How do you guys keep these dam screws tight? I have both LH and RH and they wont stay tight...... Thanks
How do you guys keep these dam screws tight? I have both LH and RH and they wont stay tight...... Thanks
I drill a hole in the side of the mold and tap and set screw. mind you I use my grizz 704 to do this I did one on the bridgeport series 2 once but those little molds are fiddly to set up on it. so I use my smaller mill to do them on.
I like to use the search feature to find out how to keep SPRUE plate screws tight. Of several threads on the subject, this thread has pictures so you have a good idea what you are getting into with this project. Use care.
http://www.castpics.net/subsite2/Mol...umentation.pdf
I have read on one of the threads, can't recall which, to back the screw out, take a single strand of fine steel wool and wrap around your screw thread, then retighten. problem solved. Haven't tried it yet, but the next time I fire up that particular mold, the 0000 is gonna get unravled a little.
Piece of lead shot dropped in the hole or a copper shim [thin piece]. I haven't tried this yet but there is a thread around here somewhere about this sort of issue.
Several ways to keep the sprue plate screws tight. You can easily remove screw and sprue plate lay out center puch drill and tap an 8-32 or 6-32 threaded hole to lock the screw. A piece of lead shot or copper wire under the set screw protects thread and gives a better grip also. a slightly long set screw an allow a jam nut to be used to lock set screw also. I have heard of tape or very fine steel wool being used to tighten the screw in the threads. A longer sprue plate scre or short set screw can be fitted to bottom out where you want it set at also. High temp silicone may also lock it in place.
Thanks guys Lots of options I will give em a try''''''''
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Not hard at all to do. ACE hardware has the set screws. I use a bit on lead in the hole--doesn't seem to be affected by the pouring of hot lead into the mold.
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Mark the screw where the set screw will hit it when tightened, then remove and file a flat on the threads of the sprue plate screw. No need to use lead or copper to protect the threads then.
I have used Loctite permanent thread locker on a couple and it holds well as long as you don't overheat the mold. Have to heat the screw with a propane torch to remove the screw without messing up the threads.
With on of my Lee 6 cav molds,I tried another approach.Drilled and tapped another hole through the existing hole into the bottomof the mold.Got a 2 inch stud,installed it all the way through the existing hole,into the new tapped hole on the lower end.I ran the tap about 3/4 the way of the bottom to help "lock"the stud in.Used a couple of flat jamb nuts with a wave washer,then cut the stud to size.No adjustment has been needed after casting piles and piles of bullets.Just another idea.
It works like a charm ! I had a perpetual loosening Lee that drove me insane. A few strands shoved in the hole , replaced screw and that bad boy has NOT come loose since. I went to unscrew it and it didn't want to easily unscrew , so I just left it in place....I don't want to break the seal. Not sure how or why this works but it does and is cheap and easy.
Gary
The problem is the very soft alum. and the screws pull out the thread somewhat (strip it), so of course they will undue, I used to drill right down and through and use a bolt and locknut.
By the way, do you know what a large locknut is called??? A " locknuts monster".......say it a few times........
I am nowhere close to a machinist - years ago I broke off a tap in a rifle that I only wanted to clean out the threads a little. Haven't touched the stuff since.
Then I started casting boolits, with Lee molds, and the frustration mounted.
Having read mucho stuff on this fabulous site, I dug out 40 years of accumulated tap and screw sets, set up my 50 year old Craftsman drill press and vise, and today mounted my first set screw on a Lee mold! Tomorrow, I'll go into town and brag.
Thanks to all of you who have taught me so well!
Good Job. The right cutting fluid on the tap really eases this job. Always remeber to break the chip often and clear threads of chips every turn or so.
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One of the most endearing sights in the world is the vision of a naked good-looking woman leaving the bedroom to make breakfast. Bolivar Shagnasty (I believe that Lazarus Long also said it, but I can't find any record of it.)
Speaking of Lee sprue screws. I just bought a new old stock single bullet mold. It is a 358, 117 grain round nose. There were some little chunks of aluminum from poor quality manufacture under the sprue plate and promptly scored the top of the mold. I tried to get the screw out and it won't budge. The mold is 358-117-1R number 90325. I am quit trying to loosen the screw because I thought it might be right hand thread. Did Lee once use right hand threads on their sprue plate screws? Is there any way to tell? I figured it will fall out eventually (like all of them) then I will be able to see.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |