If its 1 to 2 RPM yes
If you don't know mark the top of the shaft, hook to power and count how long to make 1 rotation
[SIZE=4][B]Selling Hi Quality Powdercoating Powder
I carry a Nuke50 because cleaning up the mess is Silly !!
http://www.bing.com/search?q=nuke50&...7ADE&FORM=QBLH
I am not crazy my mom had me tested
Theres a fine line between genius and crazy .. I'm that line
and depending on the day I might just step over that line !!!
The ones I make and sell "blades" for others to build their own use 17 rpm motors that are DC and a speed control.
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...annealer-today
problem is I really don't have space in my shop or reloading area for a turn table style. thanks for the offer.
Ah, horizontal case is what your looking for.
Never used one but these are pretty cheap and ready to go.
http://annealeez.ddns.net
Might check out this thread for building one.
http://68forums.com/forums/showthrea...ealing+machine
Not to be contrary to anyone trying the build-it-yourself route, BUT, if the project fizzles and you have the scratch, the $500 Bench Source auto annealer is absolutely top shelf. Jim
http://bench-source.com/id81.html
The vertical DIY ones work just fine and are a lot less money than the Bench Source machine. I was going to buy one until I found the Annealeez. Some slight hiccups w/ the potentiometer and short 300 BLK cases. But the results are consistent and I have two new motor speed controls coming for a whole $20.
I think it will work. I do mine one at a time using my cordless drill and an adapted 5/8" socket. I have one of those socket-extension-adapters that goes from 3/8" to 1/4." This allows me to chuck the socket up in my cordless drill.
The socket is just deep enough so as to allow just the right amount of my brass to stick up above the mouth of the socket. I'll wrap my brass in a piece of 1/4" thick water-drenched foam, stuff it down into the socket and spin it at its slowest setting as I place the flame of my torch on the mouth of the brass. The water/coolant doesn't allow the heat to travel any farther down the brass than is necessary. I use ice water to mitigate the heat transferring into the metal of the socket. It still gets hot but not enough to effect any other part of the brass but the mouth-part where the annealing is wanted.
Once I get the timing down it doesn't take to long to do twenty-five or thirty cases in a single session. Fortunately I only have to anneal my brass once or twice a year. I don't have time to shoot as often as I used to. If I have to anneal smaller rifle calibers I simply use a smaller, shorter socket.
I can kind of picture in my mind what you are wanting to do by the images in your photo. Even if your motor turns faster than you'd like, as long as your coolant doesn't slosh out of whatever container setup you come up with, it should still work. You might also be able to install an inline rheostat to dial down the speed.
HollowPoint
Just dropped $366 today, $250 to $500 may just put in the dog house for life.
I have a few weeks to plan fully. I cut my left thumb extremely bad today, pretty much right after I started these thread while making my ar mag block.
I am working on converting 223 brass to 300 blackout. have only 12 pieces of brass done. another 75 to trim, another 25 of the same headstamp to cut, another 150 to 200 (most likely low ball numbers (half a plastic shoe box) to sort of mixed head stamp. have not finished with the setting up fully yet. wanting to anneal.
as for a rheostat, would a dimmer switch work? also have a router control, was going on my homemade vent system at my casting table.
Thats the nice thing about some of the "turn table" style is that they work on cases as short and small diameter as 5.7x28 or as long and large diameter as 50 BMG and everything in between without any additional parts required. Just raise or lower the torches and go.Some slight hiccups w/ the potentiometer and short 300 BLK cases.
Corey, what are the specifications of the motor you have? AC or DC and what voltage? Some AC motors you cannot vary speed with something like a rheostat or router control.
If your not sure or don't know how to figure it out just buy new ones. The fellow in the thread I linked to has a good set of instructions that would minimize how much you have to figure out on your own, including a complete parts list and prints to follow for construction.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...X0/mobilebasic
The motor is $10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/High-Torque-...-/161359792728
Last edited by jmorris; 02-04-2016 at 10:20 AM.
I am building one of this type,
Lots of good info, will do 22 TCM case to largest mag's, with the proper setup's etc.
This info is very long post with 19+ pg's,
Be sure to read the info a couple times, as you won't get it all the first time thru.
See info here:
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/43...g_Machine.html
I am hoping it will also work for my 17/22 calibers small wildcats cases down to .600" case length.
Tia,
Don
did a test with the router controller I had, not going to happen with that. once the motor get below its given speed rating, it get really choppy.
so I ordered the motor jmorris suggested but off amazon. first I have done a package deal from there. motor, speed control and bracket to hold the motor.
don thanks for that link, that helped a lot.
when I was looking up motors I run into these site, entrusting site. don't know how the shipping is but the prices are about the same. may ship all out of china thou.
http://www.banggood.com/buy/12v-gear-motors.html
Last edited by corey012778; 02-05-2016 at 12:05 AM.
Lots of stuff ships right out of China. Look at the price when you get it. Interesting how they can send it across the United States for less than you can mail a flat rate box inside your State...
the site I posted is free shipping as long as it is out of the us warehouse.
I do know what you mean. I am bad about pulling up 4 sites at once and comparing them. my wife orders a lot of stuff lately off wish.com $1 shipping out of china and us warehouse but very small packages.
after some a few refined google searches, finally found some plans on what I want to build.
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...Aj7xa0eX0/edit
little update,
my thumb is healing nicely.
my wife the same week I hurt my thumb decided to remodel the kitchen. so been busy with that.
the parts for my order parts are my annealer are coming in. have the power supply, pan I order for a drum (could not find the right size pan locally), one motor, speed control, and motor mount (may not use).
locally I got the wire, a 3in foot for table or stool for case feeder (may have to trim 1/2in off the diameter), number of small items to build the case. once the kitchen is done. I get started.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |