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Thread: Gunstock Dimensions

  1. #1
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Gunstock Dimensions

    I was wondering if someone can give me the rough dimensions I should cut a piece of maple in order to one day build a gunstock.

    I want to take an old mosin nagant and build a Anschutz or thumb hole type stock for it. I have some maple logs laying around and figure I could rough cut a couple to set aside for future use in this project.

    I know it really comes down to personal preference, but figured someone could give me a little guidance who has done something similar before. I was thinking 34" long, 6" tall, and 4" wide?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master newton's Avatar
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    Think I found something. Guess you just have to know the right keywords to search.

    https://www.boydsgunstocks.com/ProductDetail/A10017

  3. #3
    Boolit Master SPRINGFIELDM141972's Avatar
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    What is your log diameter? That will drive what the width of your stock board should be. You need to be able to align the grain to run along the wrist of the stock. The blank should be quarter sawn from the log or rift sawn from either side of the flitching line. Then you will be able to move the pattern around on the blank to align the grain to the stock wrist.
    "There's a reason John Browning's middle name is Moses."

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    With the deep pistol grip you are planning, I would make it a bit deeper than 6in. unless the front end is rather deeper than the forend needs. An alternative would be to make a dogleg bend in the lower surface, so that the pistol grip would extend nearly as low as the toe of the buttplate.

    You shouldn't need anywhere near four inches in width, and the grain on such a thick blank could hide changes of grain direction further inside. Since you aren't paying by the inch for the wood, maybe the best way would be to cut it to that thickness, plane and sand it very smooth on the top edge to see exactly what direction the train takes there, and reduce it to about 2½in. by removing wood from either side.

  5. #5
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    when i make a gun stock for my self i first cut several ones out of heavy poster board paper untill it fits me perfectly. when i put that gun stock to my shoulder it must have these things. perfect reach for me to the trigger. i must be able to look down the barrel of the gun with out forceing the elevation up or down to get a perfect sight picture. then it has to rest on the perfect spot on my shoulder. their it is, keep makeing patterns untill you have it perfect for you. then transfer it to a blank and lay out the pattern and then cut out with a band saw then go to work inletting. dont go light on the back part of the stock. weight their will ballance the gun when shot off hand. consider the ohio fish belly back stock design as it is strong and makes a well ballanced gun. it is also called a perch belly design, it is my favorite. the off hand muzzle loader i did out of cherry wood is so ballanced off hand it fell like it is on a rest. if you build a design to fit you perfectly it will have less recoil that if it didnt fit. ive shot custom engish stype muzzle loaders ive built for my self with a 50 cal barrel and a 686 grain pp bullet. recoil wasnt even noticed because the gun fit me perfectly. a well fitted gun is a dream to shoot. you can shoot them fast and accrate. take your time and do it right. i route the barrel channel on a big milling machine of my friends with the right router. jut find some one to do it or send it to some one who does that. dont route by hand unless you are a expert. the rest can be done by a good set of wood chisles and a calm steady hand. when you build a stock for your body type you will never shoot a gun that feels as good as that one. have fun, take your time and keep us in the loop.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I saw this as a question about how big to cut the blank before seasoning. In general the closer to the finished stock size you can safety come, the faster and more thoroughly it will season.

    But one or two points on stock design wouldn't come amiss. I'm always reminded of Sir Alec Issonigis in the 1950s, who instead of trying to get everything into the shape of a small car, worked the four passengers, luggage space, engine, gearbox etc. into the most compact possible lump, and then designed the irreducible minimum of car around it.

    Your basic stock shape is determined before there is any wood. The sighted rifle determine where your eye needs to be, and the rear receiver and trigger determine where your right hand needs to be. The act of pointing at the target in your intended position, and the balance the entire rifle will have, determine where your left hand will be. Then you fill up with wood the space between your hands, cheek and torso. Shoulder contact should be firm but not forced, and the amount of recoil from the rifle and cartridge determine the length and angle of the surface your cheek rest upon.

    The perch belly stock does indeed have a specialized application. In a moderately recoiling rifle intended to be shot at stationary targets from the standing position, it allows the rifle some support from the chest, and therefore with the buttplate against the upper arm rather than the shoulder. It combined very well with a hook buttplate. Both were exactly what the old-time scheutzen shooters needed, but for a heavily recoiling hunting rifle they are just ornament.

    http://www.trackofthewolf.com/List/Item.aspx/696/1

  7. #7
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    none of my perch belly stocks have or had those large hook type butt plates. i make a shotgun type butt plate out of brass or iron and even buffalo horn. but i guess im not the expert in different schools.just build them to fit right and shoot with out adjusting once on the shoulder. do the same and you will be happy.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check