Who can I send my Ruger speed six cylinder off to have it chamfered?
Who can I send my Ruger speed six cylinder off to have it chamfered?
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If you're referring to chamfering the outer leading edge of the cylinder, I would think that any competent machinist could do the job on their lathe in a few minutes.
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Dougguy is well respected here and reasonable.
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Guessing you want each chamber chamfered for speed loading?
You can do the job yourself with the proper cutter and pilot. Some alleged gunsmiths will just cut chambers with the extractor in place which I believe is improper. The extractor should be removed before the outer edge of the chamber is cut. The cut should be just enough to break that sharp edge at the chamber mouth and no more. Then the "corners" of the extractor are blended with a needle file to match the chamfer cuts on the cylinder. This leaves the majority of the extractor untouched and ensures positive extraction while eliminating the sharp edge on the outer chamber mouth that tends to catch the cartridges when inserting rounds with a speedloader.
I chamfer the cylinder AND the ejector star. There is not enough metal removed to reduce function of the ejector and the chamfer NEEDS to be done 360° for it to be truly effective. Only chamfering the outside of the cylinder helps but if a speedloader is canted and slightly off centered the square edges of the unchamfered ejector will cause it to hang up as bad as not chamfering the cylinder at all.
It will also align an ejector which in about half the Ruger cylinders that I have seen, are a few thousandths out of align with the charge holes.
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I think the chances are he does mean chamfering the edge of the chambers. But if it is the front outer edge of the cylinder, you could put a metal rod in the axis hole, protruding about žin., and chamfer it by hand with successive grades of abrasive paper, fixed on a solid backing.
Still, you may then need someone to reblue your chamfered cylinder, in which case it might be easier to have a gunsmith do the complete job.
Maybe I wasn't completely clear and that's my fault. On a duty gun/self defense gun, I was always instructed to leave the extractor un-cut and just blend the corners of the extractor star into the chamfered outer section of the chambers (charge holes in S&W parlance). I have several revolvers modified in that fashion. I totally agreed with DougGuy's comments about the amount of metal removed from the extractor being minimal. The goal is to improve the feeding from a speedloader but many old LE armorers would not cut the extractor on a duty gun. Most target guns that are used with full wadcutters are in fact cut all the way around and the amount of metal removed is very minor.
My old S&W PPC gun was chamfered pretty aggressively, could almost toss a speedloader in the general direction and it would fall in just fine, lol.
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