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Thread: Shop tips

  1. #41
    Boolit Master twotoescharlie's Avatar
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    shop tips

    for mixing small amounts of epoxy or bedding compound, turn a beer or soda can upside down , nice little place on bottom for mixing.

    TTC
    NRA life member (benefactor)

  2. #42
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    My in-laws just arived for a 3 week + visit. I may not have the time or sanity to add to this for a while.........

  3. #43
    Boolit Master carpetman's Avatar
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    Shop tip---When inlaws come for a three week visit. Keep several cans of beans in your shop. Eat several cans of these daily(don't let inlaws know about these or have any of them). Maybe they will cut visit to two weeks or maybe just one week.

  4. #44
    Boolit Master

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    LOL....... Carpetman, he, hee.

    I feel for ya Bret..

  5. #45
    Boolit Master
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    Carpetman, was an article in the daily paper the other day. Seems one woman was protesting the use of cat skins to make fur coats. She had a coat made outta 20 cat skins. Seems in some eastern european countries 2-3000 cats per week go missing. Yup you guessed it, theys cat skin coats now. And now so's I don't get yelled at for being off topic here is my suggestion for shop tips. Lubrication for your lathe. I keep separate oil cans, all different for each of the lubricants, cutting oils I use in my shop.
    And may I add that good secure footing should be observed in your shops. By this I mean not having to climb over and around anything on the floor. Keep the floors clean. STP makes a decent lube for those solid lathe centers in the tailstock. But someone suggested using breakin oil for new engines. Never tried it as I could never find any at the local auto parts supply houses. Frank

  6. #46
    Boolit Master
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    [QUOTE=Frank46. But someone suggested using breakin oil for new engines. Never tried it as I could never find any at the local auto parts supply houses. Frank[/QUOTE]

    Frank,

    You're in luck! never in my life did I buy that line of " that engine's got break in oil in it" until now.

    I bought a new JD tractor last summer and the owners manual plainly states the engine is filled with 'break in oil' and to run it for 100 hours. Furthermore (where your luck comes in) JOHN DEERE SELLS BREAK IN OIL! So, if you happen to have a JD tractor dealership nearby...they should have it on the shelf. I suppose they sell it so you can top off any use in a new engine or for use in a newly rebuilt engine. I haven't got a clue what it's secret properties are...looks like regular oil to me on the dipstick.
    I'm shufflin' thru the Texas sand..... but my head's in Mississippi

  7. #47
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    From what I've learned in my engine building experience break in oil use to be a non detergent single weight oil. Detergent oil suspends the dirt that it may pick up in an engine. Non Detergent oil does not. That means the dirt gets left in the oil pan mostly. You don't want dirt suspended in the oil during break in. Yeah the filter is supposely filter this stuff out. It's even hard to find non detergent oil anymore, especially at places like Auto Zone. I would imagine NAPA still sells it.

    I'll bet you that John Deere break in oil is really expensive and it's a rip off if it is.

    Joe

  8. #48
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    .............For excellent quality low cost oil for firearms use about a year ago I switched over to 2 of those I use on my lathe and mill. One I use is 'Way oil' and I use this on the 2 automatics I own and on bolt lugs and thier races. It is a clear oil that has 3 additives that make it attractive for this. One is an anti 'stick slip' and another is one to make it sticky.

    Not sticky like holding a candy cane too long, but it's designed to adhere to prismatic machine ways and not just run off. Finally it has extreme pressure additives. Machine gibbs and ways are a direct metal to metal contact and this oil tends to stay between them.

    The other oil is 'Spindle Oil' which is a highly refined clear non-detergent light oil of about 10 wt used for high speed precision rotating assemblies like lathe spindles in plainbearings, high speed ball bearings and etc. This oil is used on fine internal parts like inside bolts, triggers and pistol lockwork. Neither form sticky gummy residues over time.

    Best of all you can pick them up for between $12 and $15 a gallon. Any of the regular gun market oils in that quantity would probably run a grand a gallon.

    I don't think it the best for external metal perservation as any oil leaving a sheen will attract and capture lint, dust and the like. For that, for normal and not long term storage I like the silicone impregnated rag wipedown.

    ..............Buckshot
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  9. #49
    Boolit Master
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    Jumptrap, thanks for the john deere tip. There is a dealership not too far from here. Will check it out. You'd think an auto parts place would sell breakin oil. I get vacant stares every time I ask.
    Buckshot, I purchased both the way oil and DTE medium heavy gear oil from the local mobil
    oil dealer here in town. I had to get 5 gallon pails as this was the smallest size they sold. Probably have enough to last as long as I live. I had a friend that every other oil change would flush out his engine with DTE light. He'd dump the old oil put in 4-5 quarts dte light run the engine then dump the dte and filter. Put in new filter and regular motor oil. The dte light was used for lubrication fof steam turbines so maybe there was a method to his madness. Frank

  10. #50
    Boolit Master twotoescharlie's Avatar
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    non detergent oil

    wally world has it in the auto dept. I use the 30w in all of my mowers as I change oil often.

    TTC
    NRA life member (benefactor)

  11. #51
    Boolit Master Ricochet's Avatar
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    Smile

    Buckshot, I've gone to using ISO 22 spindle oil, which is equivalent in viscosity to the old SAE 5. Noticeably less viscous than ATF, which is about ISO 34 or SAE 10 viscosity. It's nondetergent, with rust and oxidation inhibitors, and has excellent demulcent (water rejecting) properties. (Dexron III ATF contains detergents and forms very stable emulsions with water, a disadvantage for gun lubrication.) Here's where you can get a gallon of it for about $8 plus shipping. They also have it in 5 gallon containers, if you prefer.

    http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PMPXNO=944170

    There are less viscous spindle oils for higher speed service, ISO viscosity grades 15, 10, 6, 4 and 2. The numbers are the kinematic viscosities in centipoise at 40°C. For reference, the viscosity of #2 Diesel fuel at the reference temperature of 40°C is about 6-8 centipoise, and water is about 1 cP.

    I use the spindle oil in the tone generator of my Hammond organ too. The most proper stuff for it's ISO 10, but that was chosen because lots of Hammonds sit around in unheated chapels. Mine doesn't. ISO 22's not going to make my rifle bolt stick in any temperature I'm going to go out in, either!
    "A cheerful heart is good medicine."

  12. #52
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    Couple quickies-

    Although Brownells sell these really nice 6" long swabs, for 99.9% of gun/shop work generic Q-tips work great. That .1% of the time those 6" swabs really help.

    You cold blue guys got to remember- DEGREASE everything associated with the process, especially the steel wool! I had problems cold bluing after Dad died until I recalled him degreasing the wool. Big difference.

    Learn how to make vise jaws. Leather, wood, copper, rubber, plastic all have their palce.

    Keep your eye's open for hunks of copper or brass that will work as punches. I found a 1"x8" hunka brass along the road one day (the 1 beneift of crawling around under trucks). What a great drift!

  13. #53
    Boolit Master
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    Back in my dumpster diving days, I used to find old valves that had brass valve stems. Would pour some penetrating oil on them and let sit for a day or so. I'd go into the dumpster and take em apart. Don't laugh you'd be suprised what gets tossed. I have at least three 1/2hp motors which over the years have become various buffers, replacement for burned out drill press motor. Of course at age 59 my diving days are over. Getting in isn't so bad as getting out. Frank

  14. #54
    Boolit Master Topper's Avatar
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    Avert damage during disassembly/reassembly

    Very interesting and informative post.
    One tip I picked up years back is how to avoid damaging the finish on weapons during disassembly.
    Cover the area with masking tape and rub the tape until you can see the screw or pin you want to remove.
    Screws will back and pins will push through without and leave the surrounding area of tape in place.
    If you have a slip-up, there will not be any damage or at least it will be far less.
    Note: I wish more gunsmiths would utilize this, it really urks me to have work done and get it back with a scratch or a nick.

  15. #55
    Boolit Bub
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    Stripped female threads

    Greetings, Gentlemen,

    Occasionally, during my restoration projects, I will run into a threaded hole that is stripped. The screw will be in acceptable condition. For one reason or another going to a larger size is out of the question, or just want to keep the original screw size, I have found that Loctite Form-A-Thread repairs the internal thread and is amazingly strong. Best of all, the repair is invisible and undetectable.
    Regards, Ralph.
    Boy, I love these old guns.....

  16. #56
    Cast Hunter




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    Good pipe cleaners?

    Does anyone know where to get the cotton type of pipe cleaners. Not the nylon "chenille" type that you buy at Walmart (and also used for crafts) and not the kind with that come with the tough bristles spread throughout. The kind I'm talking about is used by the US Army to clean M16s, M9s, etc. They work much better than that non-absorbent chenille **** and I can't seem to find them anywhere. I haven't checked an actual smoke shop yet. Haven't seen one around here locally.

  17. #57
    Boolit Master Topper's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RugerFan
    Does anyone know where to get the cotton type of pipe cleaners. Not the nylon "chenille" type that you buy at Walmart (and also used for crafts) and not the kind with that come with the tough bristles spread throughout. The kind I'm talking about is used by the US Army to clean M16s, M9s, etc. They work much better than that non-absorbent chenille **** and I can't seem to find them anywhere. I haven't checked an actual smoke shop yet. Haven't seen one around here locally.
    Hi Rugerfan.
    Try this link: All Cotton Pipe Cleaners

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Topper
    Hi Rugerfan.
    Try this link: All Cotton Pipe Cleaners
    Thanks Topper that looks like the critter.

  19. #59
    Boolit Master
    fiberoptik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by carpetman
    Shop tip---When inlaws come for a three week visit. Keep several cans of beans in your shop. Eat several cans of these daily(don't let inlaws know about these or have any of them). Maybe they will cut visit to two weeks or maybe just one week.

    Nah, the real head turner is fried eggs, refries, and those nice little cans of jalepeno's purreed with just a little of the juice & a dash of salt, plus lots of garlic. I can vouch for this one. I was in the movies in Mex. and my in-law's left me by myself I reeked so bad. Someone with a nose even started dissin me. My Pop-in-law said, " I don't know him!" THIS will get rid off offending family mooches! To be extra rank, eat it 2x a day, daily. I'm soo blessed not to have a sense of smell....

  20. #60
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    Bret4207's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips. They left a few days ago. Now I need about a months vacation to catch up on all the **** I didn't get done due to the "babysitting".

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check