewter tins/mugs/pitchers that showed up....I'm not allowed to melt it all down now! Shot my self in the foot with that idea.

  4. #84
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Location
    Somewhere in the woods of Central Oklahoma
    Posts
    469
    I took delivery on a beautiful coffee pot, creamer and sugar bowl today. So beautiful I was afraid I might not melt it......so took a hammer to it before I could make that mistake.
    Chris

  5. #85
    Boolit Man Skooterr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    75
    Anyone have any info on Wilcox Pewter? I searched here, and no info came up.
    Ran across a sugar n creamer at a house sale today. Roughly 3" wide, 4" high tapered, cylindrical shape similar to the pic below. Wanted $5, wouldn't come off ticketed price today, maybe tomorrow. Being new to this, I just wanted to see if it was worth it. From the casting/melting standpoint, is there a rough approximation of what pewter should be worth by the ounce, or pound? I don't care about the price as much as what I would be getting for the pewter quality. We're not exactly talking about a Carnegie/Mellon/Rockefeller deal here!!!



  6. #86
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Chris C View Post
    I took delivery on a beautiful coffee pot, creamer and sugar bowl today. So beautiful I was afraid I might not melt it......so took a hammer to it before I could make that mistake.
    Too funny

    I had a bunch of Pewter on the table a few months back, and the wife knows I melt it. All of a sudden I noticed a couple pieces were missing from the table and up on the shelf in the living room.......

  7. #87
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Skooterr View Post
    Anyone have any info on Wilcox Pewter?
    Wilcox Pewter was purchased by International Silver in 1898, so if they are marked Wilcox, they are older than that. Just because they are old does not make them valuable. Pewter was the poor mans Silver, before there was Silver plating. There is a set of those on eBay right now for $20, and looks like it's been there a while.

    Most Pewter made in the last 100 years does not contain lead, but older Pewter might. Typically any Pewter that was used for food did not contain lead. I recently ran across some Pewter that was darker in color, and it ended up being lead alloy. The hardness was only BHN 12.5, which put it at about 60% lead and 40% tin. If you can scratch it with your thumbnail it's lead.

    Tin sells for >$10/lb, and lead <$1/lb. Modern Pewter is at least 92% tin, and usually higher than that.

    You will be lucky to get 8 oz out of those 2 pieces together, so even $5 would put it at $10/lb. If they are heavier than that, it is another sign that it might be lead based, as the lead is heavier than tin.
    Last edited by PBaholic; 07-16-2016 at 11:50 PM.

  8. #88
    Boolit Man Skooterr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    75
    Quote Originally Posted by PBaholic View Post
    Tin sells for <$10/lb, and lead >$1/lb. Modern Pewter is at least 92% tin, and usually higher than that.

    You will be lucky to get 8 oz out of those 2 pieces together, so even $5 would put it at $10/lb. If they are heavier than that, it is another sign that it might be lead based, as the lead is heavier than tin.
    Thanks, I figured they were about 3 or 4 oz. each. We usually go to 1 or 2 Estate sales on Sat. If I'm back that way today I'll stop in. I probably ran by lots of this stuff, just never really interested before. We only go to older home Estate sales, not looking for antiques, but mainly tools, hunting/fishing stuff, Pyrex and kitchen stuff from the 50s and 60s. I guess I've passed on lots of pewter stuff over the years, seen a lot of mugs, serving stuff, candle holders, etc., just wasn't looking at the time.

  9. #89
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Skooterr View Post
    Thanks, I figured they were about 3 or 4 oz. each. We usually go to 1 or 2 Estate sales on Sat. If I'm back that way today I'll stop in. I probably ran by lots of this stuff, just never really interested before. We only go to older home Estate sales, not looking for antiques, but mainly tools, hunting/fishing stuff, Pyrex and kitchen stuff from the 50s and 60s. I guess I've passed on lots of pewter stuff over the years, seen a lot of mugs, serving stuff, candle holders, etc., just wasn't looking at the time.
    Try Thrift Stores....

    The ones in my area get Pewter in all the time. Stick to items stamped "Pewter" on their bottoms, and pay attention to their weight. I like to keep purchases under $4/lb.

  10. #90
    Boolit Man Skooterr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    75
    Stopped back, got them, and a couple other things in a milk crate buried under a table, not sure what they where, but I took a chance on them, $7 total.
    Was then going about 20 mi, for Sat Dinner, at favorite restaurant, stopped at a yard sale on the highway, after 6PM. I found a tray/plate marked pewter by Reed & Barton, $1.
    The vessels in pic are marked 4, E P, A Quality, 922, doesn't scratch with fingernail, but does with a key, not as soft as scraping a car battery post, if that makes sense. All handles and bases soldered, larger one has what appears to be ceramic rings as decor, on the handles.


    Last edited by Skooterr; 07-17-2016 at 09:48 AM.

  11. #91
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Skooterr View Post
    The vessels in pic are marked 4, E P, A Quality, 922, doesn't scratch with fingernail
    EP stands for Electro Plate. It is silver plate, and is unlikely to be Pewter.

    Take your items, and tink them with something like a pocket knife. If there is a ring to them, they are not Pewter. Pewter will have more of a thud.
    Last edited by PBaholic; 07-17-2016 at 12:02 PM.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master


    HangFireW8's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Central Maryland
    Posts
    2,587
    There is such a thing as silver plated Pewter, but it is rare. Thus usually Electro Plate is to be avoided, but if it is soft and creeks when bent, take a chance! Trace amounts of Silver in alloys makes for a good hard boolit.
    I give loading advice based on my actual results in factory rifles with standard chambers, twist rates and basic accurizing.
    My goals for using cast boolits are lots of good, cheap, and reasonably accurate shooting, while avoiding overly tedious loading processes.
    The BHN Deformation Formula, and why I don't use it.
    How to find and fix sizing die eccentricity problems.
    Do you trust your casting thermometer?
    A few musings.

  13. #93
    Boolit Man Skooterr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    75
    Another lesson learned. Who says you can't teach an old dog new tricks.
    After I paid, I set my stuff aside, went for a last look around, picked out a Haynes Jeep manual for my son, and a Miller Falls hacksaw took them up to the table the lady waived me off, said they're yours, "Have a nice day.' So I may have struck out on the pewter, but it still turned out ok. The small plateds will now hold my pens, pencils, etc, and small files, drifts, etc. A step up from the red Folgers cans.

    The Hacksaw.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/Millers-Fall...MAAOSwyDxXhSec

  14. #94
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    94
    PBaholic, awesome chart! Seems to be basically what the Lee hardness tester does, but using a drill press and scale as an alternative method.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  15. #95
    Boolit Buddy PBaholic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    236
    Quote Originally Posted by Sekatoa View Post
    PBaholic, awesome chart! Seems to be basically what the Lee hardness tester does, but using a drill press and scale as an alternative method.
    Thanks

    Some have attacked it, one person even calling it a Rube Goldberg approach, but the science behind it is sound. This is close to how Brinell himself tested metal hardness, except he used a 7/16" ball bearing.

    It has it's limitations, as it is only usable into the BHN 20's as I have it stated. Otherwise the measurement gets too difficult. You can always go to a larger point, or higher pressure to make the indent larger.

    Yes, this is exactly what Lee is doing, except I'm using more pressure to get more accurate results. The 200 lbs isn't all that critical, as there isn't much difference between 190 and 210 lbs on the indent. Since you are using more pressure, you get better results as you are no longer measuring at just the surface, but also the metal below the surface. Lee wants you to cut the sample in half, and test the insides.

    For those who haven't seen the chart, here it is:

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Measure Brinell Hardness.jpg 
Views:	23 
Size:	58.8 KB 
ID:	172831

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst 12345

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check