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Thread: Winchester SL 401 buffers

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Winchester SL 401 buffers

    I took my 1910 Winchester Self Loader .401 apart to clean it and discovered that there are no recoil buffers. I can't find an exploded view diagram for this rifle. Does anyone know if that model still used the recoil buffers, and are they the same ones as those for the .35 and .351?

    update: I asked on the vintage semi auto rifle forum and learned that the buffers are inside a metal cylinder, not like the .35 or .351.
    Now I gotta find some new buffers.
    Last edited by Battis; 03-09-2016 at 02:03 AM.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Another buffer question:
    In Henwood's book, THE FORGOTTEN WINCHESTERS, he says, "Model 1910 rifles use a cupped "buffer pocket" at the rear, and a shaped washer at the front."
    I'm guessing that the "buffer pocket" is the metal cylinder that holds two buffers (at the end of the bolt recoil spring). Does anyone have any more info on those buffers?
    Currently, there are no buffers made specifically for that rifle so I'll alter two buffers from the .351 Winchester.

  3. #3
    Boolit Mold
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    I know it's been awhile since you made this post, but I was wondering how things turned out regarding altering two .351 buffers to work in the .401 SL. Maybe you can provide me with some info, as I am in need of the buffer pocket (mine is missing) or at least the dimensions so I can make one. Also..... what thickness did you end up with when using two of the .351 buffers?

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    I went to the Buffalo Bill Museum in Cody, Wy, and they had a WSL .401 on display. I took a pic of it and from that pic, I determined the thickness of the buffer. I didn't use one full buffer and part of another - I cut them as equally as I could to make the thickness.
    I determined the thickness based on the dimensions of the metal holder in the pic. Yours would be different without the metal holder.
    I'll check mine to see what thickness I used.

  5. #5
    Boolit Mold
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    Thank you Battis for a quick reply. I need to make a buffer holder (pocket). To do so, I need some measurements as to how long it is and the diameter. I'm assuming the outside diameter is the same as that of the buffer washer and the lug on the barrel as they seem to be the same from the picture you provided. I'm also assuming the inside diameter is the same as the outside diameter of the buffer, which I have ordered from Numerich. Could you possibly give me the measurements so I'm not just assuming? I'm hoping you are familiar with these parts, so I'll also ask another question...... does the buffer washer and buffer pocket have a flat on one side to go against the barrel?

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I'll get some measurements and pics tonight. I also have a WSL in .32, .35 and .351, but the .401 is the only one with a pocket/cup to hold the buffers. Do you need a metal pocket? I'm not sure, but, like I said, I'll get some pics and measurements.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    Maybe this will help:
    The visible body of the metal pocket is approx .54" long
    The cover/washer that fits over the buffer is approx. .08" thick
    The overall length of the pocket and cover with the buffers inside is approx. .65"
    I know, the math doesn't add up, but I measured with the pocket in the rifle, so the body is slightly longer.
    The washer has a rim that will fit inside the body if there's no buffer (or a worn buffer). The gap between the cover washer and the body shows that the buffers are thick enough. When I originally took the pocket apart, the cover was touching the body. I based the thickness of the buffers on that gap.
    The guide rod goes right through the pocket cover/washer and pocket to the post on the left.

    This forum has lots of good info. Blackbahart is (or was) a member here.
    https://vintagesemiautorifle.proboar...recoil-buffers
    Last edited by Battis; 07-01-2020 at 06:33 PM.

  8. #8
    Boolit Mold
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    You did me a great favor with the info and your pics are helpful as well. In your previous message you asked if I need a metal pocket/cup. Yes I do! I have the washer/cover, but no pocket/cup and therefore no buffer. If you know of a source for the buffer pocket/cup please pass it along. It will save me from trying to make one. Using your measurements of .54 for the pocket/cup and .08 for the washer, my math equates this to .62. Taking into account your overall measurement assembled with the buffer installed, came to .65. that would leave a gap of .03 for the buffer to extend out of the pocket/cup. If you don't know of a source for the buffer pocket/cap, I think I will be able to manufacture one using the measurements you provided.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
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    I was wondering if the pocket is needed at all, since the other three models don't use one, and Numrich doesn't sell them (or show them). The guide rod will hold the buffers in place. It's too bad that the info that led to the use of the cup is long gone.

  10. #10
    Boolit Mold
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    I'm not certain, but I think that without the buffer pocket/cup giving support around the buffers, they may squash or flatten out too quickly. Keeping them confined within the pocket/cup would tend to prevent this from happening. They may even break apart without support from the pocket/cup. The other models had a recessed opening in the lug below and integral with the barrel, which held the buffers. I'm no gun designer or engineer but there must have been a reason they made it the way they did.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    As I said, mine didn't have any effective buffers when I got the gun. Luckily, nothing was busted or split. Great gun. I call it The Big Ouch. Let me know if you need more pics or info.
    Check out https://www.poppertsgunparts.com/parts.htm, or even ebay. Sometimes you can get lucky.

  12. #12
    Boolit Mold
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    Thanks for all your help. Greatly appreciated!

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy blackbahart's Avatar
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    the 1905s have less recoil than the 1907 in 351 and the 1910 in 401 .I made up a 1907 in a 300 BO and the recoil did bust up the un supported buffer ,and then made up a cup and cap ,, all is good now.
    So I would suggest the cup should be sourced or if you have a friend with a lathe they are easy enough to make out of tool steel

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