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Thread: Having trouble...

  1. #21
    Boolit Master and Generous Donator
    floodgate's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
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    2,227
    selmerfan:

    (Are you a brass player? Selmer is a maker of brass musical instruments IIRC)

    First, check to see if the inner faces of the handle jaws are hitting the bottom of the block slots AT THE REAR. This can prevent the jaws from fully squeezing the blocks closed at the front, and commonly arises in using the older "small-block" handles on the larger blocks; or sometimes it happens even with the correct handles - several of my handles have had to be "fine-tuned" over the years. The solution is to file a taper on the INSIDE REAR face of the handle jaws, from about 0.020"-0.030" at the back to zero opposite the mounting screw holes. Also, check that the wooden handles are not contacting each other as you try to close the mould. (If the blocks gap at the back, file from the FRONT of the jaws.)

    floodgate
    NOV SHMOZ KA POP?

  2. #22
    Boolit Master
    selmerfan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Southeastern Iowa
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    Thanks floodgate, I'll try that when I get back to school. The nei mold is at my apartment at school, I'm home with the wife and kids for the weekend. No, I'm not a brass player, I'm a saxophone player. Selmer does make fine brass instruments, but nobody, and I mean nobody, makes better saxophones than Selmer, at least for my preferences. (It's the only thing made in France that I would ever buy) In the sax world, that statement is alot like saying that Freedom Arms are the absolute best SA revolver there is. You know that you're right, but somebody else thinks differently...
    Selmerfan

  3. #23
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    broomfield co
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    88
    I use a case chambering tool on the alignment pin hole. Just don't get carried away.
    Also I gave up dipping a mould 20 years ago. Get a hot plate or if you got a electric stove use it. I read a few times about warping a mould and in 20 years never happened to me. I've left moulds on a hot plate for 12 hours or more (forgot) more then once. with no problem. One thing I might say is remove the bullets first, or you will be sorry.
    I just received a mould off of e-bay. The bottom of the bullet wasn't filling out. I cleaned that mould half a doz times. Even went to my other furnace. Didn't do any good. Even e-mailed Gussy about a new spruce plate. The bullet is a 335 gr.375. The spruce hole was normal size but there was harley no taper to it. I drilled it out till it looked right and it still didn't work. In desperation I recut the top 3 vent lines on both cavitys. Worked great. I've been casting for 38 years and owned more then a 100 moulds first time I ever recut vent lines. Never to old to learn something new.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check