Bool it options for my TC Thunderhawk

[Andrew Mason]

I am planing on deer hunting with my .50 caliber Thunderhawk this year.

im thinking of getting the Lee R.E.A.L. Mold, it's descriptions say it is a .517" diameter.

i measured the counter bored muzzle of my rifle, since I cant get to the rifleing.
the counter bored section measures .502"~ .503"

i just don't see how I can get a .517" projectile in there.

what are your suggestions?

-----------------note---------------
I re measured the leade in the barrel of the rifle, it measured .520+-
so, if you have a Thunder hawk, no reason to worry, the R.E.A.L.s are fine

[waarp8nt]

I just measured a few Lee R.E.A.L boolits I cast this winter from lead pipe. They measure tapered from the base .497 lower middle .501 upper middle .504 and top ring at .507

I have a few T/C muzzleloaders in 50 caliber and they do not load unusually difficult for me.

[54bore]

I would look for a TC Maxi ball or Maxi hunter mold, i see the Maxi ball molds on ebay quit often in .50 cal, its the 54 thats harder to come by. Nothing wrong with the Lee R.E.A.L. If you can get them to shoot good, try an over powder wad

[Fishman]

The REAL does work just fine in the thunder hawk but in my experience, accuracy leaves a lot to be desired. I was using Pyrodex at the time and no over powder wad, so changing those things might help. Think 3" groups at 50 yds using 80 gr RS.

The 1:38 twist isn't fast enough for sabots and 300 gr boolits, but it does very well with 240's. If I didn't already have a bunch of different sabots, I'd buy some of the new crush rib sabots to try and cast up some 240-265 gr .430 boolits with a wide meplat.

I wrote to T/C many years ago and they confirmed that the Thunderhawk was rated for 150 gr of powder, even though it came out before they started that marketing campaign. The only time that matters would be if you were wanting to be able to shoot long distances. A long time ago I worked up a good antelope load with 150 gr of pellets, a t/c mag sabot, and a 240 gr xtp. It held under 4" at 200 yds using an old weaver 2.5x steel-lite scope.

Lastly, I wouldn't bother with the 209 conversion, too violent for an open-top inline gun. I tried it and quickly removed it. I only keep it in case caps are too hard to find.

Some rambling thoughts for you. I liked mine so much I bought a second one. They are usually very inexpensive when you find them since there are newer designs on the market that are easier to use and clean.

[54bore]

I mis read your gun, i thought it was a TC grey hawk which is a sidelock. I have zero experience with inlines, i would think you could stil shoot a Maxi ball through it? That would be my choice over a Lee R.E.A.L. Try both and see which your gun shoots best!

[Andrew Mason]

thank you for the replies gentleman.

A very generous member on the forum offered to send some lee R.E.A.L. bullets to test in my gun.

the gun already has a 209 primer conversion that I am going to change out for a musket cap nipple,
I will be hunting in a weapons restricted zone,

exposed ignition, caps or flint (no primer), and traditional lead projectile (no sabot)

I got the gun with scope rings and no scope for $100 at gun show a few months ago.

thanks for the help guys,
and thank you to the generous member that offered to send me the boolits to try in my gun.

[aspangler]

I had a Thunderhawk which is about the same thing. I liked the 250 grain R.E.A.L. s over 90 grains Pyrodex RS with an over powder wad mad from an old shoe box. YMMV

[rodwha]

The REAL does work just fine in the thunder hawk but in my experience, accuracy leaves a lot to be desired. I was using Pyrodex at the time and no over powder wad, so changing those things might help. Think 3" groups at 50 yds using 80 gr RS.

The 1:38 twist isn't fast enough for sabots and 300 gr boolits, but it does very well with 240's. If I didn't already have a bunch of different sabots, I'd buy some of the new crush rib sabots to try and cast up some 240-265 gr .430 boolits with a wide meplat.

I wrote to T/C many years ago and they confirmed that the Thunderhawk was rated for 150 gr of powder, even though it came out before they started that marketing campaign. The only time that matters would be if you were wanting to be able to shoot long distances. A long time ago I worked up a good antelope load with 150 gr of pellets, a t/c mag sabot, and a 240 gr xtp. It held under 4" at 200 yds using an old weaver 2.5x steel-lite scope.

Lastly, I wouldn't bother with the 209 conversion, too violent for an open-top inline gun. I tried it and quickly removed it. I only keep it in case caps are too hard to find.

Some rambling thoughts for you. I liked mine so much I bought a second one. They are usually very inexpensive when you find them since there are newer designs on the market that are easier to use and clean.

My Lyman Deerstalker has a 1:48" twist with deeper PRB grooves, and with a felt was it shoots the 320 grn Lee REAL quite well at 50 yds with 70 grns of 3F Triple 7, but a wad is necessary. The first shot keyholed and was about a foot left.

[Fishman]

My Lyman Deerstalker has a 1:48" twist with deeper PRB grooves, and with a felt was it shoots the 320 grn Lee REAL quite well at 50 yds with 70 grns of 3F Triple 7, but a wad is necessary. The first shot keyholed and was about a foot left.

If I ever try the REAL again in my Thunderhawk, I will take your advice for an over-powder wad. I think the OP should as well, based on my relatively poor results without the wad.

[Fishman]

thank you for the replies gentleman.

A very generous member on the forum offered to send some lee R.E.A.L. bullets to test in my gun.

the gun already has a 209 primer conversion that I am going to change out for a musket cap nipple,
I will be hunting in a weapons restricted zone,

exposed ignition, caps or flint (no primer), and traditional lead projectile (no sabot)

I got the gun with scope rings and no scope for $100 at gun show a few months ago.

thanks for the help guys,
and thank you to the generous member that offered to send me the boolits to try in my gun.

Well a lot of what I wrote wasn't applicable, but did give you some background info. I think you did great on that price, as the original cost of these was around $300. One interesting thing about these guns is that they originally came with a Timney trigger, which was subsequently changed to a Bold trigger. Both of these are quite good and contribute to good shooting if you have a good load.

[mooman76]

Mason, you should have no real problem starting the Lee REAL down the bore. Mine do drop .517 but the bands aren't that thick. Another thing is only the top band is .517 and the others are smaller starting with the bottom which is .500 and they taper larger so they start straight and you get a good seal. I would also try the over powder wad. Use pure or soft lead. One good smack to start it and then they go down the bore fairly easy after that. I would offer you some REALS also but I see you got some coming.

[Andrew Mason]

based on what I am seeing here, I will defiantly opt for the over shot card.

and I guess my rifle is a older one, as it has the Bold trigger.

and also, what would you gentleman say to the idea of hollow pointing a 250 grain, and the 320 grain bullets?
I have a lathe and could easily do the conversion, but how much more lethal will I be?

oh, also, anyone have a suggestion on where to get a musket cap nipple?

thank you.

[rsrocket1]

I use overpowder cards with my REAL's. I cut them out with a 1/2" I.D. piece of iron pipe sharpened on a grinder

But even a wadded up piece of fast food napkin works better than the powder sitting against the lead.

I fill the grooves with a mixture of 2:1 Beeswax:Vaseline


The bullets are tough to start down the muzzle. I use a homemade starter and persuade the bullet down the bore with a plastic mallet



I've tried the REAL's and a 370g minie ball from a mold made by Shiloh, but my best accuracy so far has been with my 45 ACP bullets (Lee TL452-230-TC) in a yellow Thompson Center plastic sabot. No lube, just powder and bullet in the sabot. This is with a CVA Optima Pro and both Blackhorn 209 and Alliant Black MZ.

[725]

Try Dixon's Muzzleloading Supply, Track of the Wolf, or October Country for the nipple. Have to google them as I don't have a ready reference.

[bosterr]

For the guys that use over powder wads, are they for smoother ramming of the maxi for less damage on the base of the boolit?

[Fishman]

I don't know if you got the parts for the original cap system or not, but if you didnt, be aware that the bolt is different between the two. I don't remember exactly how they differed, but the 209 kit came with a different bolt and striker. I don't know if they can be used for any other priming system.

[725]

Separates the boolit from the powder to protect it from the effects of heat. Has a gas seal effect, too, but not much as far as I can see. Over powder cards and over powder felt wads - disks really - work. Lubed or dry. Just have see which is better in your application.

[waarp8nt]

Shot 50 yards off a shooting stick with my T/C Grey Hawk. Using Lee 250 grain R.E.A.L. over 75 grains of 2f goex. No over powder wad used. I know some folks have good luck with over the powder wads. I simply never used them for the Lee R.E.A.L. boolits.



3 shot group was mine. The 2 shot group slightly above was shot by my son when he was 17yrs old.

[Andrew Mason]

so, today I took my rifle into work and I measured the diameter of the leade into the bore with my good calipers, and not the cheap plastic ones I keep on the dash of my truck.

it measured at .519''
plenty big enough for the lee R.E.A.L boolits.
i will do some testing for accuracy with the several that a fellow member sent to me. but i will likely end up buying the molds anyway, as its been a awhile since i have gotten a new mold, and a good friend of mine also shoots lead .50's as well.

[7-30 Waters]

Have you considered trying the Hornady Pennsylvania Hunter bullet. Very similiar design to the Buffalo Ball-et bullet. Hollow base hybrid conical. I shoot them in my T/C 50 Caliber Flintlock and they are outstanding.