First steel mold - how to store after use

[ghh3rd]

I am about to receive my first steel mold, and just realized that I haven't thought about how I need to treat/store it. All of my other molds are either aluminum or brass.

Should I wipe all surfaces down with oil after each use and then of course throroughly clean before each use?

I was thinking I would store it and any future steel molds in my gun safe, in which I have some vapor sponges and a heater.

Thanks,

Randy

[Outpost75]

Use either Kano Kroil or pure USP mineral oil from the pharmacy only.

These will sublime away, leaving no residue when you pre-heat the blocks on a hot plate. Use a 350 degree Tempilstik crayon mark on sprue plate to determine proper pre-heat temperature, depending upon ambient temperature in your casting area. I use a cheap Proctor-Silex hot plate with a piece of ceramic tile placed over the Calrod to evenly distribute heat to the blocks.

[EMC45]

I use either Kroil or a standard gun oil on a lube brush to wipe the cavities after casting. When ready to use again I just heat the mold and pour lead. The oil disappears quickly.

[country gent]

There are several ways to "store" your new mould that work. Kroil oil does good and protects the mould. I use it on moulds alot. 2 cycle motor oil works good and alot use it to lube moulds pins alighnment holes, pivot points and sprue plate, so its a aldready there protectant.For long term I use a paraffin and oil mix (1lb of parrafin melted with 2 teaspoons of a good oil blennded into it). I apply this to the mould blocks and handles while still hot from casting. It melts and flows covering the blocks in a coating that is thick and dosnt run off over time. Only takes a minute to apply. Removeal can be a little harder but boiling the mould or heating it softens the coating and allows it to be removed. You can use bullet lube for this also. How you perserve depends on How long the mould is going to set. Overnight little is needed 2-3 weeks light oil a few months a heavier oil year or more the bullet lube or paraffin.

[ghh3rd]

I didn't realize that Kroil would just disappear from a mold with heat - sounds very convenient! I just happen to have two cans.

[gwpercle]

Another product that will not contaminate cavities is Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant.
After cleaning , I give all surfaces a coat , I use the liquid ( also comes in a spray) and apply it with a Q-Tip , gives more control , two light coats on all surfaces , blocks and sprue plates ....no rust and living in Louisiana , fighting rust is a way of life.
This stuff also acts as a mould release , boolits just jump out of a coated cavity.

Gary

[Le Loup Solitaire]

I use a product called Clenzoil. It has to be removed before casting so I soak the blocks in acetone, wipe them dry and then preheat before using. Acetone is nasty stuff so use in a well ventilated area. I keep my molds in an old GI ammo can...never had a problem with rust. LLS

[ghh3rd]

Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant sounds good - just another few $ to invest in this $ saving hobby

[Yodogsandman]

I clean the mold first, wiping away any lead smears while the mold is still hot. After it cools down, I spray it down with Kroil and store it in a zip lock bag with a little desiccant pack. I've used gun oil in the past, too. I store mine indoors in a closet. Temperature controlled and dry.

[runfiverun]

I don't live in a humid area so I just throw them in the drawer and leave e'm alone till next time.
if it's been a long time since I used them i'll hit the whole drawer with a little bit of oil making sure I mist everything down.
the whole pile of molds spent 5-6 years in a shed and I had just misted them all down and stored them in a 5 gallon bucket with the lid sealed and the rows separated by waxed paper.

if I lived in Fl. like the o/p, I'd do what outpost say's but also put them in a plastic bag or little box to protect them from the air.

[alamogunr]

I keep my molds in plastic containers, either purchased or saved from other uses. I throw a small desiccant capsule from my pharmacist son into each container. Replace about every 6 months. Since my shop is heated and A/C, the 6 months is my best estimate. Other conditions may dictate earlier replacement.

[dtknowles]

I keep mine unoiled, in VPI paper and VPI Plastic bags

Tim

[Wild Bill 7]

Maybe I'm all wet but I leave my iron molds with the last pour in them and reheat on next casting session. I live in "Paradise" and my molds are rust free in this humid climate. Been doing this for 15 years or so also. I leave mine in the garage in a drawer in one of my benches. RCBS, H&G, Saceo and Lyman molds. Knock on wood so no rust will appear. ��

[William Yanda]

dry, very dry-expanded to meet minimum message length.

[ghh3rd]

Interesting, quite a variety of methods being practiced.

[toallmy]

Never stop casting , would work .

[kokomokid]

I wrap mine in VPI paper and store in a surplus sealing ammo box. No oil to clean up.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

I use to coat my iron molds in Kroil and store 'em in a baggie in a cardboard box, then I got some airtight food storage containers, and figured I no longer needed to coat them in Kroil. This has worked well for most of my iron molds I should add, I live in MN, and we do get some warm humid weather in the summer. Then I learned something. Not all iron molds are made of the same alloy. Some develop a patina and resist rust, even in poor storage conditions...except for maybe the occasional finger print on the outside. I've bought Lyman and Saeco molds that were poorly stored and showed little signs of corrosion. On the other hand, my newer Iron Ballisti-cast mold, that hasn't developed a patina yet, seems to really like to rust,even when carefully handled after a casting session and stored in a airtight container...So now, I do coat that one with Kroil.