What else do I need?

[Ural Driver]

My apologies for the rookie questions but I figure this is the best place to ask them....
When it comes to casting and reloading I am green as grass, and even though I do not yet have the space to begin the process, I am slowly gathering the equipment to do both.
So far I have:

1) Dillon Square Deal B set up for .45 Colt (plus a 38/357 conversion kit....just because)
2) several pounds of powder (Titegroup)
3) several thousand primers
4) 4000 pieces of Starline brass
5) a kinetic bullet puller (because I know I'm gonna screw up on something)
6) an RCBS bullet puller with collet (because I'm probably gonna end up breaking the kinetic version)
7) 300 rounds of cast boolits bought from a member (so I have some idea what they are supposed to look like)
8) a Lee Pro 4-20 furnace
9) about 300 lbs. of lead (150# of Lyman #2 and the rest is assorted scrap lead)
10) a couple of the 10 lb. iron smelting pots
11) two ingot molds
12) a 200-1000 degree lead thermometer
13) a hot plate
14) 3 molds (a Lee .452-255-RF, Lee .452-300-RF and an RCBS .45-405-FN) all have handles
15) the Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook 3rd Edition
16) Redding model #5 powder trickler

I assume that at some point I will want/need to size my bullets.....and since I already have the RCBS bullet puller..... and a set of dies on the way (RCBS carbide with shell holder, extra seater plug and a LEE factory crimp die)....could ya'll suggest a good press to perform that sizing function, bullet pulling and maybe let me use those dies at some time in the future?
......I am already looking for a full set of the RCBS shell holders........
......I don't know which scale(s) I should be avoiding so some guidance there would be appreciated
......would a ladle(s) be useful, what size(s) and style?
......Any other of the reloading manuals that I should add to the list?
......suggestions on any other equipment I should have?

Thanks in advance.......

[dikman]

Whew! I'll leave other, more experienced members to comment in detail, my suggestion for a sizing press is a single stage something that is as solid/heavy as you can get. You can use it the right way up or modify it and use it upside down so that the boolits drop in and down.

[NC_JEFF]

I suggest a beam scale, I have a 5-0-5 that ive used for over 25 years and I still trust it. I hear lots of quality concerns about most low priced electronic scales so use caution with those. I like my Speer manual and my Lee reloading manual because neither because of the range of powders used in each.

[WRideout]

If you are willing to go with a used Ohaus or equivalent beam scale, you could probably pick one up from a member here on the Swapping and Selling forum, for a reasonable price. They don't usually give any trouble, but they are definitely from the analog age.

Wayne

[brtelec]

You can not go wrong with a 5-0-5 scale. nice balance between cost and accuracy. Any of the beam scales are fine. The only reason I would say to avoid the Lee scale is because it is a pain in the *** to use. If you can find a good deal on a Lyman, Redding, RCBS, Dillon etc. Any of them will work well for you. I have just had a 5-0-5 for decades.

[Sasquatch-1]

My apologies for the rookie questions but I figure this is the best place to ask them....When it comes to casting and reloading I am green as grass, and even though I do not yet have the space to begin the process, I am slowly gathering the equipment to do both. So far I have:

9) about 300 lbs. of lead (150# of Lyman #2 and the rest is assorted scrap lead)

NEED A LOT MORE LEAD

10) a couple of the 10 lb. iron smelting pots

If you plan to smelt lead find an old Dutch oven at a flea market and a turkey frier. Holds a lot more lead.

11) two ingot molds

For ingots I use some pans I found on clearance that were supposed to be used for making a Twinkie clone.

I assume that at some point I will want/need to size my bullets.....and since I already have the RCBS bullet puller..... and a set of dies on the way (RCBS carbide with shell holder, extra seater plug and a LEE factory crimp die)....could ya'll suggest a good press to perform that sizing function, bullet pulling and maybe let me use those dies at some time in the future?

You will need to size and lube your cast bullets. If you use a Lee push through sizer any single stage press will do. I would suggest an old RCBS Jr. The bullets will have to be tumble or pan lubed. Couple of good vids on YouTube.

......would a ladle(s) be useful, what size(s) and style?

Get a soup ladle from the dollar store. Make sure it IS NOT ALUMINUM and preferably punched out of a single piece of metal and not solder. Also a slotted spoon of some sort to remove dirt from your melt.

[BUCKEYE BANDIT]

1) Dillon Square Deal B set up for .45 Colt (plus a 38/357 conversion kit....just because)

Looks like you'll need a couple pistols to go with those dies.Send me a PM when you need brass for the 38's.

[TrashcanDan]

Never hurts to have a few different reloading books. Caliber-specific, ones put out by powder manufacturers, Hornady, lyman, lee.

I them to compare load data and go from there.

Case prep tools are a good investment too

[fast ronnie]

5-0-5 scale is a good piece. The early Reddings that didn't have the magnetic damper work, but they keep swinging back and forth, making them difficult and time consuming to use. They are accurate, though. Electronic are good, but I don't trust them. Gravity has been working pretty consistently for a while, though.

[Hardcast416taylor]

An early made Ohaus (Lyman) D-7 scale is about the same as a RCBS 5-0-5 scale. Redding magnetic scales are very good, but are more pricey.

If you need to use the kinetic boolet puller, use it on a 4x4" block of wood - not on a concrete floor! If you do it will eventually break off at the head/handle spot (RCBS will replace their kinetic puller if it breaks). The RCBS collet pullet is really not much good for pulling lead pistol bullets, a pair of pliars is a better way of pulling them. Don`t think you need a `Farmer` type severe crimp. You will only make a pressure jump and make it almost impossible to pull boolets out.

GET MORE DIFFERENT TYPES OF LEAD! Latch onto linotype, wheel weights, pure lead, mono type (printers letters) and of course tin. Alloy can be made up using any or just by themselves for different boolet types.

As far as sizeing the cast boolets without investing is a luber, dies, top punches and lubes. Look at the LEE push thru sizers and tumble lubing.

Otherwise you seem to be on the right track for equipment. Good luck.Robert

[Lead Fred]

I must be doing it wrong all these years, I dont use half that stuff.

Lee moulds and a Lyman book, are like putting Chevy wheels on a Ford

and how about some X-Lox now that you have all tumble lube moulds?

[country gent]

As to the press a Lee c frame is quick simple and easy to use for small batch reloading or sizing bullets with the push thru sizers. I dont use lees tubs on mine I bought a piece of tygon tubing that slips over the die 4' long and run it down into a container. bullets push thru then arounf the tubing and slowly slide or are pushed into container. If you want real fancy a rock chucker or other c-frame press works also. The only presses that may be an issue with sizing bullets are the co ax nd rcbs summit as the top linkage and sizers interfer with each other. The simple little Lee c frame press works great for push thru sizing collet bullet pullers and small batches of reloading ammo. A good scales and set of check wieghts are a big plus. A RCBS 505 or if you can find one 510 are good. Actually almost any beam scales in good condition ( and verified accurate with the check wieghts) is fine. As to digitals I have a gem pro that I like a lot, sinclairs sells some good ones also. Alot of digitals dont lend themselves to trickling powder charges to slow and when they register a change your past it. But there are some very good ones out there. resolution and accuracy are important to a digital scales operation.

[JSnover]

Your equipment seems pretty well covered. I assume you're smart enough to wear decent clothing: Gloves, eye/face protection, don't make ingots in shorts and flip-flops.

[Ural Driver]

Lots of good info in those replies. I got a note from a member that he had a Lyman 450 available.....it is on its way to my house as I type this. I am still pricing scales, leaning towards the RCBS 505, 510 or the 1010..... I'll keep y'all posted on what I find......but if any of ya'll have some unused scales sitting around that you wanna part with I would trust those on this forum over fleabay....
And yes, I do wear clothes that fit the task.

[Pee Wee]

Mike
PM on its way to you.

Pee Wee

Lots of good info in those replies. I got a note from a member that he had a Lyman 450 available.....it is on its way to my house as I type this. I am still pricing scales, leaning towards the RCBS 505, 510 or the 1010..... I'll keep y'all posted on what I find......but if any of ya'll have some unused scales sitting around that you wanna part with I would trust those on this forum over fleabay....
And yes, I do wear clothes that fit the task.

[Ural Driver]

Mike
PM on its way to you.

Pee Wee

Reply comin back atcha......

[Taterhead]

I'm also gathering gear and supplies to begin casting, but I'm an experienced loader.

I'll also recommend the RCBS 5-0-5, but they are no longer in production. You could get a used one and RCBS will still support it. The Dillon beam scale is also made by Ohaus and is virtually identical. Go with whatever is better priced.

No matter what scale, I always recommend check weights like the basic set from RCBS. Electronic scales will come with calibration weights. Calibration weights are not the same thing as check weights. The RCBS check weights will enable verification of the scale in increments of 0.5 grains.

EDITED TO ADD:

Arguably one of the best manuals for explaining reloading is the Speer #14. I recommend it to new loaders. It has nice separate sections for pistol and rifle loading. A great step by step guide.

[Oklahoma Rebel]

definitely get the books from lee, 2nd edition,and lyman casting and loading. you really don't need all that much ,although I will admit, I am extremely jealous of you. I have been casting for over a year using a turkey fryer, a couple pots, a couple 20 dollar lee molds, a lyman ladle, (which I really like) and a 25 dollar lee sizer. I made my own boolit lube. I have been making perfectly acceptable boolits whenever I need to. I have both those books, and before I started I did nothing but read and research on the internet, and I still am learning everyday, and will continue for the rest of my life. the quest for knowledge is neverending, though it might change direction occasionally. Best of luck to you, you have a head start on a lot of us so as long as you research and use common sense you should be fine.have a good day,
Travis

[Ural Driver]

Just found an "in the box" (stamped Mfg. NJ) RCBS 5-0-5 at what appears to be an acceptable price.....it's on the way to the house along with a set of Ohaus check weights and a set of Lee shell holders. Ordered another 50# of Lyman #2 and a couple of ladles from RotoMetals. Oh yeah, got one of their lead thermometers also. Still lookin for a press.........and a place to put all this stuff....

[Mytmousemalibu]

For the money, the Lee classic cast single stage is a darn good machine! Of course you can't go wrong with a Rockchucker or JR2, etc. Redding makes some really great stuff too but again, you usually pay for it.

I didn't see anything for cleaning brass in your list. Some guys get by not cleaning it but I personally don't like running dirty brass through my machines, especially nasty range pick-up brass which you will probably come across or just bulk mixed brass purchases. If you do any black powder, you'll want to neutralize & clean your brass for sure. There are plenty of liquid cleaners like a citric acid mixed bath that does pretty good but keep in mind that will leach zinc from the brass to some degree based on the strength of the solution. I use hot citric baths on gas lantern parts but not my gun brass.

An old fashioned vibratory tumbler will do the job pretty well. I have a Berrys/Cabelas unit that works good and has a good warranty. Some are better than others. You will also need some media, corn cob or walnut. Reptile bedding is cheap and good. Most add a little bit of polish/cleaner to the media too. You will need a separator/sifter/hand tumbler too.

I have moved entirely to wet tumbling with stainless pin media. I am picky about my brass being clean, primer pockets included. If you are handy, it isn't hard to make a drum tumbler for wet media tumbling but the Frankford Arsenal machine gets good accolades and would probably suit you just fine, everything needed is included. Initial cost to wet tumble is higher but in the long run it is cheaper and nothing cleans better. If you want pretty brass, wet tumbling will deliver that also. The nastiest, filthy brass will come out looking brand spanking new. All I want is c-l-e-a-n!

Some more food for thought!