Little dandy powder measure

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Ok, we were all right. My photos are much better than my descriptions at explaining things. The Bair/Pacific pre date my Pacific/Hornady measures.

Thanks for straightening me out.

Leon

[Green Frog]

A couple of other changes... the early Pacific measures are painted black on their cast iron bodies and the early units have a clamp built in while the later ones have a two piece mounting plate.

Froggie

[Wayne Smith]

That's interesting, Froggie. My Bair is blue with a two piece mounting plate. I'm assuming (here I go again!) that it predates the Pacific version.

[marlinman93]

Both of my Pacifics are blue and have built in clamps. One piece.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

There is a Bair powder measure listed on fleabay, black with built in clamp. No financial interest here.

[Chill Wills]

There are only about 28 rotors needed to cover the full range. I have exactly 5 for mine. Every time I think I have the perfect use for that handy little powder meter, I find I am about one or two rotor numbers off of being able to drop the correct amount of powder.

I'm going to make a few blank rotors and then maybe I can drill the cavity as needed and fill a few blanks in my stable.

I was measuring my few up last night and giving them a good look over. I found an unused pair of small threaded holes on the opposite end of the rotor from the finger knob. Hmmm, some kind of attachment I don't have and don't need, ....or do I?

[cuzinbruce]

With my Little Dandy rotors, I keep them in a plastic shotshell box, with sme VPI paper to prevent rust. The rotors fit perfectly in the little compartments.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

The tapped holes are probably for a small handle to attach. I believe the threaded one is a 8-32 thread.

A member of this forum generously gave me 2 rotors that he had duplicates of. I'm probably going to try drilling one of them out to the size I need. Just haven't done it yet.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[CLAYPOOL]

I sometimes dump 2 or 3 times to get the "Charge" I want. You can scale a 2 dump the same as a altered rotor.

[Green Frog]

That's interesting, Froggie. My Bair is blue with a two piece mounting plate. I'm assuming (here I go again!) that it predates the Pacific version.

Negatory Wayne, you've got it backwards. The Pacific measures go back before WW II. Bair didn't start up with theirs until the '50s or later, if I read the stories right. Early Bairs looked like the Pacific (except for color) but then got the redesign on their clamp mechanism.

Froggie

[dg31872]

I love my Little Dandy, but I hate the chart. Any idea where I can get an accurate chart that trifocals can see?

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I did a search on the net and found a pdf file that I downloaded. I can blow it up so my tri focals and ole eyes can read it. I have notes from 35 years ago showing my rotors dropped powder charges just as the chart shows. One of them was off a tenth of a grain. Close enough.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

[Green Frog]

I did a search on the net and found a pdf file that I downloaded. I can blow it up so my tri focals and ole eyes can read it. I have notes from 35 years ago showing my rotors dropped powder charges just as the chart shows. One of them was off a tenth of a grain. Close enough.

Have a blessed day,

Leon

Leon,

I'd say you are the exception to the rule! I find my RCBS rotors to ALWAYS drop a little and sometimes significantly light. I can't remember ever having one drop exact, full marked weight and of course NEVER heavy. Although I don't do it and would NEVER ADVISE IT, I would feel fairly confident dropping a light charge by the chart, being certain it would be below "advertised" weight. Just my experience, YMMV.

Froggie

[Ole Joe Clarke]

Froggie,

I don't load ANYTHING without double checking the charge on the scale. All the action is to close to me when the trigger is pulled.

[Chill Wills]

With regard to making weight, I have to say, the rotors I have are on the mark.

I drop H-38 in rotor 1 and 2 and it is amazing how close they drop each time. Sometimes the #2 drops 3.1 grain instead of the 3.0 but mostly it is on.
The powder makers are in control of the powder density and they are for the most part very good too.
We, as rifleman here in the USA, have it pretty good!

[EDG]

I think the Dandy was also designed to be used with the RCBS green machine and the measure actuator used the 2 holes in the rotors.
I have nearly a full set of rotors collected back when you could get one for a buck or two. The rotors that throw 5 gr of Unique, 13 grains of Unique and the largest rotor have gotten all the use. I use the largest for reduced rifles charges and for full charges in the 44 mag. That is to say I use the powder charge that works with the rotor and not the other way around.

There are only about 28 rotors needed to cover the full range. I have exactly 5 for mine. Every time I think I have the perfect use for that handy little powder meter, I find I am about one or two rotor numbers off of being able to drop the correct amount of powder.

I'm going to make a few blank rotors and then maybe I can drill the cavity as needed and fill a few blanks in my stable.

I was measuring my few up last night and giving them a good look over. I found an unused pair of small threaded holes on the opposite end of the rotor from the finger knob. Hmmm, some kind of attachment I don't have and don't need, ....or do I?

[marlinman93]

I've never had my RCBS or Pacific measures drop heavy. I do check them before using them to ensure they're on, but don't weigh at the range because the wind raises havoc with my scale. Since I'm often using the Pacific for load work up, or breech seating while shooting, weighing each charge at the range isn't realistic. Instead I choose which rotors I will take, along with the powder. Then I sit down at my bench at home and dump and weigh loads to see what the measure drops, prior to heading to the range.

[Chill Wills]

I shoot 3.8grs of 231 or HP-38 in a Smith M-67 (38 Special). Today I wanted to see what it would take to make a rotor that would drop that amount. The first of something is always the one that takes time. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it came together.
I can make more!

The nice part about making them as you need them might be that you can make in between numbers for what your load is. The RCBS chart for HP-38 shows a #4 dropping 3.6grs and a #5 at 4.0grs. So I made a #4.5 rotor.

I made this rotor out of 1" aluminum hex stock. I left the knob end hex instead of knurled and round. I like the hex knob but starting with 7/8" stock would be a better size. One inch is just a little clumsy looking. I Don't have anything in 7/8" just now.

I will have to see how well I like aluminum for rotors. RCBS uses steel. Brass would be classy, and pricey.
Cost in aluminum or 12L14 steel is basically my time.

[EDG]

A hexagon body machined from brass would look good with the steel rotors.

I shoot 3.8grs of 231 or HP-38 in a Smith M-67 (38 Special). Today I wanted to see what it would take to make a rotor that would drop that amount. The first of something is always the one that takes time. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it came together.
I can make more!

The nice part about making them as you need them might be that you can make in between numbers for what your load is. The RCBS chart for HP-38 shows a #4 dropping 3.6grs and a #5 at 4.0grs. So I made a #4.5 rotor.

I made this rotor out of 1" aluminum hex stock. I left the knob end hex instead of knurled and round. I like the hex knob but starting with 7/8" stock would be a better size. One inch is just a little clumsy looking. I Don't have anything in 7/8" just now.

I will have to see how well I like aluminum for rotors. RCBS uses steel. Brass would be classy, and pricey.
Cost in aluminum or 12L14 steel is basically my time.

[Ole Joe Clarke]

I don't think brass or aluminum is a good choice for rotors, because if they are used a lot the edges of the cavity will become dull and will not "cut" the grains of powder as efficiently as a piece of hardened steel will. They will look good though.