Riser Disks beneath Lee Key 7/8 Slugs?

[Y-man]

Hello Guys, I have a question: maybe someone has had some experience with this, or has some wise words to share?
When using the Lyman 525 - I got used to putting a Plastic disk [Or two] beneath the slug to raise the slug a bit and to prevent wad blowing into the cavity. It seems it has worked.

Now with the Lee Key Drive Slug [I just got a mold for it!] would using such a plastic disk [Or two] adversely affect performance? I seem to need to put the disks to raise the slug to enable it fit well in the Wad/ shotcup, and to enable a good height for the roll-crimping that I do.

I know that the 'key' enables the wad to positively engage the slug, while engaging the rifling to impart good spin [In a rifled barrel] and I know also that the 7/8 slug [Which is what I got.] is definitely nose-heavy and should perform well in a smoothbore too.
Remember - I am simply replacing birdshot with slugs. And for these now: I am also changing the Wads to WAA12-type wad [Bought 500 off Amazon on my last US Trip... It made for very good packaging material in my suitcases!]

I am using: in the shotcup:
* 1 pc Felt Disk
* Then 1 Thicker Plastic Disk
* Then a VERY Light Plastic Disk
* Then the Slug.

[Some shells I used the over-shot disk, and some I roll-crimped without the over-shot disk.]

So, will using the plastic disk[s] disturb this positive engagement of the slug? Or will the wad engage the disk via friction, which will in turn engage the 'key' of the slug, and the petals also will press into the slug sides while compressing into the rifling lands and grooves to impart spin stabilisation?

See Disks in picture below. Thicker ones from Bottle caps, thinner ones from Window blind material: more brittle.

[longbow]

Sorry Y-man, I can't help with the rifling/spin/skid and wad issue. Lee claims the drive key does engage the shotcup for positive spin and I suspect it does as the wads will try to extrude into HB slugs if not supported with nitro card wads or the like.

What I can say is that some of my wads failed at the drive key... too much engagement. Since I am using smoothbore I went with the nitro card wad under to prevent that and that solved the failed wad problem. I've actually forgotten what wad that was though. Might have been a poor fit or brand.

If you shoot the slugs without disks under try to recover some wads to see if they are in good shape or not. If so then you are fine.

If you are spacing the slugs up for good fit and are worried about skid without that drive key engagement you might try rolling the slugs under a coarse file to rough up the surface (basically knurled) so the shotcups grip them better. That should help.

You can also make the slugs a tighter fit by paper patching. Likely a single wrap or cross patches so adding twice the paper thickness to the slug. I've done both but again for smoothbore. Its pretty easy to add a paper tube to a shotcup or put cross patches on the slug as it goes into the shotcup. Thin tracing paper runs about 0.0015" IIRC so will give you about 0.003" larger.

Looking forward to your range results! You are getting quite the collection of moulds now!

Longbow

[Hogtamer]

The wad jams deeply into the slug without support under it. My results from rifled gun were not as good as with the Lyman 525. Look at the thread "custom wad for lee slug and see what A guy in the UK has done.....but he's not allowed rifled guns. I hope to duplicate that at some point.

[longbow]

Ya know... one of my thoughts of using the hot melt glue tail wads is for rifled guns to ensure good rifling engagement. The glue is tough, light and flexible, and recovered wads show that the glue pushes out making for full bore contact.

Forms are easily made from 1/2" CPVC pipe couplings bored out to suit. The biggest problem with Lee slugs is the taper they have. My 7/8 oz. are 0.682" at the nose and 0.665" at the base so way more taper than the wad petals have. The 1 oz. are a little bigger in both dimensions. With an added glue tail wad (or other flexible plastic) that will expand to engage rifling through the petals as well as serving to space the stubby little slug up to crimp height.

Our UK member may be on to something with his 3D printing of tail wads if a flexible plastic is available for 3D printing. The glue wads work and are tough but shrinkage and air bubbles are your enemy.

I was going to post a link to my slugs with glue tail wads but they look amateurish compared to BigMrTong's tail wads. I am being outclassed here! Again! But that's a good thing!

Longbow

[BigMrTong]

Appreciate the shout out Longbow

The first way forward for raising Lee slugs is deaf 20g Nitro cards as mentioned above. It works all the time in different wads and configure for me. Just the odd flyer when the card sticks up the slugs bum !

I have worked a lot with the 1oz version and have ordered the 7/8 today. I hear better things in general about it, and at the very least it will allow me to print a longer tail for it which I’m hoping will improve flight.

[Hogtamer]

BMT, a 20 ga hard card fits perfectly in the bottom of the wads I use but is marginally smaller than the base of the 7/8 slug. Thus your printed wad would need a taper from the base of slug to bottom of wad that difference for a perfect fit. Really, there is very little bearing surface at the greatest diameter of the slug in wad to actually engage the rifling. Perhaps that is why I don't see greater improvement from my rifled guns over my smoothbores with the Lee. Your unique design should be the ultimate test as to whether this can be a truly accurate slug. Can't wait for results!