Build it up with weld. Don't need to worry about heat treat on the rear of the action, just don't quench after welding.
May I suggest some heat stop welding paste. When it came out one of the demonstrations was to apply the paste on a flat piece of steel on both sides. Then while holding it bare handed the other end was heated with an oxy atetelene torch. Really does work. You could have the broken stubs tig welded to minimize the heat affected zone as well. Brownells sells the paste if I remember right, or any good welding supply house. Frank
That's broken........ send it to me for proper disposal.
I have fixed one that had the same problem. Dont need to worry about heat damaging the rear of that action, just tig the ears back on with the front half wrapped in a damp cloth.
Last edited by autofix4u; 03-12-2016 at 12:58 AM. Reason: Can't type..
Thank you for your replies I'll be removing the blueing so I can take it to a local guy I know to be tig welded.
looks like a silver solder job to me. silver solder would be strong enuf and easily done, though it would leave a joint line that will not blue, which you wouldn't see under the bolt stop lever, anyway.
Another vote for silver brazing.
EDG
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |