I was casting with a Lee 6 Cav. 148 gr. TL , WC mold of mine a few days ago. I noticed that I was having trouble keeping my sprue plate pivot screw tight.About every other opening of the mold, I'd have to stop and tighten up the screw.
I did a little measuring on the mold and decided that a nice coarse thread 6 mm set screw was in order. I didn't like the idea of a 6 - 48 , or an 8-40, I wanted something that I could put some torque on ! !
I went to the hardware store and found a nice tap and the appropriate drill bit in a pair in a blister pac . I thought ....Ummmm, that should be the answer to my problem. While I was there I picked up 1/2 dozen of the 6 mm set screws with the same thread pitch pattern as the tap.
While I was at it today, on the rear of the mold, the pivot that opens the top plate and cuts the sprue was beginning to wear into the mold a little, I'd seen others drill and tap a screw , then cut it flush for the steel " foot " to pivot on. I did mine like that today also.
This mold should give many more thousands of bullets .
Pics:
Here is the " before photo "
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...b/IMG_0433.jpg
Here is the " After Photo."
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...b/IMG_0434.jpg
Here is a photo of the screw that is embedded in the blocks and cut flush with the mold :
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...b/IMG_0438.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v4...b/IMG_0435.jpg











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Had the drill bit for 6-32 tpi in the DeWalt, and a #2, 82* centerdrill in a 18v cordless. Pulled the SP pivit bolt drilled for the setscrew, tapped then drilled for the steel bearing face under the SP cam, and hit it to full diameter with the centerdrill, then screwed in a slotted wood screw flush with the blocks.




happy7







Ben, sorry to hi-jack your thread! 







