How do you rig a Sharps for dry fire?

[guninhand]

I remember 3 or 4 years ago there was a post for how to rig a sharps action for safe dry fire, i.e. remove or add something so no danger of parts breaking. Couldn't find it with search engine. Please help.

[MT Chambers]

Yup, add snapcap, or fired case.

[Westwindmike]

I used a thick piece of leather between the hammer and the firing pin.


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[Jackpine]

I make snap caps for all calibers by knocking out the primer and filling the hole with high quality 100% silcone. Over fill the cavity, let it dry 24 hours and slice off excess with razor blade. Mark the base with a bright paint or finger nail polish, fill the mouth with white silicone or some other method to make sure you know they are for snap cap use only and do not accidentally mised with reloadable brass.

If you are using it in a firearm where you need to cycle the action, file or grind off the part of the rim where the extractor would grab the case. Sometimes if the case is too loose in the chamber I will put a small narrow sliver of electrical tape on the side of the case so it stays in place. Remove the case by knocking it out with a cleaning rod.

If it is a firearm used for competition, I recomend removing the snap cap after each use, so you do not get to the firing line and not be able to load because you have a snap cap in the chamber. You will be embarassed. (don't ask me how I know that!!!!)

Jackpine

[country gent]

If it has double set triggers the front can be set normally with out cocking the hammer buy pulling the rear to set it. I can do it this way on My pedersoli sharps, CPA and C Sharps Hepburn. If you want to cock the hammer a snap cap needs to be used. I turned some teflon slugs up large and small sizes to seat for snap caps, held up longer than the rubbers and silicones I tried.

[guninhand]

Thanks for the replies. The gun is a Farmingdale sharps with double set triggers. With snap caps I am left wondering how many hits can it take before the cushioning effect is too far gone. I have A-zoom caps that have developed a crater where the fake primer is. I guess any home made ones have a life span so you need to recognize when they're done. If you practice offhand shooting by just working the set triggers, is it as good as practicing when the swing of the hammer is part of the process (effect of hammer inertia on sight picture)? If the leather bumper between the hammer and firing pin has no negative issues, seems like it would be ideal.

[BrentD]

forget the snap cap. Simply put the hammer down and then set the front trigger and fire as much as you like. Forget about swinging hammer inertia. It is irrelevant.

[guninhand]

forget the snap cap. Simply put the hammer down and then set the front trigger and fire as much as you like. Forget about swinging hammer inertia. It is irrelevant.

Thanks. I just want to minimize chance of breakage. Murphy's Law was named after me, except Murphy's Law kicked in and they didn't get the name right.

[BrentD]

The only way to minimize breakage better than dry firing with the hammer down is to leave the gun in the safe.

Enjoy, you will be fine. They are great rifles.

[montana_charlie]

If the leather bumper between the hammer and firing pin has no negative issues, seems like it would be ideal.

I like to dry fire using the front trigger (sometimes) so I need something to absorb the hammer blow.
Between your transfer bar (the part the hammer actually hits) and your breechblock, there is a small gap which disappears when the hammer goes down.

Wedge a small rectangle of hard leather into that gap, and it will absorb many more hits than the average snap cap.

An old leather belt that 'shrank' over the years can provide a lifetime of 'rectangles'.