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Thread: using shell holders in your kinetic bullet puller

  1. #21
    Boolit Master Garyshome's Avatar
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    I use the Priming Tool Shell Holder Works pretty well.

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
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    Was using a shell holder in my first inertia puller and managed to break the tube in half right above the handle. The holder took off behind a shelf in the reloading room and I still haven't found it. Use the broken portion of tube along with handle to tap open the sprue plates when casting, so it wasn't a total loss; but I'm a little more gentle with number 2.
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  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
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    I've always disliked trying to stretch the o-ring collet over a case, and ususally fumble with it for a while. My hammer puller came with three collets too, but it's too much hassle to use them so I've always used shell holders. But it's best to not need to pull any bullets, don't screw up yer ammo in the first place...
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  4. #24
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Garyshome View Post
    I use the Priming Tool Shell Holder Works pretty well.
    Do you mean the Lee Priming Tool shellholder?...

    That would be great if that is the case as I have to complete collection of them...

    Thanks...BCB

  5. #25
    Boolit Master


    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I still use collets here.

    totally agree on light wacks vs. heavy ones. First and only time I set off primer and some of the powder was a day I will always remember, kinda takes your breath away of a couple of secondss
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  6. #26
    Boolit Master zuke's Avatar
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    Work's great for me!

  7. #27
    Boolit Master Cowboy_Dan's Avatar
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    It's been working vreat for me since I saw a video by the Ammosmith where he suggests doing it. Haven't buggered up any rims or set off any primers, but the shellholders are a nearly exact fit in mine. It's a combination of exact model and tollerances and I got lucky. I think mine is a Frankford Arsenal, but it could probably happen with many brands.
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  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy




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    Wanted to add to this thread the tip in the instructions to "let the hammer be loose in your hand after impact." For example you hold the hammer/puller tight fisted up until the instant it strikes the table then let it be very loose in your hand almost like you let go of it but are catching it again. On a crimped cartridge it nearly always comes loose in one or two instead of 3 strikes if I do this. I don't get why and I'm sure a physics teacher can tell me, but it really does work faster. I always thought it would work best gripped tightly but I have proven myself wrong many times now and the instructions are definitely right, as much as it pains me to say so.

    The primer detonating possibility makes some sense given a unique set of circumstances being met. Could we avoid that possibility by just keeping the shell-holder opening on the user-side of the hammer, so swinging inertia keeps the case fully seated in the holder? Seems like that would do it, any experience to the contrary?

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check