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Thread: Just the facts: Lube recipes

  1. #21
    Boolit Master at heavens range
    smokemjoe's Avatar
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    J2 Lub.
    3 Oz. Beewax
    1 Fl. Oz. Dexron 3 Transmission Fluild
    90 grs. powder Rosin
    100 Grs. Ivory Soap.
    Melt wax and oil until it foams on a stick.
    Add soap until it smokes
    Add rosin, stir and let cool.
    Put in mold.
    Works good in everything and all weather condition.

  2. #22
    Boolit Grand Master


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    This is my all purpose use it on anything lube here in the Andes. 50 / 50 by weight or volume.. beeswax and axle grease. I have used it on 44-40 (rifle - pistol) , 38 special and 357 mag . No leading... great acuracy.

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold
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    hi guys! followed a link to here from a lube recipe thread on packing4life and love it. Something I haven't seen here yet is a tip I picked up on a candlemaking site while looking for wax: put the ingredients in a heavy zip-lock bag and drop it in boiling water........no smoke, no flash over. to get stearic acid to melt well I had to put the lid on for a couple minutes, as the top of the bag was cooling things down while the water was trying to heat them up.

  4. #24
    Boolit Grand Master
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    This isn't a recepie, per se, as all the above are, but a mixture of commercially available lubes I mixed up, long before I found this website. So far, I can take a 725gr 0.512" dia and launch it out of a 1-15" twist gun, at 2,300 fps with decent accuracy (looong throat) and no leading.

    3 sticks Lyman orange magic
    2 sticks Lyman Super Moly
    1 stick SPG
    1 tsp moly powder


    My reloading room is about 64 degrees in winter, lube is a little stiff,but does flow OK, fine in summer, when room is about 68 degrees.

  5. #25
    Boolit Master Marlin Junky's Avatar
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    I've beat the accuracy of LBT Soft Blue with the following ingredients:

    1 to 1.5 pounds Beeswax
    2 TBS red lithium high temp, high pressure grease (The stuff Wall-Mart sells in the blue can is fine)
    8 TBS Petroleum Jelly
    2 TBS Carnauba wax: http://www.oilsbynature.com/products...uba-wax-t1.htm (T3 is usually less money, but they're out of stock)

    1) Melt the Petroleum Jelly and add the red lithium grease at a ratio of approximately 4:1. The Petroleum Jelly should be barely at the smoking point. Stir until the grease is completely dissolved. The lithium grease will dissolve in the PJ at a ratio of 3:1 but it takes longer. The advantage of less PJ would be an increased melting point. At 4:1 PJ to grease, my lube ends up stable to about 125F and I think the melt point is somewhere around 150F.

    2) Add two tablespoons of Carnauba flakes and cook at barely the smoking point for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. This is best done in a well ventilated area.

    3) Add the beeswax to the desired consistency (start with a pound) and bring the mixture to just barely the smoking point. Cook for about an hour, stirring occasionally.

    If the lube ends up too hard, add PJ. If too soft, adding Carnauba is better than adding too much beeswax. Too much beeswax will make the lube crumbly which needs to be corrected by the addition of more PJ & grease combo. Don't try adding just red grease to the lube because it won't combine properly; i.e., it needs to be dissolved in PJ before combining with wax. If you add too much red grease, the lube will be oily on the surface which needs to be corrected with Carnauba. If this is the case, add the Carnauba slowly and cook the lube each time it's added. A single teaspoon of Carnauba can make a difference but it needs to be well blended in the lube.

    Let me know how it works for you. My testing has been limited to a M77 in .358W and a M70 in 30-06, neither of which are 1MOA guns but the homemade lube consistently beats LBT Soft Blue in group size by 15% or more at 2100 to 2200 fps.

    MJ
    Last edited by Marlin Junky; 01-06-2009 at 05:52 PM.

  6. #26
    In Remembrance
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    Rebel Red.

    This gives me extreme accuracy, very little smoke and no leading in my handgun rounds. Requires no heater. All ingredients except for one are very easy and inexpensive to find. The only one that you'll have to seek out a specialty shop for is the soft wax specifically for container candles.

    This is important because not all candle waxes are created equally. The soft bricks made specially for container candles are softer because once melted, they will be poured into existing containers (for the new candles) and do not have to be stiff to stand upright on their own.

    However, this stuff is SUPERB as a base for boolit lube and a little goes a LONG way. Do not let the stickiness/tackiness upon first contact scare you off. Once it is melted and then cools, it firms up nicely and almost all of the tackiness goes away.


    Here is the formula:

    2 oz by weight of soft container candle wax
    3 oz by measurement of ATF (doesn't matter which type)
    3 oz by measurement of Marvel Mystery Oil
    1 heaping tablespoon Johnsons Paste Wax
    1 tablespoon of powdered/shaved Ivory Soap
    1 teaspoon of Lee Liquid Alox
    1/4 teaspoon Permatex anti-seize lube
    Beeswax as needed to firm up to personal preference

    Let the container candle wax melt. I mix mine up in an old dollar store pot on top of a hot plate set at 350 F. When candle wax is completely melted, pour in 3 oz of ATF fluid. Stir in completely and continue to stir for at least one or two minutes until mix has come back up to temperature.

    Add 3 oz of Marvel Mystery Oil. Repeat stiring until mix has come back up to temperature.

    Add the heaping tablespoon of JPW, repeat. Add the LLA. This will take a lot of stirring and you may need to increase the burner heat. Once mixed in, add a level tablespoon of Ivory soap powder/small shavings (I use a fine grater to get me the powder form). Stir in well.

    When you add the 1/4 teaspoon of Permatex, it will make the mixture swirl and separate and look like an old 60's/70's psychodelic light show. Enjoy while you continue to cook and stir. The stuff will not mix 100% in, but does blend in nicely upon cooling.

    Add in a couple of ounces of beeswax, stir in good then pour a sample out into a small container and let cool. I put the small container into the fridge.

    What you're looking for now is firmness. If you use a heater with your lubesizer or prefer to pan lube, you can add more beeswax for firmness/hardness. If you prefer a bit softer lube that flows well, check firmness by hand and add beeswax as needed.

    This is a pretty easy formula to mix up, doesn't require a double-boiler set up and you can manipulate the firmness by addition of beeswax. It shoots well for me and makes barrel cleanup a non-event. Enjoy.


  7. #27
    Boolit Grand Master


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    Good morning
    I re-read the above and thought about adding one simple easy to make lube that uses components available to everyone, probably at no cost. Paul Mathews Book (40 years with the 45-70) was the background for this.
    55% old wax candles (the used stubbs the wife will not burn) and 45 % bearing grease.
    Melt (OUTSIDE the house) the candle wax removing the strings and however much crud you can . Any smaller metal pan will work. Remember this is a flamable and WILL catch fire. Add the bearing grease (water pump grease was the origonal but what ever grease you have at home) and mix together. If to thin add another candle stub. If to thick a dobber more of grease. This "lube" works in my 357 mag (3.5" S&W 19.5) with the Lyman 358429 and 7 grains Unique no leading. Also in my 44-40 winny 1892 up to 10 grains Unique with the Saaco 443 (220+). No leading in either load. Naturally slower loads are =.
    That is as fast as I can push this lube here with what I have.
    "Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
    Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.

  8. #28
    Cast Boolits Founder/B.O.B.

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    Seems to have been majorly hijacked here,, I am going to split off some posts that are not,, "just the facts" as requested in the header of this post.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...175#post519175
    Is the thread for discussion, OK? Thanks!
    Last edited by 45nut; 03-12-2009 at 07:34 PM.
    Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

    Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

    http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits

    castboolits@gmail.com

  9. #29
    In Remembrance
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    Just finished testing this variation on my Rebel Red formula. Haven't tested on rifle boolits at higher velocities, but my testing on handgun boolits up to 1500fps (checking for leading only and not accuracy at this velocity) was outstanding.

    I'm going to "bold" the substituted ingredient and delete the others not needed/used.

    Essentially, in place of ATF and MMO, I substituted Mercury's Quicksilver Outboard Lube. It's a dark green lube that is incredibly resiliant, yet very easy to work with. It mixes and blends very well.

    Outboard and sterndrive (boat) engines are poster children for harsh, abusive conditions. Most are run WOT (Wide Open Throttle) for extended periods of time. Lot of owners rarely change their outdrive lube. So for as many drives that are out there and operating, I figure this stuff has to have some attributes I want in a lube.

    Not sure when I'll get around to testing it with rifle boolits at extended velocities. Will report on it when I do.

    Green Lube.

    All ingredients except for one are very easy and inexpensive to find. The only one that you'll have to seek out a specialty shop for is the soft wax specifically for container candles.

    This is important because not all candle waxes are created equally. The soft bricks made specially for container candles are softer because once melted, they will be poured into existing containers (for the new candles) and do not have to be stiff to stand upright on their own.

    However, this stuff is SUPERB as a base for boolit lube and a little goes a LONG way. Do not let the stickiness/tackiness upon first contact scare you off. Once it is melted and then cools, it firms up nicely and almost all of the tackiness goes away.


    Here is the formula:

    2 oz by weight of soft container candle wax
    5 oz of Quicksilver Outdrive Lube available at any boat service center, Bass Pro Shops, Cabela's, etc.
    3 oz Johnsons Paste Wax
    1/2 tablespoon of powdered/shaved Ivory Soap
    1 teaspoon of Lee Liquid Alox
    1/4 teaspoon Permatex anti-seize lube
    Beeswax as needed to firm up to personal preference (you'll need a lot--probably half a pound or more)

    Let the container candle wax melt. I mix mine up in an old dollar store pot on top of a hot plate set at 350 F. When candle wax is completely melted, pour the Quicksilver lube. Stir in completely and continue to stir for at least one or two minutes until mix has come back up to temperature.

    Add the JPW, repeat. Add the LLA. This will take a lot of stirring and you may need to increase the burner heat. Once mixed in, add a level tablespoon of Ivory soap powder/small shavings (I use a fine grater to get me the powder form). Stir in well.

    When you add the 1/4 teaspoon of Permatex, it will make the mixture swirl and separate and look like an old 60's/70's psychodelic light show. Enjoy while you continue to cook and stir. The stuff will not mix 100% in, but does blend in nicely upon cooling.

    Add in beeswax two ounces at a time for consistency and thickness.

    What you're looking for now is firmness. If you use a heater with your lubesizer or prefer to pan lube, you can add more beeswax for firmness/hardness. If you prefer a bit softer lube that flows well, check firmness by hand and add beeswax as needed.

    This formula is working very well so far. Looking forward to seeing what it will do at uber-velocities.


  10. #30
    Cast Boolits Founder/B.O.B.

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    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=55945

    Please,, please,, discuss on that thread and post actual recipes ONLY here !
    Boolits= as God laid it into the soil,,grand old Galena,the Silver Stream graciously hand poured into molds for our consumption.

    Bullets= Machine made utilizing Full Length Gas Checks as to provide projectiles for the masses.

    http://www.cafepress.com/castboolits

    castboolits@gmail.com

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub flagman1776's Avatar
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    "Blue Lube"

    I always was gonna mix up a batch of "blue lube" for my Lube Master. Magma makes no secret... 50% bees wax / 50% parafin, food coloring of your choice. Cap off a 2" PVC pipe & pour. Freeze lube & push out of PVC.

    The funny thing is customers swear the "blue lube is the BEST" but it's only food coloring!

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy
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    Oh boy,,ain't walking away from this one

    Here's mine..

    1 lb beeswax.. clean or yeller either one
    1 lb Parafin.... like for canning peaches
    1 lb Vasaline or equivalent
    2 each Crayola crayons...I like blue or red...any purdy kulor u like
    4 or 5 tablespoons of STP Oil Treatment...

    Put all except STP in post,,heat her up..(make sure paper is off crayons)..
    once melted...dump in STP and mix her up good. pour out,,cool off,,,
    Your in business...

    can pour out in PVC Pipe to get tubes if you need it...

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
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    Can you substitute toilet bowl wax for beeswax on these homemade lube recipes?

  14. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by tmattox View Post
    Can you substitute toilet bowl wax for beeswax on these homemade lube recipes?
    NO you cannot substitute it for beeswax. Bowl wax is "slack wax" and industrial term for something that can be anything....normally it amounts to an unclean unwashed version of vaseline. It is a combo of microwax/petrolatum/and parraffin that has not ben distilled yet....but it can also be anything else. Bowl wax can be used to soften a beeswax lube and it is a good "ingredient" to add to beeswax if you do not mind playing with a substance that is not ever exactly the same twice in a row.

  15. #35
    Boolit Master
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    For me I go with KISS..........Keep It Simple Stupid.but that 's just me. LLA and JP depending on rifle or pistol.

  16. #36
    Boolit Man
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    1 1/2 lbs. beeswax
    1 lb. vaseline
    1 1/2 oz. carnuba flakes
    1 1/2 oz. ivory soap
    2 crayons for color . . . you choose the color

    Use a heater in very cold weather. No heat needed in summer. Use for both rifle & pistol.

  17. #37
    Boolit Bub
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    Are all of these ok to pan lube with?

  18. #38
    Moderator Emeritus


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    Quote Originally Posted by dnmccoy View Post
    Are all of these ok to pan lube with?
    OK ? yes.
    Easy ? probably not.


    Disclaimer: I have never been successful at pan lubing, it's a mess a sticky mess. I am pretty sure I was doing it wrong, because so many do this, and do it successfully.
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  19. #39
    Boolit Master thehouseproduct's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nose Dive View Post
    Here's mine..

    1 lb beeswax.. clean or yeller either one
    1 lb Parafin.... like for canning peaches
    1 lb Vasaline or equivalent
    2 each Crayola crayons...I like blue or red...any purdy kulor u like
    4 or 5 tablespoons of STP Oil Treatment...

    Put all except STP in post,,heat her up..(make sure paper is off crayons)..
    once melted...dump in STP and mix her up good. pour out,,cool off,,,
    Your in business...

    can pour out in PVC Pipe to get tubes if you need it...
    I use this without the STP. Both in a Lyman 45 and pan lubing.
    Visit my page at www.echoarms.com for casting, reloading, and firearms accessories as well as FFL services in Southern California.

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  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy o6Patient's Avatar
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    This recipe makes the most sense to me although I don't see commercial
    ones to be a problem to use or buy.

    5 to 6,7,8 parts 99% ALCOHOL depending if you are going to roll or spray
    1 --------- part PURE LANOLIN OIL (not anhydrous lanolin)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check