RotoMetals2Lee PrecisionInline FabricationTitan Reloading
MidSouth Shooters SupplyRepackboxADvertise hereWideners

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 80

Thread: Lyman Spartan Refurb

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Fredericksburg, virginia
    Posts
    667

    Lyman Spartan Refurb

    I just bought this old Lyman Spartan press for light duty work. I'm going to strip it down for refurb and repaint. Does anyone have suggestions, tips or ideas I should consider when I do this? I've read where someone cut a groove for a hairpin spring to hold the shell holder like modern presses, rather than the set screw. I may do that. I may get a new primer arm from Lyman, maybe a feeder tube. What else should I do while its apart?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-l1600.jpg 
Views:	76 
Size:	48.1 KB 
ID:	155719   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s-3.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	82.1 KB 
ID:	155720   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	s2.jpg 
Views:	74 
Size:	46.3 KB 
ID:	155721  

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    6,232
    When I rebuilt a press long ago, I was going to have the ram chrome plated (never got around to it). My figgerin' was that plating would add a few thousandths to the diameter (to possibly take up some slop in the ram/frame fit) and provide a smooth hard surface to eliminate future wear...
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master

    gwpercle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Baton Rouge, Louisiana
    Posts
    5,239
    CH4D has replacement universal rams that have the "snap in shell holder feature and priming arms.
    Check out their site, they helped me get two presses back in business. An Eagle Cobra 300 and a Lyman All American Turret from the late 1950's.
    Lyman may not carry all the parts you want/need but CH4D still has the universal replacement parts and can tell you if they are correct.
    My very first press was a Spartan, bought it in 1968 and it had a snap in shell holder, so yours may date back to the 1950's....Nice Score.
    Gary

  4. #4
    Boolit Master Ole Joe Clarke's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    765
    Quote Originally Posted by mdi View Post
    When I rebuilt a press long ago, I was going to have the ram chrome plated (never got around to it). My figgerin' was that plating would add a few thousandths to the diameter (to possibly take up some slop in the ram/frame fit) and provide a smooth hard surface to eliminate future wear...
    When a shaft is chrome plated for repair, the repair shop will grind or turn down the surface to be repaired before plating. It also removes bad areas in the surface. This allows them to plate to a thickness that they can grind back down to the finished dimensions.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Fredericksburg, virginia
    Posts
    667
    I've got a lathe, so I should be able to cut the existing ram for the hairpin spring. But it's good to know there may be a source of parts if needed. Thanks.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy Lagamor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Wichita, KS
    Posts
    209
    What color are you going to go with? I've seen some in bright orange that I really like.

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    North Dakota
    Posts
    303
    Find someone that can bead blast the whole thing it will surprise you how clean it will come out. Just take it apart then bead blast the parts they will look like new . Paint it . Good luck!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master DaveInFloweryBranchGA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    2,701
    When you paint, use primer. It'll turn out better long term.

  9. #9
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    near Horicon Marsh in southern Wi
    Posts
    287
    I just refurbished my early 1970's Spartan. I bead blasted it, primed it, and then painted it with Rustoleum "Hammered" grey. It looks great. If you use this type of paint, do NOT try and do a really good job by using a "clear" finish over the top!!! It will bubble and ruin the entire paint job. I also put a large nylon washer on each side of the ram handle to take up the slop.
    Good luck and have fun.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Fredericksburg, virginia
    Posts
    667
    Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have a bead blast cabinet and will be using it. I haven't decided on color yet, but the hammered gray sounds kind of nice. I'd kind of like to replace the handle bar grip with a ball. Has anyone done this? It would be nice to order one ready to bolt on, but I can modify something if needed.

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    dragon813gt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Somewhere in SE PA
    Posts
    9,552
    Quote Originally Posted by DaveInFloweryBranchGA View Post
    When you paint, use primer. It'll turn out better long term.
    You definitely want to primer it if you want the paint to last long term. Otherwise it comes off fairly easily. I've lightly returned a few RCBS pieces. I chemically stripped the paint, which is a mess. Then took a wire wheel to it to clean it up. A blasting cabinet would be great but I don't have one

    After that it's a coat of primer and two coats of paint. If you use Rustoleum go w/ a light coat. If not you will have drips and runs. You can't smooth out the paint so avoid them at all costs. I have a Spartan that gets no love sitting in my attic. Maybe one day I will get around to using it

  12. #12
    Boolit Grand Master
    Mk42gunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Butler, MO
    Posts
    6,300
    Call me weird, but I kind of like the set screw retaining feature on my Pacific Super C. It prevents the shell holder from turning so I can run the press almost without looking at the cases, i.e. the opening is always in the same place.

    When bead blasting, I would block any machined or threaded holes, no need for them to get any larger or rougher than they are now.

    You probably know this already, but another warning doesn't hurt. This time of year make sure the parts and paint are warm enough before spraying either the primer or paint. I would spray two light coats of primer, then as many light coats of paint as it takes to get a good finish.

    Also make sure the primer and paint are compatible.

    Not sure about the Lyman Spartan, but a lot of the C frame presses from that era used a ˝-20 thread to attach the operating handle.

    Robert

  13. #13
    Boolit Master flyingmonkey35's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Utah
    Posts
    1,240
    I'd sand blast it. Then powder coat it.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master

    LUCKYDAWG13's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Northern Illinois
    Posts
    3,168
    I would just use some steel wool and some Rem oil call it a day and use it
    kids that hunt and fish dont mug old ladies

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Fredericksburg, virginia
    Posts
    667
    Yes, I will block off the threads and any other machined surfaces. I've restored a number of machine tools. The hammered gray is a nice finish. I'm going to check the local craft/hobby shops for a wood ball for the handle. I think that would be a nice touch.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    seagiant's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Posts
    3,067
    Hi,
    Actually to do it right, all the unpainted metal would be slow rust blued!
    “If ye love wealth better than liberty, the tranquility of servitude better than the animating contest of freedom, go home from us in peace.
    We ask not your counsels or arms.
    Crouch down and lick the hands which feed you.
    May your chains set lightly upon you, and may posterity forget that ye were our countrymen.” -Samuel Adams
    Janet Reno, killed more children at Waco, with Bill Clinton's permission, than Adam Lanza killed, at Sandy Hook.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master Bazoo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    Cecilia, Kentucky
    Posts
    3,451
    Quote Originally Posted by LUCKYDAWG13 View Post
    I would just use some steel wool and some Rem oil call it a day and use it
    I like your style sir.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master flashhole's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Azle, TX
    Posts
    919
    seagiant beat me to it. Blue the metal handle and linkage and put a ball handle on it. Please post pics of your progress.
    ,,, stupidity comes to some people very easily. 8/22/2017 Pat Lengyel (my wife) in a discussion about Liberals.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master DaveInFloweryBranchGA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    2,701
    Quote Originally Posted by ndnchf View Post
    Thanks for your suggestions guys. I have a bead blast cabinet and will be using it. I haven't decided on color yet, but the hammered gray sounds kind of nice. I'd kind of like to replace the handle bar grip with a ball. Has anyone done this? It would be nice to order one ready to bolt on, but I can modify something if needed.
    If you have a tool/equipment rental place in your area that provides services to a manufacturing plant, it's likely they have the black plastic balls in stock that'll match the grey hammered paint you're planning on using. Ace Hardware also sells ball hands in the sizes mentioned. All you'd need to do is thread your handle on the lathe, black oxide all the unpainted parts and you'd be good to go.

    Probably be just as easy to sandpaper/emery cloth the handle clean while you have it on the lathe. Make sure and neutralize all the rust on the blued parts before you do any polishing with sandpaper or otherwise. BTW, if you bead blast the handle, it'll feel really rough to your hand/fingers when you're operating it, not a desireable thing.

    One last thought: Pride of ownership of something you've restored lasts far longer than any minor aggravations you have while restoring it properly to look like something instead of doing a quickie job. If in doubt, note Seagiant showing off that purty thing.

  20. #20
    Boolit Master DaveInFloweryBranchGA's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Georgia
    Posts
    2,701
    Quote Originally Posted by seagiant View Post
    Hi,
    Actually to do it right, all the unpainted metal would be slow rust blued!
    Purty, for sure.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check