Need tips to repair a a Luger Magazine

[offroader69]

I have a German luger that has both of the original magazines (labeled I and II). The wooden end on the I magazine is broke but I have all the pieces. It was glued once before and broke again. If I just glue it again I could probably put it back together but that would make the magazine unusable, it will eventually break again. What do you collectors out there recommend? Does anyone have any tips on how to fix the wooden piece.

[Merick]

I would soak the wood in acetone to remove the oil and carefully remove what glue I could, then re-glue the parts with acraglass jell, and give it one or two light coats of tru-oil before reassembly.

Matching magazines are pretty valuable so I'd either find someone in the area with some experience, or get some walnut scraps and practice a few times until you are handy with the materials and know you can get good results.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Are there any markings on the broken piece? I have seen some that had the serial number stamped into the wood, but also many that had no markings. If not, I'd just buy a newly made replacement. You really can't tell them from the original parts, and if it would have broken in German service that's what they would have done.

[offroader69]

Thanks Merick- I did some reading about acraglass jell and will give it a try.

Der Gebirgsjager- The piece is the original with the serial number and and additional I for the number 1. I have the identical number 2 or II magazine. I could purchase a reproduction but I think the all matching serial number pistol and magazines would loose some value.

[Der Gebirgsjager]

Well.....maybe yes, maybe no. But that's why I asked if there were any markings. AccraGlas Gel is wonderful stuff, and I've used it for some amazing stock repairs. It may hold up--probably will certainly hold up--unless the magazine is loaded to capacity. Then the follower spring is putting a lot of pressure on it, which, plus age and maybe impact is probably why it broke to start with. I'm certainly not criticizing your decision because Lugers with two numbered mags are pretty uncommon, and if it doesn't work out you can still go with the replacement. Best wishes on the repair job.
DG

P.S. If it becomes necessary to remove the cross pin at the base look it over carefully and think about how to do it, because they're usually in pretty tight and it's very easy to deform the thin walls of the mag when removing/replacing them.

[Bazoo]

I would suggest using a knife to relieve some wood from the inside of both pieces, then clean with acetone, and use J B weld between the pieces. Use acetone to clean up any jb weld that oozes out of the crack.

[S. Galbraith]

I would soak the wood in acetone to remove the oil and carefully remove what glue I could, then re-glue the parts with acraglass jell, and give it one or two light coats of tru-oil before reassembly.

Matching magazines are pretty valuable so I'd either find someone in the area with some experience, or get some walnut scraps and practice a few times until you are handy with the materials and know you can get good results.

That's some good advice. Keep it all original, and buy some additional mags to shoot the pistol with if you are interested in doing so.

[offroader69]

Thank you all for the tips

[Wayne Smith]

Tioghtbond III wood glue. You are repairing wood. Clean well and remove all other signs of glue, apply and clamp. Wipe off excess with wet towel.

[Alstep]

Seconds on tightbond III. The Franklin Co always made good glue. Aerolite glue is another excellent glue. The British developed it in WWII to glue their all wood fighter plane. Can't remember which one it was.
Can't go wrong with Brownell's accra either. The secret with any bonding agent is CLEANLINESS! If the joint isn't clean & free of all contaminates, there's no glue out there that's going to hold up.

[MtGun44]

Titebond 2 wood glue is EXTREMELY high strength and will leave much less of a glue line and
color than the epoxy of Acraglass. Removing all the previous glue and making a supporting
jig to clamp pieces firmly but lightly into proper position while drying is quite important. Titebond 2 is
literally stronger than the wood and I have put together all sorts of projects with it. Joints will
hold together in half an hour, full strength in 24 hours.