still trying to use up the first lb of hf red!
Cogito ergo sum ego iacio (Google Translate)
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Reloading and casting are like approaching a black hole; once you pass the event horizon there is no turning back.
I use whatever I've got/can get, but clear is by far my favorite. Nothing looks as good as plain 'ol lead.
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Thanks Hickok, besides looking BA that PC performs very well.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/291664905718
Your right, grey is not apparent. It's what I got and the bullet's look awfully close to uncoated bullet's but uncoated are shiner. Hard to tell on the first coat how it went but the second coat was easier. I'll probably try a different color easier to see but have a hard time with designer color bullet's! lol
Mongoose, those copper colored boolits are cool! Did you have to spray them?
Berksglh, thanks for pics of the white aluminum. I have been wanting to see what it looked like. I like that color. I am trying to make up my mind about some new colors to order from Smoke. I have Yellow/green, Signal Blue, and jet black.
I am thinking white aluminum, JD Green, purple, and Carolina blue.
Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting
I have seen pics of a few different, very good looking, copper colors on here lately. Still haven't figured out where people are getting it, and whether or not it tumbles.
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Hello and welcome! You boolits look outstanding as does your PC.
Maker of Silver Boolits for Werewolf hunting
Clear powder coat is very easy to see on cast boolits before they are baked. It has a look like powder coated donuts and is much easier for me to gauge coverage than using solid colors. Once it glosses over in the oven then it becomes clear and stays very glossy. It coats very evenly as it is carrying NO pigments to interfere with evening out. Most people who use pigmented powders say that if they get spotty coverage with one coat that they can still see the polymer carrier on the boolits, just not the color in certain spots. So I simply dispense with the pigments and get great coverage every time using Smoke's clear and shake & bake.
I shoot only 38 and 45 caliber boolits at this time. I know some people like thick powder coats on their boolits. I am going another direction. I want a thin coat and I often blow off excess clear powder outside on the way to the oven. The more powder you blow off takes it from looking white to looking grey yet still very easy to judge evenness of the coating prior to baking.
The custom 45 caliber groove-less boolit mold I had Tom at Accurate Molds make me casts slightly oversize. I size it, coat it, bake it and then resize it. Does this make much difference in 45 Colt and ACP at 25 yards? Probably not. Maybe at 100 yards,
I was going to apply that same thinking to rifle boolits when I start coating them. I want to keep the boolits balanced and not have a thick side and thin side of coating. However I am beginning to read opinions that a heavier coating of powder is preferable in rifle boolits and IF that is true then it sort of blows my thin coating technique out of the water. Time will tell I suspect as the process keeps being refined by shooters here and elsewhere.
I may just be overthinking things. Rifle boolit balance has to affect accuracy at velocity. The question in my mind is.........can higher velocities be achieved with accuracy using thin even coatings of baked on powder?
They say Edison found thousands of ways not to build a light bulb. With all the people testing powder coating as a boolit coating, including commercial interests, the techniques and powder properties are going to advance quickly.
The biggest slowdown will be competing personalities I fear. Don't try to sell us on ideas. Just tell us what works for you and let us try it for ourselves if we choose. What is working for you may not be working for me. Over time differences in technique or powder properties may explain why. The better we can understand the processes the better chance we have of finding what will work in our climates in regard to temp and humidity. Some want purdy colors and performance. Others are just concerned about performance. Who knows? It is possible some beautiful pigment will enhance performance and then make everyone happier.
Tell us what is working for you. Don't try to oversell it. Just put it out there and people will try it if they want......or not. I cannot imagine powder coatings falling by the wayside, however it will assume whatever rightful role it should play over time. The process will benefit time wise if we just all contribute what we believe, but don't get testy with each other.
Some people prefer to continue with more traditional lubes........and that is great. Who knows what they may discover to advance application using a lube sizer. The point is let the processes compete honesty so we all benefit. When we compete in p***ing matches.......not so much.
OK! I'm getting down off of this soap box before I hurt myself.
Mike
Last edited by Spector; 02-18-2016 at 10:55 AM.
As well said as possible - my feelings exactly! While I might enjoy looking at the different colors for the "gee whiz" factor, nothing beats the looks of plain old lead. As said above, it's easy to tell if the coverage is good 'n even with the clear PC.
I tend to use a thick coat, my mold drops the bullet at .457/.458 and it seems my old 45-70 trapdoor needs about .460/.461 to be accurate. Doing a double (next to try a triple coat) helps build thickness to get diameter required.
Ken H>
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |