I was at a shooting camp yesterday up in the Mtns. of SoCal in the Lockwood Valley between Bakersfield and LA. The elevation is around 4,000 feet. The temps hovered around 80-85 all day and the humidity was maybe 15-20% tops. I had no instruments to measure it but 6+ years as a military weather observer has left me with a well calibrated sense of feel.
We used the BH209 in a couple of inlines, a CVA Optima and a mid-grade Thompson Center. The Black MZ was used in an Enfield 58 cal rifle and a Zouave. I also used it in a Great Plains 50 cap lock and in a ROA revolver. Here's what I noted. Not very scientific but pretty obvious to everyone there.
1. BH209 lit perfectly with zero delay using Win 209 primers.
2. Charges ranged from 70 grains to 110 grains but mostly 70.
3. 3/4 of the bullets used were TC Cheapshots (sabots) I also shot about 50 TC Maxie balls lubed with SPG and 5 or so Hornady Hardballs, a very hard round ball in a sabot cup...kinda like Buttler Creek used to make.
4. Velocity with all was high. Even at 70 grains the crack was sharp and very pronounced. Recoil was noticeable too.
5. I had to swab the bore just once after more than 30 rounds.
6. Accuracy was very good. A deer sized target at 50 yards was "killed" every time by 9-13 year olds with zero experience.
7. I burned through 10 oz. of it that day.
8. Clean up was pretty much done with 4 patches of Ed's red for each rifle. (They tell you not to use water with BH209. The patch I ran down the bore after 30 rounds was some sort of T77 pre-lubed patch; definitely water based but nothing bad happened).
9. If velocity is your thing and you don't mind the $3.4 0 an ounce cost, this does the trick
10. One more thing, it doesn't meter or pour from a flask worth a ****. I wound up scooping it.
Now to the Black MZ
1. It meters very well but clumps over time. Mine was left over from last year and I had to shake it to break it up.
2. We shot 60 grains in the three remaining rifles. The muskets used Lyman Minnie bullets, Lee REAL bullets and a couple of TC maxie balls (yes, they do exist in 58cal.)
3. Ignition was 100% using musket caps from last year and a couple of years before. The GP rifle used Winchester magnum caps.
4. I shot the muskets all day and never swabbed the bores.
5. All of the bullets were sized in a .577 sizer in my RCBS luber and all were lubed with SPG.
6. The Lyman GP fired the Hornady Hardballs, unlubed and 50 cal maxie balls lubed and sized in my RCBS luber.
7. Accuracy was very good. Gongs, menacing rocks and bullseye targets all were victims of the muskets. The kids had to use a shooting stick but they did ok.
8. Kids don't like curved Hawken-style butt plates. There arms are too small to shoot with the butt in the upper arm and their shoulders too bony to cope with the curved shape under recoil.
9. I swabbed the Hawken twice. It's bore came to me less than slick so it tends to foul more.
10. Clean up used a couple of patches wetted with Gunzila. The nipples were wiped with Gunzilla too then the metal, inside and out got a coat of Remoil.
The revolver remains uncleaned until Saturday. It's stainless and the garage is dry so I'm pretty sure I won't have a problem.
Neither product left a "crud ring" like T7 and both were faster and more consistent than Pyrodex. If you must use a BP sub and unless an inline is your game, I'd go with Black MZ.
For my inlines, it's Blackhorn 209 all the way and...I'm going to use it in my 32-20 revolver loads too.
As a side note, screw the stupid sabot rounds and go for the maxie ball. They are cheap, really hard hitting and deadly accurate.
That's my story. It's worth what you paid for it.
R Talley