I'm a dumb &$@

[michael.birdsley]

Guys I need help and I know I'm going to catch grief for it but, I deserve it. I had a round get stuck in my barrel. I know it's dumb. I knew I had one in a lot of 45 rounds that I reloaded when I first started reloading about 6 months ago. So I loaded up the 45 trying to find it. Found it on the second round. I was able to get the bullet of of my sr9c with a center punch( I wasn't thinking I have brass punches or could have waited untill tommrow to get a wooden dowel). But, after examining the the barrel I left a burr in the middle of the lands ( attached in photo below). Can I shoot it out? lap it out? Or should I send it back Ruger for a new barrel. We do have machinist at the shop where I work. I feel horrible this whole thing could have been avoided on so many levels.

It's on the bottom of the barrel kind of in the center


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View from chamber end on right side of barrel

[500MAG]

What happened? Did you skip powder in a round?

[country gent]

The real issue isnt the burr (it can be removed several ways) but the ding displaced metal that may be there in the land below the burr. When a burr is left the metal has been moved to what degree depends on force applied impact and edge of tool used. A lead slug may remove a simple burr by push it thru from the opposite direction. but the tight spot created is going to be harder to deal with. The land is thin and nay have been distorted in and swelled side to side at that point. I would push a soft led lug thru and feel for a tight spot at that point. Lube bore and slug good with a light oil. Push thru marked as to radial orientation the first time then rotate 1-2 grooves and push thru again feeling for the tight spot. Slug will be pre engraved with the rifling so should go thru with hand pressure the second time By rotating your using a engraving un affected by the damage. You may actually see a slight diffrence in width on the slugs engraving where this is. Go slow and pay attention to what your seeing here it may be salvagable

[jcren]

Fire lap or shoot jacketed to peen the bur and see if it pulls lead. I had a simular bur in a 38 special that is barely visible now and doesn't cause leading.

[AbitNutz]

There are a couple of things to try...although fire lapping isn't bad to try no matter what.

Lewis Lead Remover. A tight fitting brass screen may help quite a bit.
Then, JB bore paste and Kroil on a tight fitting patch may clean it up. Get a shot cleaning rod or cut one down and chuck it into a cordless drill.
You can only make things better doing this. It can't hurt anything.

All of this stuff is available from Brownells. The JB/Kroil can be had from them as a kit.

[John Taylor]

Shoot it and see how it does. The barrel is harder than a jacketed bullet so it would take quite a few to smooth it out. Lead bullets will smooth it out over time. Fire lapping is a little drastic unless it has a problem leading.

[Mk42gunner]

Well, at least you didn't use the wooden dowel. Those things cause more problems than they are worth when used inside a barrel. Here's a cringe worthy link about wooden dowels stuck in barrels: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-from-a-barrel

I think John Taylor has it right, shoot it and see how it does.

Robert

[UKShootist]

As has been said, give it a scrub and shoot it to see how it does. The worst thing I've done with a rifle is to look down the bore with a decent bore scope. It can be terrifying! I have a Steyr Scout that nobody told me to remove the sound moderator before storing it in the gun cupboard. Looking at the bore through the scope there are patches about an inch or so from the muzzle that look like the surface of the moon. It still shoots inside three quarters of an inch at 185 yards. OK, so it's not bench rest championship stuff, but it's good enough for me.

[akajun]

Just shoot it with some jacketed bullets. When you drill a gas hole on a Semi Auto it leaves a bigger burr than that, which quickly disappears after a few shots.
You should see the gas port erosion on a .223 barrel with 3-4 rounds on it, its about an inch long, mine still hammers at 600yds.

[michael.birdsley]

Well here is the update guys and I do appreciate it. We ended up lapping it with 600 grit sand paper covered in cutting oil. I took it in last night to work and the third shift maintaince guy (who is also a machinist) help me. luckily he walked me through how to do it. [IMG]https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160606/e339b692fa7bf85fbff1d71c6f9bb2f4.jpg[/IM

There is still a valley there but, nothing that can be done about thatbut, the burr is gone .Took it out about 30 mins ago to shoot and all is well. That valley being there will remind of me of my mistake. Yeah and I didn't think about the barrel being harder than copper I was just freaking out about what I had done to the barrel. Made that slotted piece out of a Allen head cap screw.


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[michael.birdsley]

Well, at least you didn't use the wooden dowel. Those things cause more problems than they are worth when used inside a barrel. Here's a cringe worthy link about wooden dowels stuck in barrels: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-from-a-barrel

I think John Taylor has it right, shoot it and see how it does.

Robert

Isn't that what Midway and Brownells suggest to use to push a led slug through a barrel? I know I have one gun smithing book that says that. Thanks for the heads up I was about to do that sometime next week.


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[JSnover]

A stuck or split dowel in a handgun barrel may not be as much of a problem.
Brownell's and Midway might recommend it but I'd only use it on a handgun barrel with a generous bore (like yours). Worst case, you could have someone set it up in a mill and drill out the offending dowel without damaging the bore because you have a little more room to work inside there and a long enough drill is easy to find. With a rifle or shotgun barrel it's a different ball game.

[pietro]

I was able to get the bullet of of my sr9c with a center punch( I wasn't thinking I have brass punches or could have waited untill tommrow to get a wooden dowel).

FWIW, the next time that happens (and there will be a next time), if you use a drift rod that's just under the bore size to knock out the boolit, the barrel/rifling should remain undamaged by the process.


.

[Hardcast416taylor]

I see that you were using an air powered grinder with the 600 grit polishing job. When I worked in a die making plant back in the `80`s & `90`s I was in constant demand by die makers and repair men to install 1/4" brass needle air valves on their air tools before the air hook up. With this valve they could regulate the speed the grinder in question would operate. I also introduced to them swivel air fittings on the air tools they used. I always wondered why these simple innovations had never been available to these die makers before?Robert

[Mk42gunner]

Isn't that what Midway and Brownells suggest to use to push a led slug through a barrel? I know I have one gun smithing book that says that. Thanks for the heads up I was about to do that sometime next week.


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The last time I remember using a wooden cleaning rod on anything besides a muzzle loader was when one broke and jammed tight when my striker and I were cleaning a bunch of riot guns after range quals back in 1988. It took us a few hours to get the $^*% thing out.

When we got off the ship that evening I went to a local gun store and bought a shotgun cleaning kit with an aluminum rod.

Robert

[michael.birdsley]

I see that you were using an air powered grinder with the 600 grit polishing job. When I worked in a die making plant back in the `80`s & `90`s I was in constant demand by die makers and repair men to install 1/4" brass needle air valves on their air tools before the air hook up. With this valve they could regulate the speed the grinder in question would operate. I also introduced to them swivel air fittings on the air tools they used. I always wondered why these simple innovations had never been available to these die makers before?Robert

We don't have a lot of machinist at our shop all of our laths and big mills are CNC. The third shift maintenance guy just happens to have been a machinist in a previous life. I am the senior quality guy on the shift so having him around is a blessing when our custom gauging gets stripped out or other anomalies happen like gouging a barrel l lol. To answer questions about the valve it just comes down to money


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[michael.birdsley]

So what would you guys suggest what rod to slug a bore


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[fast ronnie]

I've got a steel rod that is covered with heat-shrink over the outside to keep it off the bore.

[MtGun44]

Never try a wooden dowel. They can (and have) break on a long diagonal and
then the two pieces wedge tighter than a tick....... sometimes impossible to
remove without drilling.

Doesn't look too serious.

Bill

[BigEyeBob]

I use a 1/4" brazing rod , slightly harder than normal brass . I also make brass discs slightly under land diameter to sit on the slug so the rod doesn't penetrate the slug and swell it and jam in the barrel .
Once when slugging my BSA 303 I had the rod go right through the slug and leave a cylinder of lead in the bore .Luckily I didn't shoot the rifle with the lead deposit in the barrel
I made a brass disc to fit the bore and managed to drift it out with the rod and the disc with no damage to the bore. From then on after I have always used a back up disc to use with the rod for slugging bores.