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Thread: Best All Around Chainsaw Size

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    A well made 50cc with a 20" bar is just right for my "big" saw. It'll handle anything on my property no problem, of course some trees will be slower than others. Yes, I could get all my cutting needs done with only my Echo CS-400 but what fun is that? Like trying to do all your hunting with just one gun!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  2. #62
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    A strong motor and a 20" bar will do 80% of what I need
    Prefer Stihl myself
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  3. #63
    Boolit Buddy Sur-shot's Avatar
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    Some time ago I decided to stop buying box store equipment and went to stuff that lasts and stuff you do not throw away, you get it fixed. I also get tired of the "it is almost as good as." I own a tree farm and have hardwoods and pines that are of some size. I got rid of the other saws and bought a Farm Boss, it can be a bit heavy, but you do not need to hold it too long either. With a FEL on my tractor with a root rake attached, I can pick up about 4,000 lbs with it and move it to the burn pile, where I make short work of the horizontal long trunks and large limbs. I also have a Sthil trim saw on a power head with an extension tube (pole saw), very handy for cutting overhanging or broken limbs. That Sthil power head with multiple attachments makes a PU truck load of equipment. Orange tractors, orange saws and orange gas power tools work good for me.
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  4. #64
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Hmm, you like 'em orange. So, are you a Kubota or Allis-Chalmers guy?
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  5. #65
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    He has the Chinese "Kabata". It's just as good as a Kubota
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  6. #66
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonp View Post
    He has the Chinese "Kabata". It's just as good as a Kubota
    Them's fightin' words to my ears!!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  7. #67
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    Don't let the old Stihl ads all those selling service the saws. They are selling them in big hardware stores who do not service them. They sold out to sell at any reason or cost only profits count.

  8. #68
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    As far as I can tell, all the Stihl dealers here also offer service, however some put more effort into it than others. In any event I doubt I will be buying one soon as I am really happy with the Dolmar 5105 so far.

    While looking for carburetor info I stumbled onto the correct Zama adjustable carburetor for only $38.00 brand new with free shipping from a place called Mitty Supply in Georgia. Went ahead and ordered it, and the carb showed up two days later. Examining it, I see something interesting. The carb has limiter caps on the hi and low adjustment screws as expected, however they don't do anything. You can adjust 'em lean or rich to your heart's content as it should be. Way to go Zama! Soon as my tach shows up I'll give it a try.

    Another thing: you can easily find OEM Dolmar repair manuals online. I found one for the 5105 and printed it.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  9. #69
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    I still have not had a saw that out cut my Jonsered 2253. Great weight for cutting and limbing.
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  10. #70
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Stihl 026 ms 261 for general small stuff both wear 16's ms361 and 362 mtronic with 18's one 25 " in the cutting bag. 048 with 25" and 075 with 42" for milling. Mostly live oak and mesquite. Of these the 026 and 361 see the most use. For most folks 50 cc class is plenty and will more than do the work. Fresh fuel mix is the key preferably without ethanol if you can get it where you are.

  11. #71
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    I've been using E10 with fuel stabilizer in all my yard and farm machines for years now with great results. I use stabilizer year round and do not run it dry at the end of the year. The only time I have to do anything for the fuel system is change the filter every so often and replace carb parts that are just worn out. Alcohol is a good motor fuel but needs stabilizer for sure. Honestly, I would rather have E10 with stabilizer than straight dino gas without.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by FergusonTO35 View Post
    I've been using E10 with fuel stabilizer in all my yard and farm machines for years now with great results. I use stabilizer year round and do not run it dry at the end of the year. The only time I have to do anything for the fuel system is change the filter every so often and replace carb parts that are just worn out. Alcohol is a good motor fuel but needs stabilizer for sure. Honestly, I would rather have E10 with stabilizer than straight dino gas without.
    Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right

  13. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blanket View Post
    Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right
    I've not heard that E10 will seperate and become a higher concetrate. Where did you hear/read/see this information?
    I use Lucas Fuel Stabilizer/Ethonol Buster in my gas.
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  14. #74
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Tell us how it works out when you burn a hole in the top of a piston when the E10 goes to E30 because of the tank or separation , fuel hoses and gaskets dissolving , and with 2 strokes oil not mixing right
    I will, however you may be waiting a long time. On the other hand, I remember many people back in the days of "pure" gas who were buying new mowers and weedeaters every other year or so due to gummed up fuel systems and they figured the machine was just worn out so they bought a new one. Got a lot of nice machines with low miles for pocket change or free that way. I gave the princely sum of $8.00 for a barely used early 2000's Echo GT-200R weedeater from a co-worker. It hadn't been used in ten years and the fuel lines had crumbled to dust. New lines and filter, clean out solidified fuel/oil from the carb and she runs better than new.

    Burning a piston is 99.99% of the time caused by running too lean. I tune all my carbs to be a bit rich at WOT. In my 2 strokes I run synthetic oil mixed 36:1 with a healthy dose of stabilizer. I believe the extra oil provides more of a cushion for the moving parts and cools down the combustion temperature a bit. I have been doing this protocol for well over a decade in a huge variety of machines with much better results than straight dino gas.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  15. #75
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    Well ethanol separation is a two fold thing. The E concentrate doesn't rise but when it falls out of suspension as the fuel can heats and cools, it is hygroscopic absorbing water in the air around it. If using ethanol and. Or draining it's actually best to leave the tank as full as possible. This water in turn will over Tim corrode the inside of a carb. The ethanol in itself attacks rubber lines and diaphragms. I'm not saying ethanol is the devil or that good stabilizers won't help prolong the life of the fuel mix. But E free is best if it can be gotten. This separation reduces the octane rating of the fuel. The other issue is the 50:1 mix most companies recommend these days should truly be increased by the user to 40:1 and the carb re-tuned accordingly.

    If thank is not a problem I would like someone to tell me why it is that many fire departments are turning to ethanol free fuel in their front line small engine equipment ( chainsaws, K saws, hydraulic power unit for jaws of life, ventilation fans). After doing trials in house and noting a reduced maintenance cost and down time with ethanol free fuel.

    A paper outlining the phase separation process investigated by a petroleum product company.

    http://nationalpetroleum.net/Ethanol...tion-facts.pdf
    Last edited by kfd518; 06-30-2017 at 09:25 AM. Reason: Added information

  16. #76
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    If thank is not a problem I would like someone to tell me why it is that many fire departments are turning to ethanol free fuel in their front line small engine equipment ( chainsaws, K saws, hydraulic power unit for jaws of life, ventilation fans). After doing trials in house and noting a reduced maintenance cost and down time with ethanol free fuel.
    Same reason most PD's use Glock. Most firefighters are not mechanics nor do they necessarily tinker with small engines for a hobby. They also don't personally own those pieces of equipment, so as long as it works they don't think about it. So, it makes sense to use straight dino gas in order to remove one more potential problem from the equation. Eons ago, gas powered fire trucks had redundant ignition systems for the same reason.

    Don't get me wrong, if I had the choice of E10 or dino gas for nearly the same price I would go with dino. I would still use stabilizer and add extra oil for 2 strokes. That said, my fuel stabilizer regimen has served me well for years and I've never had a problem I could attribute to ethanol. Also, ethanol has always been in at least some of our gas for decades. Even in the days of $1.00 a gallon when I was a kid many places still had signs at the pump advising that the gas contained ethanol. I think Ashland (Speedway, Super America) has put ethanol in all their gas since the 70's and they are the largest gas retailer here in Kentucky.
    Last edited by FergusonTO35; 06-30-2017 at 12:16 PM.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  17. #77
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Fuel stabilizers work based on my experience as well. I prefer straight petroleum gasoline, but as much for other reasons as a phase separation concern. I have used E10 with 2 stroke oil containing stabilizers many times. I have yet to have engine or fuel system damage attributable to E10 in a number of 2 and 4 stroke small engines. My preference is use Stabil's marine fuel treatment but there are likely others as good or possibly even better.
    Star Tron is really good, been using that one mostly for a few years now. Only requires a third of an ounce per gallon, I use half an ounce for four strokes and a full ounce for oil burners.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  18. #78
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Well fudge, looks like my Dolmar is on the endangered species list. According to their website, Makita is merging Dolmar into their own brand. I so don't get it. I know Makita is a respected maker of power tools but they ain't fooling anybody, they are not a chainsaw maker and never will be. Just as Dolmar is not a cordless drill maker and never will be. Yes, I know they are still Dolmar saws with a different name but this is just bogus 100%. I mean, Husky has the decency to put the Jonsered name and colors on some of their saws and even give them their own website. Would it really hurt Makita to do the same, even though it's the other way around?

    I'll just keep enjoying my 5105 until it bites the dust and I can't rebuild it anymore. Then, I 'spose I'll unhappily buy a Husky or Stihl since they will probably be the only saw makers left by that point.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  19. #79
    Boolit Grand Master Bazoo's Avatar
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    I have a Husvarna 371 XP. Its the largest of their medium saws. Its heavy for limbing, but strong for cutting. Got a 24" bar on mine, at current. I'd like to also have a smaller saw.

  20. #80
    Boolit Buddy kfd518's Avatar
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    As far as fire men not thinking about the equipment I can say in my department we do think about it it's a life line for us.... if we don't have confidence in that tool starting when we Need it to we won't keep it on the truck. I am also willing to bet you're not representative of 95% of small engine owners out there as far as lack of maintenance and actually caring about your investments. Star tron is a great stabilizer and I use it myself. Doesnt mean I keep my fuel on hand for extended periods of time either I keep about 1qt fuel in my generator and run it out monthly the fuel in my 5 gallon cans gets dumped in the truck monthly and refilled. Yes I can tell the difference in the way it runs on old fuel. Yes most of my fuel is E10 but when I can get it I buy e free and put stabilizer in it as soon as I pump it. I have seen the evidence of E fuels separating and I've also seen the damage water in the bottom of a fuel tank gets sucked up before fuel.... old dumped new put in fresh fuel burns and steams the water.... that does amazing things in internal combustion motors.... by the way the EPA has proven phase separation ( they do state it is likely stale by that time anyways) as well as BP warning of it....
    Last edited by kfd518; 07-01-2017 at 11:25 PM.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
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GC Gas Check