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Thread: Lyman (Hand Type) Shell Resizers

  1. #1
    Boolit Mold
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    Mar 2008
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    Lyman (Hand Type) Shell Resizers

    I lucked up this weekend and found a few of the Lyman "hammer in-hammer out" shell resizers at a small gunshop for good prices. Most are marked with the caliber and "FL," a couple are not. For those not marked "FL," how much and exactly what part of the cartridge case are they intended to resize? Does one just hammer the case as far as possible and then quit? The 30-06 resizer is not marked FL, and after beating a lubed case in with a heavy plastic mallet, it appears that the first approximate 1/8 inch of the case neck is reduced, compared to the rest of the neck. Roughly 3/8 inch of the base of the cartridge remained outside of the resizer.

    I know the process to use these is as simple as it gets, but does anyone have an original instruction sheet for these that they could scan and post, assuming that the resizers were sold with one?

    Thanks!

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy Wicky's Avatar
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    I used a heap of these when I first started reloading and found that rather than use a plastic mallet I used my vice with copper jaws, don't want tooth marks on the case head. Just loobed the case and wound it in in the vice. I don't know if it is any better but at least you are not pounding on the case head.
    I don't recall any instructions but the case used to go in flush with the die.
    I also used my press, when I bought one, to help push out the case rather than belt the steel rod into the bottom of the case to remove it from the die!!
    Do, or do not. There is no try.
    Yoda

  3. #3
    Boolit Master and Generous Donator
    floodgate's Avatar
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    jmaurer:

    So far as I know, ALL the ldeal/Lyman hand sizers are F/L sizers. Most of mine are marked only with the caliber; the "FL" marking may be a more recent addition - mine are mostly pretty old. I may have an insttruction sheet with one; if so I will scan and post it. Like Wicky, I ALWAYS use a padded (aluminim sheet jaw protectors) vise to size and extract the cases; I have seen too many dies and ejector rods battered by the use of hammers. I use a 3/4" nut as a spacer for the extraction stage.

    floodgate

    EDIT: Add photo of an early (ca. 1940) Lyman "Ideal Re-Sizing Tool" in .45 ACP with instructions on box lid:

    .

    Instructions may not be fully readable, but advise using shell free of smoke or corrosion, lightly oiled (also oil inside of die); [start shell into die], place on anvil or hardwood block;drive shell in to the head [flush with die face] with flat-faced hardwood mallet, "...striking squarely and straight so as to avoid bending shell."

    Note that the illustration (from an early Ideal Handbook) shows an enlarged head on knockout punch; I have never seen one with this feature.

    Fg
    Last edited by floodgate; 05-14-2008 at 12:22 PM.
    NOV SHMOZ KA POP?

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy Muskrat Mike's Avatar
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    I'll try to post a set of directions from one of mine

    Here Goes, I'll try-sorry if it doesn't come out readable.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Lyman FL Sizer.jpg  

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Muskrat Mike:

    Thanks very much! I knew there had to be an instruction sheet out there somewhere. Thanks for posting it!

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master

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    The original instruction from 1890 recommend using a vise if available. I use an arbor press.

  7. #7
    Boolit Bub
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    dies

    I used these dies back in the 50,s,they worked well just used a heavy vise and lube.Must have been a labor of love though.Also used them to form cases.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check