Arrived, cleaned, and on its 3rd heat cycle. Can't wait to try it out.
Arrived, cleaned, and on its 3rd heat cycle. Can't wait to try it out.
Postman conveniently forgot to ring doorbell. Now have to go pick it up this afternoon.
Edit: picked up and got some COWW flowing. Very happy with results.
Last edited by StuBach; 10-01-2016 at 12:16 PM.
I didn't season it like alot of ppl but I just casted with it I prolly had 30 or 40 wrinkles as the lead and mold got up to temp then started casting sweet shiny smooth penta bullets with WW and about 2%tin mixed in I weighed them and 3 out of 4 weighed 210grs I'm happy with this mold can't Wait to hi tek coat them and send them down the tube
Casts great. I used 2 penta, 1 hollow, and one flat pin. Boolits drop right out.
Sprue plate loosed up after a while though.
Got mine last week, nice to have another great mold. THANK YOU
"Yes or no will almost always suffice as the answer"
what a work of art! I love the mold almost don't want to use it! this is my first brass mold, can some explain the proper or your preference for breaking them in? I don't want to mess it up, thank you for the handles and the smooth painless group buy!
Waiting for my 9mm mold to show up. By people on the site your molds are supreme. Did you do an overrun on these for a late comer purchase?
I use the oven (when the wife is not home). After cleaning the mold I separate the halves and place in a cold oven. I then run the oven up to about 375 and hold for 20min or so before turning the oven off. I leave the mold in the oven to cool. After running this heat-cool cycle 3 times I take it out and pour lead.
Brass like to run hot and fast.
anyone care to give some advice to a fellow who's never used a hp brass mold before?
I start by spraying mine clean with non-chlorinated brake cleaner (cheap and WalMart has it in their automotive dept.),including the pins and the screws that hold the pins in.
I then lube the screws that hold the HP pins in place.
I then take a graphite pencil to the HP pins, coating ONLY the part that will make the HP (this only needs to be redone after you cast the mold 4 or 5 sessions).
I then assemble the mold, placing the HP pins I want to use in the mold, backing the HP pin screws off about a 1/4 turn to eliminate binding of the pins in the mold (once you've used the mold a couple of times, you can probably tighten them up without any problems).
Heat the mold on a hot plate to bring it up to casting temp. I do this while waiting for my lead to melt, this gives time for any extra mold lube to burn off.
Once the mold is hot, I put mold lube on both sides of the sprue plate, wiping it off with a paper towel before lubing anything else (don't worry, what's left is plenty to lube the mold).
I then lube the mold pins, where the halves meet.
Reheat mold on the hotplate (I set the mold on the hot plate and use this time to flux my melt).
You're ready to cast.
Hope this helps !
CPL Lou
CPL Lou
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |