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Thread: Powder Coat Primer

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Powder Coat Primer

    How I tumble powder coat with great results:

    1) Get this Rubbermaid plastic bowl: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o07_s00

    2) Put in a few layers of these black plastic airsoft pellets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o04_s00

    3) Throw in four or five handfuls of bullets. Use these nitrile gloves to avoid getting body oils on the bullets. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o09_s00

    4) Sprinkle in enough of this paint to cover the bullets: http://t.harborfreight.com/16-oz-pow...red-93309.html If you want other colors buy paint from smokes4321 on this site. He also sells plastic airsoft pellets and is great to work with. His paint is a bit more expensive but is easier to work with With harbor Freight paint be sure to follow the instructions on the bottle.

    5) Put on leather slippers or moccasins in order to enhance the pick up of free electrons (static electricity). While shaking and swirling the container drag your feet on carpet as though you are skating. Don't lift your feet up. Winter dryness helps a lot. This only takes 20-30 seconds.

    6) Set the bowl down for a minute to let the dust settle and then open the lid and check for paint coverage. It should be fine but if not repeat step 5. You might need to add a little paint. If coverage is still poor you it might because the humidity is high enough to prevent enough static electricity build up. I've not tried it but Smokes says that preheating the bullets to 150F removes the need for static electricity with his excellent paint.

    7) With a nitrile glove on run your thumb and finger along the inside of the bowl to put paint on them and then place your bullets on an aluminum tray with a silicon baking sheet cut to fit the bottom. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s01 and http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o00_s00

    7) Place the tray into a preheated toaster oven at 400F. Monitor the bullet temperature with this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01...ilpage_o02_s00 You want the bullets to bake for 10 minutes after they hit 400F. You will need to fine tune the knob for temp as they are not accurate. Every time that you open the oven door to check the temp you lose a lot of heat so be quick and don't do it to often.

    8) Remove your beautiful bullets from the oven, let them cool, and you are ready to size.

    If gas checks are needed put them on before painting if they fit well. If they are too loose put them on after.

    Painting adds up to .004 to the bullet diameter so size after painting.

    This is very easy to do and is cheaper and quicker than buying and using a lubrasizer. The bullets don't smoke, lube doesn't foul up your dies and gun, and you can handle your bullets without gloves after they are painted. Paint also lets you get away with softer alloys.

    The heating of the bullets for painting removes the effect of any previous heat treatment (water dropping or oven heat treating) so you need to control your hardness with your alloy.

    Note! You don't need to wade through hundreds of pages of stickies or buy a paint gun to get dazzling results. Just do the above and you will soon be an expert.

    Also I have not had the need to rinse my bullets in acetone first to degrease then. Not touching them seems to be enough.

    Keep it simple and have fun!
    Last edited by rjathon; 03-02-2016 at 06:03 PM. Reason: Feedback revealed that 10 minutes is long enough.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master Pine Baron's Avatar
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    Nice summary, tip on nitrile gloves is a good one, ask me how I know .
    Let every nation know, whether it wishes us well or ill, that we shall pay any price, bear any burden, meet any hardship, support any friend, oppose any foe, in order to assure the survival and the success of liberty.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master
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    this is absolutely THE BEST tutorial I have read anywhere on the process. I printed it out to save as a reference.

    thank you,

    Rich

  4. #4
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    Walter Laich's Avatar
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    I 'cook' them for 10 min at 400F but other than that great primer
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  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy

    NC_JEFF's Avatar
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    Great write-up, most everyone should be able to get results equal to yours if they follow our directions.

  6. #6
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    Hickok's Avatar
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    That is really a good instruction sheet. Well thought-out and easy to understand.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
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    Thank you. I waded through many pages of information and was very slow to get started due to a lack of concise info. I finally jumped in and then pm'd someone who seemed to know a lot and with his help it went well.

    I thought it would be nice to help others get going more quickly.

    The advantages of PC are many. Because it adds dimension molds that throw too small a bullet are useful. It is so easy. Once you do it you will be hooked.

  8. #8
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    StuBach's Avatar
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    Your write-up plus smoke's powders made it work for me, thanks.

  9. #9
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    Agree with Walter 10min is all I have ever needed on bake time
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  10. #10
    Boolit Bub
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    Can you overcook the powder coat? I got a couple of different powders from Smoke. The JD green came out great. The gloss black was a day or two later. It definitely didn't cover as well and the coat is chipping off in some spots. I did get distracted and might have started the timer well after the powder turned shiny.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master

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    Todd, I have too have noticed black can be a little a splotchy for me at times. But it might be that the silver color of the boolits just is so contrasting to the black color. I do know that when spray painting, black can be difficult to get looking perfect.
    Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting

  12. #12
    Boolit Bub
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    I actually had little flakes of black chip off. It wasn't on every boolit either. I did two batches and think one batch cooked OK, but the other didn't. The JD green came out great. I also did a smash test on the green with all of the powder coat staying on the boolit. I know that it is good powder, I'm just trying to figure out where I went wrong. I probably should not have had the Terps game on when I was coating. lol

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
    bangerjim's Avatar
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    Good summary.

    3 things:

    1. bake for 10 min only after powder turns shiny is all that is really needed. Save time...save electricity $$....bake 10 min. 100% quality for every boolit I have ever bake (many many thousands!!!)

    2. Don't call it "paint". It is technically a polymer jacket. So many sny-sayers love to call this painting silly little boolits. They just do not get it. Never will. The new name we are now using thanks to dragonheart is "polymer jacketed" boolits. I like it!

    3. I and many still prefer using REAL medical hemostats (not fish hook pliers or tweezers) to pick up boolits. Fast and leaves absolutely zero blemishes on the finish.

    Thanks for you post.

    banger

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hickok View Post
    Todd, I have too have noticed black can be a little a splotchy for me at times. But it might be that the silver color of the boolits just is so contrasting to the black color. I do know that when spray painting, black can be difficult to get looking perfect.
    HF matte black gives 100% perfect coats every single time with ESPC. If you really want black, get a gun and do it right. Matte powders will NOT BBDT. The matte agent kills the teeny little static charge BBDT relies on. I and others have never successfully used it with BBDT. "Success" is ONLY one coat and bake in my book! Anything else is a waste of my time and $$.

    Matte black (straight and mixed with other colors) is one of my go-to coatings.

    I am so glad to see so many people "coming out" about successfully using polymer jackets with thier cast boolits.

    banger

  15. #15
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Todd S View Post
    Can you overcook the powder coat? I got a couple of different powders from Smoke. The JD green came out great. The gloss black was a day or two later. It definitely didn't cover as well and the coat is chipping off in some spots. I did get distracted and might have started the timer well after the powder turned shiny.

    I have left boolits in my 400F set oven a lot longer than 10 minutes. The timer went off but I was busy elsewhere and they stayed in there at 400F gradually cooling down.....probably 25 minutes.....and no detrimental results to the coating. Remember I said 400F. Hotter could cause problems. I am not going to test it because I never have the over-temp problem with my equipment.

    Test it for yourself. Run them longer and hotter and see if any damage is done by using the standard hammer test. Let us know!

    banger

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub
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    I have an ESPC gun, just have not had a chance to set it up outside. banger, that is 10 minutes after they get glossy, correct? I have a separate oven thermometer also. It was definitely at 400 degrees. I'm going to do a small batch and run them for 30 and see what that does. I'll report back.

  17. #17
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    I just go 15 mins at 400 on the PC bullets in the oven. I like the nitrile glove method over pliers, tweezers, hemostats, whatever. Just keep a little PC on the gloves.

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
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    I edited the original post to reflect the 10 minute baking time. Thank you all for the correction!

  19. #19
    Boolit Bub
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    Update on the flaking black. I PC'd some 200gr Lee .452 with black, again. I had no issues with the PC flaking off. Whatever happened the first time, i didn't repeat it. I made sure to keep an eye on time. I ran the oven 10 minutes after the boolits turned shiny. I also loaded and shot the original batch out of an XDM and 1911. I had no leading at all.

  20. #20
    Boolit Bub catmasher's Avatar
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    i have followed your technique to the TEE using 5 different containers, leather shoes everything, still cant get any results with HF red
    bill

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check