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Thread: Is this mold damaged, I need an expert opinion...

  1. #1
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    Is this mold damaged, I need an expert opinion...

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    I have plenty of experience with old Ideal molds and Lyman molds but I have never purchased or used an aluminum mold. I recently purchased this mold and noticed the scratching in two of the cavities and then more concerning was what looks like erosion around the edges of the cavities or maybe lead deposits... or I'm nuts and the mold is fine. I know I should cast with it and see what it drops but I am worried if I "use" it I will potentially worsen the situation and not be able to return it if needed. Please smack this aluminum mold newb with some knowledge. Thanks!
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Boolit_Head's Avatar
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    It looks like lead deposits and someone might have scraped trying to get them off. Try heating the mold up and rubbing it with a coarse cloth and see if it comes off. You could also try some wood matchsticks or a softer wood to "prod" it when warm to see if you can get it off.
    On every question of construction let us carry ourselves back to the time when the Constitution was adopted, recollect the spirit manifested in the debates, and instead of trying what meaning may be squeezed out of the text or invented against it, conform to the probable one in which it was passed.

    Thomas Jefferson, letter to William Johnson, June 12, 1823

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If this is a brand new mould , from the maker....Send it back. Even Lee moulds don't look like this !
    It's messed up. The two NOE aluminum I recently purchased were beautifully polished, mirror bright , inside and out. I can't see the pins but if it came from NOE , send Swede Nelson this photo .
    But something tells me this one is used...and the former owner was too heavy handed with abrasives.
    Not sure if he can fix this. Might want to return it or see if undamaged cavities will drop proper boolits.

    My advice is return it and use the money for an undamaged new mould.
    Gary

  4. #4
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    to me it looks like the mould was used and too high a heat on the mould was used because it shows signs of finning.

    I'd take a bar of lead and try to scrape off the "finning" around the edges of the cavity. I'd try this when the mould is hot.

    Try casting with it an see what happens.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master maxreloader's Avatar
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    This is a NOE mold that I bought from somebody that described it as "In Excellent Condition". I only saw the scrapes when I held it in the light to figure out what the heck was going on with the cavities... I'm not sure I want to mess-around with it in case I make anything worse. I now appreciate my iron molds a lot more lol!
    Looking for Ideal mold 419181 (44 Evans Long)
    "Joined Dates" are deceiving if you factor-in "lurk" dates.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master dkf's Avatar
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    I doubt you'll have any problems from those very fine scratches. Don't look like they are in the cavities and the edges of the cavities still look sharp. I'd clean off the finned lead with the base of a bullet and cast some bullets with it. Inspect the cast bullets and mic them.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master 243winxb's Avatar
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    Not "In Excellent Condition". Return for refund.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
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    It may work fine, it may not; but it is definitely not "In Excellent Condition".

    Robert

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I agree, the mold is not in excellent condition and was misrepresented. The mold is permanently damaged, if you can, I would ask for a refund. Ignoring the scratches, it appears that there is a lead build up on the mold faces, which is going to keep the mold from closing properly.

    If you end up having to keep the mold then from the photo it appears the scratches on the mold faces are unsightly, but shouldn't affect the bullets. Any scratches in the cavities are there unless polished out. The big problem I see is the extensive lead buildup. To remove the lead the recommended method of heating and wiping is worth a try, but I am going to bet that's not going to work.

    If it were my mold I would do a a 1/1 mix of white vinegar and hydrogen peroxide; you can find both at any supermarket. I would start by dipping a Q-tip into the mix and rubbing the lead deposits. Hopefully some or most will come off. If the deposits are more stubborn then dip the eraser end of a pencil into the mix and rub the deposits with the wet eraser. You will probably see the liquid on the surface start to turn black; this is lead oxide that is slowly being removed from the surface. Keep repeating the rub on wipe off. This process may take a little while, but you should be able to get the lead dissolved and rubbed off.

  10. #10
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    Let the seller know you are not happy and that you will cast some and measure them. If they are not what you want diameter wise or fin excessively, return them. I don't think you can tell from just looking you may be surprised. If the seller does not want you to cast and show return it.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    put some Bullplate on all the lead flashing. Let it sit for 5 minutes and scrape off with a chop stick.

    If you get the flashing while casting put some Bullplate on a cotton rag and wipe the flashing off. It works great.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check